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Old 13-09-2012, 22:43   #16
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Re: Are There Places On Your Sailboat You Can't / Won't Go?

To answer the OP's query:

No, there is no such place on this boat. Why? Well, because good access was one of the criteria that I used when selecting the boat.

Cheers,

Jim
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Old 14-09-2012, 10:38   #17
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Re: Are There Places On Your Sailboat You Can't / Won't Go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gjordan View Post
Clipper Marine boats are not noted for being easy for anything, but a sawsall and a vacuem cleaner will get you where you need to go. Double reinforce the holes you have cut and make fume and smoke proof covers. And on the next boat(there always is one) buy a boat with good access to begin with. My 2 cents worth.____Grant.
I'm glad I am not the one who pissed off the 6'7" guy!!
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Old 14-09-2012, 14:23   #18
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Re: Are There Places On Your Sailboat You Can't / Won't Go?

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Originally Posted by xdeeman View Post
I'm glad I am not the one who pissed off the 6'7" guy!!
Ahhh, no worries, mate... just hide in the engine room!

Jim
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Old 14-09-2012, 16:15   #19
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Re: Are There Places On Your Sailboat You Can't / Won't Go?

What electrical work did you have in mind? I ask this because it's possible to relocate some stuff. For example: Primary wiring circuits (alternator output, starter motor) are hard to get to, but once you have tightened the appropriate contacts, there's not much need to get to them regularly. The ignition, senders and sensors (oil, water, temp) likewise need only occasional checking. What else? The engine electrical cable to the cockpit panel, but half of that has already been addressed, the other half should be more easily available by pulling the panel out. The remote alternator regulator can be positioned anywhere, so that's taken care of. There's really not much to deal with, is there?
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Old 14-09-2012, 16:47   #20
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Re: Are There Places On Your Sailboat You Can't / Won't Go?

Sorry for the delay, here's the rest of the reply: I say these things not to make light of your situation, but rather to suggest that you can examine the particular issue and address it. Having built my own boat from a pile of lumber, plywood, great volumes of epoxy and rolls of fiberglass cloth, I also got the chance to install all the ancillary systems. Doing this work for a profession, I knew I wouldn't often have time to work on my own boat, so I tried to learn the lessons of everyone else's issues: access. Every item on my boat can be removed in very little time. That means panels, cabinet fronts (or the whole unit), all floor sole panels. The engine can be removed in a day by undoing cables and wiring that connect to terminal strips in accessible locations, removing fuel, cooling and exhaust hoses that have unions in accessible spots, and removing the shaft coupling. Then, with a screw-in access port above, available from the cockpit, I can use a chain hoist and/or the mainsail halyard to lift up the engine, once I've removed the engine mount nuts. That makes access super easy for an otherwise odious task. My oil dipstick is located in a particularly tough spot, so I bought a longer one from a car parts store, stuck some copper tubing into the dipstick hole, and calibrated the new dipstick using the actual full level of oil in the engine. My oil filter, on a Yanmar 3GM30F is on its side, in a tight spot, so I installed a Fram hotrod oil filter with a remote mounting plate on the hull side where I could slip a plastic bag around it and suffer no yucky spills into the bilge. You can do almost anything once you get over the feeling that the designers were omniscient beings. I added all sorts of alarm senders (on/off switches) coupled with gauge sensors (analog dials) and colorful LED lights and different sounding piezoelectric sounders (from Radio Shack). If something goes bad, or even tends in that direction, I get a reminder, even if I am off watch and snoring. Got a plastic bag or kelp leaf plugged in the seawater intake, or throw a tab on the seawater impeller and block the pump? That means water has stopped flowing. An Aqualarm water flow sensor then closes a circuit sending current into the LED and buzzer located above the water temp gauge. The color of the LED above the water temp gauge (as well as the frequency of the buzzer) is different than if the engine overheats from another source. One means I have a couple minutes before the engine temp alarm goes off, and may give me a moment to decide what my options are.

In short, look for what your problems are, identify what might need to be done, then explore what solutions might serve you best. Think outside the box as to what can be done to substitute for what you already have, but which isn't that suitable for your particular situation. Three in the morning is my best time for this exercise. It beats counting sheep.
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