How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

[Stumble]

I have also use pipe extractors to good effect. It's a hex piece of steel with a toothed cam that opens as you turn it. Put a big recent wrench and breaker bar and it will pop almost everything.

[Mojadito]

Any mechanical removal using force, bottle jack, levers, Etc will probably delaminate some fiberglass layers. Spray it with "Debond" wait several hours, spray it again and tomorrow it will come out with a minimum of effort.

[cabo_sailor]

I am also a debond disciple. Although I don't usually leave it overnight. Follow the directions to score the edge and spray. After about 20 min or so I spray again and squeeze in a thin bladed spreading tool or some plastic wedges. Give it another 20 min and the 5200 becomes brittle and gives up. Everyone I've loaned this to went out a bought a can. Even works on silicone.

Rich


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[jreiter190]

HACKSAW,K.I.S.S.

[Cthoops]

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. We actually missed a lot of these because we left for the Marina early this morning.

We took a suggestion from the Boat US article that was linked and stopped at Defender for some Northstar Un-hesive (the two West Marine stores near the marina didn't have Debond in stock).

Mr. Cthoops put a screwdriver in the edge of the backing plate and started tapping it in, moving it around as best he could. He then sprayed the Un-hesive and waited a bit. Then he hammered in the screwdriver under the backing plate in a few different spots, prying it up about 1/4" and sprayed more Un-hesive in there. More prying and hammering followed and it finally broke free.

Success!

Thanks again.

[Cthoops]

Originally Posted by Ann T. Cate

cthoops,

Uhh.... You should have a manual bilge pump, for when the electric one fails. So, won't you need a through hull fitting there? Or are you re-locating it?

Ann

Hi Ann,

This was actually the thruhull for the manual pump for the head. I should have been clearer. The setup for the manual bilge pump is still in place.

[GrahamHO]

Originally Posted by Cthoops

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. We actually missed a lot of these because we left for the Marina early this morning.

We took a suggestion from the Boat US article that was linked and stopped at Defender for some Northstar Un-hesive (the two West Marine stores near the marina didn't have Debond in stock).

Mr. Cthoops put a screwdriver in the edge of the backing plate and started tapping it in, moving it around as best he could. He then sprayed the Un-hesive and waited a bit. Then he hammered in the screwdriver under the backing plate in a few different spots, prying it up about 1/4" and sprayed more Un-hesive in there. More prying and hammering followed and it finally broke free.

Success
Thanks again.

Nothing you can't fix with a big hammer and a 15" Crescent.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Cthoops

We have five unused thruhulls, and the seacocks have come out of four of them with no problem. The fifth one is hanging tough. The other four didn't have backing plates, but this one does. It appears not to have been originally installed when the boat was made (1977 B29.9). It went to the manual overboard pumpout.

Mr. cthoops has already used the Dremel to get rid of the mushroom head on the thru hull. He thought it might be bolted through the hull from the inside, but after sanding down to the gelcoat he can't find any sign of a bolt. He's tried whacking on it with a hammer and it's not budging. Maybe it was installed with 5200?

We've thought about trying wire with dowels on either end to saw along the bottom of the seacock, and will give that a try tomorrow unless there are other, better options. Besides the C-4 of course.

Any suggestions?

Heat will break the 5200 bond. Apply a wet towel around the hull and heat it up CAREFULLY. You need to get to around 400 F.

If its in that tight - maybe just fill it with thickened epoxy?

Another way is to make a puller using threaded rod & a perfectly sized washer and a large socket to accommodate the port as it is pulled.

[Zach]

If I am removing one that will not be re-used and the seacock or ball valve is dead on arrival that a through hull wrench won't remove:

I just grind the mushroom head off with a 24 grit metal grinding disk. Once it gets hot enough to start smoking the 5200 or whatever bonding goop loses its grip.

Works the ticket, and makes it a one man job... Takes all of 5 minutes too.

Zach

[gbgreen59]

A Dremmel Tool with a graphite cutting disk can be used to remove the thru-hull lip. Then lift out the seacock from inside the hull. Bronze cuts easily with the graphite cutting wheel.

[GrahamHO]

Originally Posted by jacaranda

I solved this problem by using a hacksaw blade with 1 sided handle to saw thru in hull element of fitting to remove a section and then collapsing rest ot fitting with a good wallop of a hammer.

Likewise. And if a thicker blade for an electric hacksaw will fit down the hole, it will make a wider slot. You can make a hacksaw blade handle from a slotted piece of wooden dowel and a hose clip. When you use the big hammer hold a heavy block of wood opposite. I personally prefer that method rather heating.