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Old 18-06-2018, 01:00   #1
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Cuxhaven to IJmuiden

First time heading out of the Baltic. Will be passing through Kiel in a few days and will stage out of Cuxhaven for a few days while some high winds pass through the north sea.

Wondering if anyone has any tips for the passage from Cuxhaven to IJmuiden? Looking at the chart Cuxhaven out the river Elbe looks to be tight and challenging, how to people navigate this (as i understand the German authorities are very strict with the rules). e.g. do people head out of cuxhaven, turn to port and head NW just outside the channel or do you cross and head out on the other side, only to cross the channel again? Then South of the TSS?

I also understand that a W-NW wind against tide creates some exciting times coming out of the Elbe but what about North winds when transiting the Frisian Islands?

Anyone's experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers
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Old 18-06-2018, 06:05   #2
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Re: Cuxhaven to IJmuiden

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will stage out of Cuxhaven for a few days while some high winds pass through the north sea.
If you stay some days in Cuxhaven consider a visit to the Hapag-Hallen (https://hapaghalle-cuxhaven.de/en/), highly recommended!

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Wondering if anyone has any tips for the passage from Cuxhaven to IJmuiden? Looking at the chart Cuxhaven out the river Elbe looks to be tight and challenging, how to people navigate this (as i understand the German authorities are very strict with the rules). e.g. do people head out of cuxhaven, turn to port and head NW just outside the channel or do you cross and head out on the other side, only to cross the channel again? Then South of the TSS?
Both is possible. Many are sailing/motoring NW just outside the channel. But be VERY careful not to veer to far e.g. when passing 'Scharhörn'. It's getting shallow very fast.

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what about North winds when transiting the Frisian Islands?
In the 'Küstenzone' there is enough space between TSS and the islands. As you are transiting it's no issue, but let me mention nevertheless: with strong winds one cannot always enter the 'Seegatts' (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gat_(landform)).
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Old 20-06-2018, 15:00   #3
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Re: Cuxhaven to IJmuiden

I'm afraid I can't add more to that other than....enjoy. The kiel canal is a great journey. Really enjoyable.
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Old 20-06-2018, 15:47   #4
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Re: Cuxhaven to IJmuiden

I've done this several times.

The Elbe is no big deal -- depart the ship channel near the mouth and go to the NW along the shoals outside of the channel. Then you can follow the ITZ along the whole coast. Stay 1 mile away from the edge of the TSS because the Germans are really strict about that.

The main thing about dealing with the Elbe is to get the tide right -- the current in the Elbe is brutal, especially on the ebb. Don't go out in a NW gale, especially on the ebb -- the sea state can be horrendous. And leave the ship channel as soon as you can -- the Elbe approaches are radar controlled and the traffic can be hairy.

The ITZ is unpleasant and complicated -- there is a lot of fishing by boats not showing AIS and sometimes not showing lights, and there are a couple of wind farms which may or may not be on your chart, and some oil installations. It takes a very sharp watch. It's not very practical to break this up into day sails as there aren't any really convenient harbors along the way -- the Frisians are barrier islands in very shallow water and shifting sands, and the only ports are on the back side of some of them, accessed through shallow gatts. If you must go into one of these, use Norderney and avoid Borkum.

Why are you going to Ijmuiden? Unless you need to go there, I would avoid it. Den Helder is far nicer, and is less expensive to boot. Den Helder -- kind of a Dutch Portsmouth -- is a nice stop with a fantastic museum, and the town is nice. Ijmuiden is a s****hole with absolutely nothing there, and hours by bus to Amsterdam if you want to go there.

I would also strongly recommend considering going through the inland waterways -- cut in behind Vlieland and go into the Waddenzee, then into the Ijsselmeer, where a whole world awaits you with great stops like Harlingen and Enkhuizen (a fantastic open-air museum), and basically lake sailing -- a nice break from the brutal North Sea. You end up in Amsterdam -- stay at Sixhaven almost in the center of the city. Then as you pass through the Nordzeekanal, pass Ijmuiden right by

For leaving the Elbe, another variant is to go to Helgoland for the cheapest booze and cheapest diesel fuel in Europe. It's an interesting island altogether and worth a visit. For this, you will leave the Elbe channels to stb rather than to port, and navigate around the back of that big bank -- forgot the name, but it will be obvious on the chart. Then just pop over, avoiding the marine nature preserve to the W of the main approach channel. You can anchor in the harbor, but the berthing is cheap and friendly. if you go to Helgoland, leave with full water tanks because fresh water is not available except from the ship watering station.

From Helgoland, if you are going to the UK, use the TSS and stay in it the whole way to Dover.

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.
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Old 21-06-2018, 02:47   #5
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Re: Cuxhaven to IJmuiden

Thanks for the comments everyone!

Did the Canal yesterday and then made our way up to Cuxhaven. There is a strong pressure system moving through which will bring some strong winds through the weekend, so i'm glad we made it here and can sit tight for awhile.

The Canal was excellent, really enjoyed it. Even got to see a German marine Helo flying below tree tops, over the river (decided to go under the bridge not over).

The information i have on the inland waterways is a bit 'so so'. I think we draft a bit too much (1.8) to do them so i think we stick to going around the outside.

Also appreciate the comment about Den Helder. We were trying to make it to Amsterdam to take some flights for work but with the weather this weekend we will miss that and depart from Germany.

Also learned some good lessons about the tide yesterday... but managed in the end. Thanks everyone for the advice! Much appreciated.
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Old 21-06-2018, 03:04   #6
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Re: Cuxhaven to IJmuiden

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. .. The information i have on the inland waterways is a bit 'so so'. I think we draft a bit too much (1.8) to do them so i think we stick to going around the outside...
You can go through the entire route using the "Standing Mast Route", entering I believe at the Ems river, and going all the way to Vlissingen. I don't know the maximum draft for that.

But in any case you can go outside via the ITZ from Cuxhaven as far as Vlieland, and then take the inland seas -- Waddensee, Ijsselmeer, and Markermeer -- as far as Amsterdam with no problem with almost any draft. We did it a few times with our 2.4 meters. It's much more interesting than the monotonous North Sea Coast of Holland. And if you are going to Amsterdam then it is also shorter, as otherwise you need to go into Ijmuiden and backtrack through the Nordzeekanal.
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"You sea! I resign myself to you also . . . . I guess what you mean,
I behold from the beach your crooked inviting fingers,
I believe you refuse to go back without feeling of me;
We must have a turn together . . . . I undress . . . . hurry me out of sight of the land,
Cushion me soft . . . . rock me in billowy drowse,
Dash me with amorous wet . . . . I can repay you."
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Old 22-06-2018, 01:50   #7
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Re: Cuxhaven to IJmuiden

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You can go through the entire route using the "Standing Mast Route", entering I believe at the Ems river, and going all the way to Vlissingen. I don't know the maximum draft for that.
1.80 should work. Acc. my chart in the first part (Delfzijl to Lauwersmeer) there is one area south of Zoutkamp with has 1.70 where you might scratch the mud a bit. From the Lauwersmeer to Leeuwarden minimal depth is 1.95. I know people who passed with 1.80 but it is also a quite long (maybe boring with time) channel passage with many bridges; I passed two times but wouldn't do it with 1.80 m without more exact info. Leeuwarden might be interesting as it is the European Capital of Culture this year and has nice moorings in the city center.

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But in any case you can go outside via the ITZ from Cuxhaven as far as Vlieland, and then take the inland seas -- Waddensee, Ijsselmeer, and Markermeer -- as far as Amsterdam with no problem with almost any draft. We did it a few times with our 2.4 meters. It's much more interesting than the monotonous North Sea Coast of Holland. And if you are going to Amsterdam then it is also shorter, as otherwise you need to go into Ijmuiden and backtrack through the Nordzeekanal.
+1. Enkhuizen and Hoorn are particularly colorful/historic little towns worth visiting. As mentioned by Dockhead the Sixhaven in Amsterdam is good/central. And a.o. there is a rather new Amsterdam Marina a bit further out (free public ferries to the center) which I like a lot too.
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