Ceram-kote marine reviews.

[amphibious1]

Aloha all
I am getting ready to go back in water soon. So I was going to freshen up the bottom paint. Then I saw another one of my cat but a older one with some blistering. Knock on wood i dont have any. But as a preventive measure I am going to pull all the Botten paint and do a epoxy barrier coat then Botten paint. I researched and found interlux 2000e. But at $90. a gal with a recommendation of 4to5 coats to get 10mils that adds up to 7or 8 gal.

A very knowledgeable guy in the yard uses ceram-kote all the time. It's about $100 a gal but 1coat gets you 10 mils and 2 gal will be more than enough. I have done google search and found the company the stuff is for ship hulls and oil rigs originally and has never caught on in the yacht world.
So does any one have any ACTUAL results using it on there boats??
Thanks for your info.
Jack



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[Stevens 47]

There are a different formulations of it. I used it as a coating inside the epoxy fuel tanks I built as an added barrier. I have seen it used in the boat yard where I work. What I would be concerned about is its very hard. You use the interlux product while it is green to get a chemical bond. I would suppose you could do the same with ceram-kote. The stuff is hard as nails my concern would be the difficulty in sanding and getting a good tooth on subsequent boat painting. From my understanding it is used in the petrol chemical industry allot.

[model 10]

I to used it in a gas tank but as a sloshing sealer. It was way to thin to get a 10mil coat to stick to a vertical surface. As said above, they must have more than one formulation.
I remember talking to a tech person at the factory because I was using it in an airplane gas tank and I had to approve it's use. Could they tell you if it would work in hot salt water?

[squarerigger]

Historical vessels may not be germane but a coating was applied to the 1898 steam ferry Berkeley (steel hull) about 13 years ago, the 1863 bark Star of india (wrought iron hull) about 7 years ago, and the Swift boat PCF 816 (aluminum hull) about two years ago. In each case the material adhesion has been flawless and any galvanic activity has been reduced to almost unmeasurable amount. Zinc replacement went from a matter for moths to years, perhaps decades. Coating thickness varied from 70 mils to 110 mils depending on application. Any voids or occlusions were filled with cream grout. The material proved perfectly good to apply antifouling on to. Having said that, I suggest that you might not want to put it on if you think you may ever want to get it off.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by squarerigger

Historical vessels may not be germane but a coating was applied to the 1898 steam ferry Berkeley (steel hull) about 13 years ago, the 1863 bark Star of india (wrought iron hull) about 7 years ago, and the Swift boat PCF 816 (aluminum hull) about two years ago. In each case the material adhesion has been flawless and any galvanic activity has been reduced to almost unmeasurable amount. Zinc replacement went from a matter for moths to years, perhaps decades. Coating thickness varied from 70 mils to 110 mils depending on application. Any voids or occlusions were filled with cream grout. The material proved perfectly good to apply antifouling on to. Having said that, I suggest that you might not want to put it on if you think you may ever want to get it off.

Absolutely love the diversity of knowledge found here.... Good stuff squarerigger!

[amphibious1]

Ok so yes they make lots of formulas. The 99m is for marine use.
That is crazy how it protected the historic vessels. I spoke with the FL rep to day. He told me all about it. It is $112 a gallon and one gallon will cover a 110sqft 10mill thick. It is 85% ceramic rolls, brushes or sprays on with no issues. It will flex without cracking and the moister penetration rating at 10mill is virtually none. You can pick colors and 10mill will improve hull strength greatly. It is covering most of the oil rigs in the gulf. I asked what is the down side he said (as some posted above) don't put it any where you don't want it on forever!!! He said a 7inch grinder with 60 grit paper will only last for about 1sqft. Before the sand paper is dead. So looks like I will be ordering some in the next couple weeks. I am still open to people's stories of usage tho.
One thing that I don't understand is why would anyone use other barrier coat that are more work and more money. This stuff has been in industry use for 15+years??

Thanks for the input so far.


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[Stevens 47]

Originally Posted by amphibious1

Ok so yes they make lots of formulas. The 99m is for marine use.
That is crazy how it protected the historic vessels. I spoke with the FL rep to day. He told me all about it. It is $112 a gallon and one gallon will cover a 110sqft 10mill thick. It is 85% ceramic rolls, brushes or sprays on with no issues. It will flex without cracking and the moister penetration rating at 10mill is virtually none. You can pick colors and 10mill will improve hull strength greatly. It is covering most of the oil rigs in the gulf. I asked what is the down side he said (as some posted above) don't put it any where you don't want it on forever!!! He said a 7inch grinder with 60 grit paper will only last for about 1sqft. Before the sand paper is dead. So looks like I will be ordering some in the next couple weeks. I am still open to people's stories of usage tho.
One thing that I don't understand is why would anyone use other barrier coat that are more work and more money. This stuff has been in industry use for 15+years??

Thanks for the input so far.


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Could be a bit of an issue if your bottom paint will not stick to it. The rep out here in SD was marketing it as a bottom paint being so hard and slick that it would not foul. I can't buy that except maybe as a hard racing bottom that you clean once a week.

[amphibious1]

The rep and the guys in the yard said you have 24hr to put on the Bottom paint. But it's best to do when it is a little tacky. After 24 it has a very slick finish so you would need to lightly sand. That is why they tried to use it as a bottom paint but you would still need to dive it every 2 weeks or so. That a deal breaker for most people. I will still use bottom paint.


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[HappyMdRSailor]

Our resident "resin head" minaret has been extremely scarce lately... He is the guru of all things sticky, glassy, painty, and about 10,000 other areas of expertise... Try a PM to him and see what he thinks???

It really sounds like a win, but I'd hate to be making a major mistake with a little well reasoned advice...

(If he's MIA and doesn't get back to you, lemme know... I have other contact methods for him)

Cruisers & Sailing Forums - View Profile: minaret

[amphibious1]

Thank you happymdsailor I have sent him a pm.


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[squarerigger]

When we applied the Ceramkote to Star of India we applied two coats of hard vynl bottom paint right after (ProLine). It adhered just fine and remained effective for the period we anticipated. Its no longer effective, but the hard smooth surface if the Ceramkote now probably makes it easier to remove accumulated growth, which we do every two years just before we sail.

[amphibious1]

Thanks for all the great information on this. Looks like I will give it a try.



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