Two bowers, one on the roller, the other stowed in the bilge
Two kedges, one in a locker readily accessible from the deck with a rode
ready to attach, and the other in the bilge
with another rode
ready to attach.
The kedges are best danforths... for the weight this type of anchor
has the greatest holding power... They will be essential for kedging off in the event of grounding, and must be able to be deployed quickly, from that hard dink I recommended.
For a boat between 30-34 ft LOA displacing 5-8 tons the following sizes of anchors and chain and rode suffice...
Storm Anchor 66# Bruce or fisherman(Paul Luke)
Bower Anchor 44# Bruce
Kedge 24 # Danforth
Chain 3/8" BBB or 5/16 HiTest
Rode 5/8" nylon
Hull, Deck, Rig
The Hull must be sound... if it is not, nothing else matters...
The Deck must be sound if it is not, nothing else matters... Don't be like the couple I knew, who spent lavishly on fancy plaster work and wall coverings for their new house, while neglecting the leak prone roof... Shortly after the interior
was complete, it rained, and rained and destroyed the fancy interior...
First you fix the hull, then you fix the deck, then you do whatever is necessary to ensure the two are bonded together with a leak proof joint... Don't be like Hal Roth in Whisper, who suffered major losses from leaks
at the hull-deck joint together with sodden bedding, ruined books
, not to mention the discomfort, until finally after 2 major cruises, he bonded the deck to the hull with 6 layers of cloth and resin.... inside and out...and solved
The rig must be sound... since all the boats we are discussing here are over 20 years old, it is virtually certain the standing rigging
must be replaced... Call NewFound Metals in Washington
State and get a set of bronze sockets in the size appropriate for your boat.. most likely you will want ones with eyes, since you will be using jaw and jaw turnbuckles, and the tangs on the mast
likely have been pinned for eye terminations. You will save money by buying
all the wire on a roll. See Cruising Rigs and Rigging
By Ralph Naranjo for details on fluxing and pouring the molten Zinc into the sockets to secure the 1X19 SS wire.
Once you have dealt with hull, deck, and rig, you can go on to other things...
Lifeline Stanchions.. should be through bolted with backing plates
the size of the stanchion bases on the opposite side, and with hardwood blocks between the GRP layers if the deck is sandwiched... On many boats you will have to use a hole saw to cut through the bottom layer to remove the balsa core
, and a thick resiin like T88 to bond the hardwood block to the tiop GRP layer and several layers of cloth on the bottom to reseal the whole shebang..
... fortget the plastic covering... go with a larger size wire terminate them with eyes so you can use lanyards to connect them to the pulpits, in an adjustable manner.
... look over the step careffully... on boats this old quite often moisture has entered the framing for the step and is soft.. this must be replaced... If the mast heel is in really bad shape, you may have to cut a section off, and adjust the step accordingly.
... if you are on a really tight budget, there won't be any.. Otherwise use 5 conductor to provide wiring
for the masthead tricolor, masthead anchor, mid mast steaming, and spreader/deck light, they can have a common ground... Note that the windex has no wiring...
Running rigging... plan on replacing all of it,. and sufficient spare line must be in the locker to replace it later. Use minimum 7/16 for sheets
, as that is the minimum size comfortable to the hand for working sails, and lighter stuff for drifters and light air sails...
Boom and gooseneck... examine this carefully and R&R or replace worn out parts
Sails... go over these carefully, they are your engine... fiz faulty stitching, find used replacements
for those beyond salvage
drains... our minimum cruiser will have two or more of these... they must be at least 1.5" in diameter, and clear, and in good condition... fix these before any other plumbing
Tiller and rudder
fittings... check and replace worn parts, buy a spare tiller and ensure it fits the head
so replacement at sea is quick and easy. Our minimum cruiser will not have a wheel
... swing it.. make a deviation table... get a copy of Bowditch and learn how it is done...check the wiring for the light, ensure the light works, get a spare lamp for the light, wire this up to a dry cell battery box
unless you have house batteries.... our minimum cruiser will not have either engine or house batteries, or house wiring...
... get a copy of Duttons or Bowditch... learn to take bearings with your hand bearing compass
and to plot your position on a chart... practice with your sextant
, learn to adjust your sextant
... learn to plot sun, moon, planet, and star sights.. This is one of your foundation skills... you must be proficient...