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16-04-2006, 05:11
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#46
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cruiser
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllAboutMe
You REALLY don't want to pull your sole out and try to lay in a new one. Leveling is almost impossible, and getting it out without damaging the work you've already done would also be impossible.
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No offense, but are you being serious here? I'm already done, and it looks 10x better than the original. The original was sloppy. Crooked cuts, large gaps between boards, etc... The new sole looks perfect. In fact, since I lined up not only the holly stripes, but the grain as well, it looks like it was crafted from a single piece of wood.
Replacing a cabin sole is easy... very easy. Especially if you use a natural drying oil like Tung. It creates a polymerized surface, just like a commercial product, but does so without the use of chemicals. The oil is unstable in oxygen, and polymer chains form when the oxygen reacts with it. This is what creates the protective layer when using this stuff.
Now varnishing on the other hand... THAT is a pain in the *ss!
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16-04-2006, 10:02
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#47
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Richmond,Va; boat berthed in Deltaville,Va
Boat: Columbia 10.7. 35’
Posts: 121
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Me? Serious?
Sean,
Your experience, thankfully, was totally opposite mine.
Did you pull the sublaminate as well as the old teak and holly? Mine came out as a unit, and re-installing was a real pain. Levelling took forever, and there are still high spots that hide all sorts of bothersome squeaks.
Glad your's worked out for you. Maybe when you're running in the black, you can come redo mine for me?
Larry Wilson
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16-04-2006, 17:32
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#48
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cruiser
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,525
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Hi Larry,
Sounds like we are talking apples and oranges. I had a simple laminated teak and holly cabin sole. I just took out all the old ones, traced them onto new 4x8 sheets (and accounted for some bad original cuts), then tossed the old and placed the new in. No sub-laminate or anything. My soles rest mostly on stringers that run fore and aft (could have the wrong terminology here). Holding them up over some long runs are aluminum cross-members. I didn't have to level a thing, nor could I have without major modifications to the stringers. Your setup sounds like it might be different?
Maybe I got lucky.
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27-04-2006, 06:00
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#49
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: nyc/chesapeake
Boat: gozzard 44
Posts: 320
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Sole coating
Sean,
Check out www.duratec, we have their Clear Hi-Gloss Topcoat on our Gozzard. Tricky to apply but a very high gloss, hard, non-slippery coating that stands up well to hard use.
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27-04-2006, 06:40
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#50
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
Boat: Tayana 37, M-20/I-20 Scow
Posts: 250
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Sean ---
Tung oil on your sole?
Go to any maritime museum and ask them what was the 'black paint' they used on those old ships. The usual answer is "thats not black paint its old Tung Oil". Tung Oil or any other vegatble oil will eventually oxidize and eventually turn dark, then black over (long) time; plus, it gets slippery as hell when wet.
I prefer: "ultimate Sole" - WONDERFUL stuff.
regards
RichH
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28-04-2006, 18:05
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#51
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cruiser
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,525
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Not true at all... you should read up on the various oils. Linseed does indeed darken over time. Check out ancient Chinese furniture from say... the Ming dynasty. Looks as light today as it did when it was built. Tung oil absolutely does not darken over time.
It does oxidize, but that is exactly what polymerizes it during the first few hours while it's drying. After that, it forms a hard surface that seals out dirt, water, and all the other junk you find on a cabin sole.
I spilled stove black on the holy stripe the other day... was scared to death... but it wiped right off with a dry paper towel.
I know people hate to learn about traditional and ancient ways of dealing with common problems. Especially with the oil man selling you heat and transportation, the grocery/food factory selling you food, and the varnish companies selling you the next "miracle finish", but in reality... all you ever need has been provided by nature.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richhh
Sean ---
Tung oil on your sole?
Go to any maritime museum and ask them what was the 'black paint' they used on those old ships. The usual answer is "thats not black paint its old Tung Oil". Tung Oil or any other vegatble oil will eventually oxidize and eventually turn dark, then black over (long) time; plus, it gets slippery as hell when wet.
I prefer: "ultimate Sole" - WONDERFUL stuff.
regards
RichH
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20-08-2009, 19:54
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#52
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssullivan
Not true at all... you should read up on the various oils. Linseed does indeed darken over time. Check out ancient Chinese furniture from say... the Ming dynasty. Looks as light today as it did when it was built. Tung oil absolutely does not darken over time.
It does oxidize, but that is exactly what polymerizes it during the first few hours while it's drying. After that, it forms a hard surface that seals out dirt, water, and all the other junk you find on a cabin sole.
I spilled stove black on the holy stripe the other day... was scared to death... but it wiped right off with a dry paper towel.
I know people hate to learn about traditional and ancient ways of dealing with common problems. Especially with the oil man selling you heat and transportation, the grocery/food factory selling you food, and the varnish companies selling you the next "miracle finish", but in reality... all you ever need has been provided by nature.
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ssullivan,
How is your sole holding up?
Are you still happy with Tung Oil?
Going to be finishing my Maple floor and thought I'd ask.
Could it be used on Maple?
Thanks,
Extemp.
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22-08-2009, 08:34
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#53
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cat herder, extreme blacksheep
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: furycame alley , tropics, mexico for now
Boat: 1976 FORMOSA yankee clipper 41
Posts: 18,967
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i use lemon oil, i use orange oil and i use teak oil on my boat---teak is not a blonde wood--is a dark red brown woood...i have a real teak and holly sole. i clean all my teak with salt water--it gets out any grease or dirt--then i oil it by hand rubbing the oil into the wood. i am gentle on my floorings as i donot wish to slide or slip on it --is dangerous. i will not use a hard finish as i respect my wood and i will not use a sander on it. mine have chunks and dings--makes them just have more character----i removed and replaced a 600 pound engine---and there are more character marks...a boat is for using--mine is not for display purposes--is for cruising---i like the little dings and dents in my real wood and i will not trade those dings and dents for any veneer or imitation teak and holly slippery slidey stuff for any reason........my boat is not new--is old and has much character...i love her......nothing can replace the old aged teak and holly under any circumstances--but then, i am just me and my boat is well-used.......
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