Heaving Fro?

[SkiprJohn]

Every boat I've sailed will heave to with the jib backwinded, the main all the way out and nearly luffing. Tiller to leeward. Once you get it in that position then start adjusting tiller and main to maintain your heave to position.
JohnL

[Alan Wheeler]

On the subject of profiles, I wish that more members would take the opportunity to fill them in. I find them very helpful in trying to get to know the people behind the screen names.

Yes I agree.

I found the "art" of heaving too on my boat quite by accendent. Although I have never tried just the mizzen, sounds interesting Thomas. I have hove too in 20kts only so far. And it was only to stop the boat to pick up a swimmer. Both main and Genoa were up and sheeted in hard'ish. I brought the boat into the wind but didn't allow ti to tack across, thus stopping it's forward momentum. Then as the forward speed stops, the bow is pushed away from the wind of course. At that point I bring the "wheel" hard around so as the rudder is trying to turn the boat into the wind and the sail is pushing the bow off the wind and the boat justs sits there virtually stationary. Well, in actual fact, it kinda makes slight forward way. As the rudder loses water flow, the head of the boat is pushed off and the sail works pulling the boat forward and as the water flow is re-established, the rudder then tries to steer the boat back up into the wind which means the sail loses drive again. I can't see how I would want to let the sails off. It would be better to have them sheeted in.
So have I done it correctly????????
I am not sure how using the mizzen would work, but I will try it. I am also not sure if the main helps, but the headsail certainly has the biggest affect on swinging the boat away.

[Raven]

As you say, Alan, it is essentially an exercise of setting up competing forces. For most boats, it involves a backwinded jib to drive the bow off the wind and a rudder hard over to turn it back into the wind. Some boats heave to better than others. We all need to fine-tune the particulars of those competing forces for our individual boats.

dghall, if you've got lee helm on your boat when properly sheeted, that doesn't sound like a good thing . . .

[dana-tenacity]

If you are heaving to as a storm tactic you will not want to ease the main, it will flog itself to death. The idea as stated earlier is to balance forces and stop the boat at an angle around 45' to the true wind. Each boat will be different and the situation will change as wind and sea state alter. Practice.
Many modern boats (Santana 22 ) have practically no forefoot so just about any sail forward of the mast is too much, hence the suggestion to try no headsail at all.

[patio]

Originally Posted by Raven

As you say, Alan, it is essentially an exercise of setting up competing forces. For most boats, it involves a backwinded jib to drive the bow off the wind and a rudder hard over to turn it back into the wind. Some boats heave to better than others. We all need to fine-tune the particulars of those competing forces for our individual boats.

dghall, if you've got lee helm on your boat when properly sheeted, that doesn't sound like a good thing . . .

Raven

so how do you set up for heaving to?

i have the same model as you. thanks

[Raven]

Originally Posted by patio

Raven

so how do you set up for heaving to?

i have the same model as you. thanks

My PSC34 is configured as a sloop, while most of them have been rigged as cutters (perhaps making mine different from yours).
When I heave to, it's pretty standard. With main sheeted tight, tack while not releasing the headsail and taking care not to cross the wind too quickly. Once on the opposite tack, leave the jib backwinded and put the wheel hard over to windward.

[dghall]

Ok, if I am needing to heave to to reef the main, I cant imagine trying to do that while it's sheeted all the way out. Am I missing something?

Raven, what are the dangers of a boat with lee helm? And is the only way to correct it with a much smaller headsail?

[dghall]

One more thing...

I have hank jibs, not a roller. Maybe if my only real "reefing" option is to just drop the jib, I should seriously consider investing in a roller for reasons other than convenience?

Thanks again for all the great wisdom!

David

[dana-tenacity]

DG, go practice first before spending money, hanks are fine on your boat. What's wrong with dropping the headsail to the deck, undo the halyard and it falls down.
I find the easiest way to reef is going upwind, just ease the mainsheet and reef. If you are going too fast for comfort and have a roller take in some headsail first.

[Raven]

Originally Posted by dghall

Raven, what are the dangers of a boat with lee helm? And is the only way to correct it with a much smaller headsail?

A few degrees of weather helm is generally considered a desireable characteristic. In a puff it is much safer if the tendancy is to round up and luff rather than bearing off with the increased potential for a knock-down.

A well balanced helm is primarily a characteristic of the boat's design. Altering the "helm" may be as simple as raking the mast aft a bit, or as complex as moving the mast. Without getting into the specifics in this post, I've located an article by yacht designer Ted Brewer that might be helpful to you. In it, the author lists the following as remedies for lee helm:

To correct lee helm (shorten lead)
* Increase mast rake by lengthening headstay, shortening backstay
* Move headstay aft, or shorten bowsprit
* Move mast aft
* Lengthen boom and fit larger mainsail; ditto with mizzen
* Adjust main to greater fullness
* Move centerboard forward, if possible.

To read the full article, click here: On Helm Balance

[dghall]

Dana,

When I douse the head, it's never just releasing the halyward and down it comes. On my boat I always end up on the foredeck pulling it as it luffs wildly. Just thinking about doing that in wind and waves as a reef is a little nervewracking, but I will figure something out. Other than that, I actually appreciate the hanks and the ability to pick a sail that matches the weather each time I go out.

d

[cal40john]

Put a downhaul on your jib. Tie a light line to the head or top hank, lead it inside the rest of the hanks to a block on the bow, then aft to the cockpit or mast. Release the halyard and pull on the downhaul, cleat it off and the sail can't ride up the forestay.

John

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha d,
You've certainly gotten a lot of replies and advice. You have a light, responsive boat. Next time you go out try going close hauled, then come about without releasing your soon to be windward jib sheet, let the boat slow to nearly a stop. Put your helm to lee (tiller to leeward) and ease out your mainsail until nearly luffing. Once you get the boat hove to you can experiment with adjusting rudder angles and sheeting in the main. When you want to tuck in a reef just haul in on the main sheet until you can reach whatever you need to to take in your reef. If you experiment and refine this tactic you'll be able to tuck in your reef single handed no problem. I used to do it with my Catalina 22 in good breeze and lots of chop. I didn't have a furler and didn't have any halyards led to the cockpit. Just an old simple rig.
Good luck.
JohnL

[cooper]

A lot of boats will do a simple "version" of hove to by backing a small jib versus hard across helm, and nothing else. (storm jib) nice and simple and very little windage.

[patio]

Raven,
mines a cutter. but that won't prevent me from trying your set up. and also try with the stay sail on the inner stay, also

thanks.