Bowsprit replacement?

[barnakiel]

Maybe a solid piece of teak could do?

Then again, why not a carbon/foam composite? Your boat may hobby horse less.

b.

[Jolly Roger]

It’s been exactly a month since my last post, when I broke my left leg on the boat. I haven’t be able to even visit the boat because I’m recuperating in North Carolina. When I get back I’m going to try to repair the sprit, and if that’s not successful I will have to buy or laminate a complete new piece.
I found something better than a peg leg. This scooter gets me round faster, especially down hill.
JR.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Nice update JR!

Like your ride... But you seem to be missing the drink holder option!

[Jolly Roger]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

Nice update JR!
Like your ride... But you seem to be missing the drink holder option!

I knew there was something missing!
But you’re not supposed to drink and drive are you?

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

I knew there was something missing!
But you’re not supposed to drink and drive are you?

There's a distinction between "not supposed to" and "illegal"... For argument's sake let's assume this vehicle is utilized strictly on private property... That would be my argument anyway...

[Schooner Chandlery]

It's hollow? I'd probably use that as justification for making a new bowsprit. Try to make sure you get tight grained old-growth Douglas Fir. Also that's its properly dried since it will shrink a bit if not. Our bowsprit is the original Douglas Fir one from 1931. Laminated (way back then) 11ft and laminated but only has a couple tiny Dutchman repairs where an anchor has bit into it. On the east coast, you might find another tight grained wood more easily, not sure. Try to buy from a shop that sells to boatbuilders--such a shop will know what you need and hopefully not send you something that's not tight grained. Best of luck! If you need a Florida-based wooden boatwright, send me a PM since I know of one I think I can link you up with.

[Jolly Roger]

Hello folks, here is the latest on the bowsprit and broken leg.
We came back to the boat two months to the day since my fall. I can walk a bit, but I'm in no fit state to start building, or repairing, a ten foot long bowsprit.
I did manage to chop quite a bit more rotten wood out of it, and the general consensus on the dock is that I should now replace the whole spar.
I cannot consider laminating one myself in my present condition, so I must find someone who can make a new solid spar.
Can anyone therefore direct me to a supplier of either straight grained Douglas Fir, or dry spruce, who could machine it into a one piece sprit.
If I can get one made, I think with help I could remove the pulpit and anchor rollers, and install the new spar.
It never rains eh.....
JR

[Time2Go]

Geez, good to see you up and about
Here's a real shot in the dark
You could try the Boat Museum
In Beufort NC they have an active force of volunteers and maybe with a donation they could build you one
Probably a one day car ride for you
They might even let you do some of the work to the best you can
Offer to buy all materials and groog
Cheers

[HappyMdRSailor]

JR,

I'm surprised nobody has suggested painting her blue and renaming her Viagra... Maybe the pointy end would sort itself out???


Good luck with the progress bud... things are looking up!

[Target9000]

We replaced ours with box welded stainless. It was reasonable. Can put you in touch with the guy if you want to go the metal route.

[model 10]

[QUOTE=Target9000;1988169]We replaced ours with box welded stainless. It was reasonable.


We did that finally, should have done it sooner. These big new style anchors are tough on wood bowsprits. In the case of ours it was no heavier either.

[Jolly Roger]

While I sit here with my broken leg elevated, I have been deliberating how to get a new bowsprit made.
And please, no more jokes about a wooden peg leg—it only hurts when I laugh.
The trouble is there are so many unanswered questions with each potential material.
I have found three wooden boat builders in Florida who reckon they can make a new sprit in laminated Douglas Fir, but I have no prices yet, as they say they are trying to find the best wood.
I am also looking at 6061 aluminum welded box section, but I have no idea what thickness to use? Any input on this would be appreciated as this will determine a price. The welder has 3/8” and 1/4” in stock and I have had welding done by them and it is exemplary, but I have to give them instructions, since they are not boating people. They suggest a vertical center spine all the way down the tube for added stiffness. They would even weld tubes for the vertical through bolts and windlass bolts.
I had not thought about stainless before, and I wonder what wall thickness that should be, and what would be the difference in weight against DF and Ally?
I can work out the weight of the finished sprit in Ally, but I don’t know how to do it in Douglas Fir? Anyone have the weight of DF per cu ft?
I could remove the sprit and weight it, but I don’t want to dismantle it until I have a new one ready to replace it.
I would then paint the sprit with two pot poly, the same as we painted all the spars and masts

[HappyMdRSailor]

JR

Doug is 35-45ish lb/ft3 depending on species...

Have you thought of a small section of Al stick (broken spar) as suggested by Steady? Maybe you could sleeve a couple for added strength??? (this sprit thing could NOT be further from my experience zone BTW)

OK... No blue topside paint then... 2nd choice is slap on a few Nascar "male performance" stickers... ???

[Jolly Roger]

Thanks Happy. I can now work out roughly how much my present sprit weighs.
This morning I received my first quote for a Sitka Spruce laminated sprit, (not Douglas Fir like I asked for), at $2875.00. And no mention of delivery time, which I stressed was an important criteria. Some people just can’t follow simple customer needs can they?

[Jolly Roger]

Here’s some interesting figures, for those who have helped me with this problem.
Taking HappyMDRsailor’s middle figure for Douglas Fir at 40 lbs per cubic foot, my existing sprit weighs something like 165 lbs.
The exact same shape in 3/8” 6061 structural aluminum sheet, including a central spine, comes in at 124 lbs. If I made it in 1/4“ aluminum it would be only 80 lbs.
If I had it made in a combination, 3/8” sides and spine, with 1/4“ top and bottom, it would be 111 lbs.
JR