Anchor Line Chafe Protection

[svadagio]

Nope. Use bigger rope = less stretch.
Bob

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

During tropical storms I am not attempting to prevent the chafe of my rode,- I'm trying to prevent my chain rode from chafing my foredeck! My plan is to attach three successive nylon snubbers to my chain rode. the first is holding a large loop of chain. The second is in place to carry the new stress from this slightly smaller loop if the first snubber chafes away and then a third is standing by if the second snubber fails. My 5/8" snubber lines of three strand nylon are led free and clear from a pair of bow cleats and not subject to a lack of cooling water or abrasion. Although, they are subject to the heat of constant alternating stretch and slack.

Large dyneema pennants are the way we have gone. MBL is just rediculious, which means there is almost no stretch, and this no heat build up. The lack of stretch and movement also means there is no friction for chaff to start.

Basically we have a dyneema pennant on either side of a large nylon line. The ends act as chaff guards, and the middle gives some elasticity. It does take a good bit of splicing work to make however.

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Large dyneema pennants are the way we have gone. MBL is just rediculious, which means there is almost no stretch, and this no heat build up. The lack of stretch and movement also means there is no friction for chaff to start.

Basically we have a dyneema pennant on either side of a large nylon line. The ends act as chaff guards, and the middle gives some elasticity. It does take a good bit of splicing work to make however.

I need help! I can't get anything out of "MLB" except Major League Baseball, so I don't know what is "ridiculous". Of course, my purpose in using the three-strand nylon is in order to have the desired stretch in order to absorb shock. Since the stretch is the whole purpose of the snubber why would I want Dyneema?

Help me understand. I'm sure I'm missing something.

[Jammer Six]

More Lingerie Better

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

I need help! I can't get anything out of "MLB" except Major League Baseball, so I don't know what is "ridiculous". Of course, my purpose in using the three-strand nylon is in order to have the desired stretch in order to absorb shock. Since the stretch is the whole purpose of the snubber why would I want Dyneema?

Help me understand. I'm sure I'm missing something.

Cap, I believe what Stumble (and Evans Starzinger too) are using is a fairly short bit of Dyneema between the sampson post or cleat, through any fairlead, and then attached to the body of the nylon snubber w hich provides the stretch required. Thus, the portion of the system that is subject to chafe, ie the area that goes across the deck and through the fairlead does not stretch or chafe, but the nylon works as usual. I think it is a very good solution to the problem.

Oh, I think MLB is Minimum Breaking Load or something like it.

Cheers,

Jim

[Jammer Six]

Molan Labe Bang

[Jammer Six]

More Like Beth

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

.................. My 5/8" snubber lines of three strand nylon are led free and clear from a pair of bow cleats and not subject to a lack of cooling water or abrasion. Although, they are subject to the heat of constant alternating stretch and slack.

Thanks Jim Cate, you've clearly explained the Dyneema function that I was not understanding from Stumble's post. I quoted a bit of my own former post to reiterate that I have no bends, fairleads or abrading surfaces from my bow cleats to my chain hook; however, if I did have these then the Dyneema would be a great idea. I will recognize that there is the point where the line turns around the horn of the cleat and that in itself would be a point of abrasion. I do like the idea of adding a short lead of Dyneema directly from my cleat, but I would be hesitant to splice this to my snubbers. As I said, I like to keep multiple snubber options.

What are the thoughts of others if I were to link the Dyneema to my snubbers with shackles and thimbles in the same manner as I attach my chain hook to my nylon snubber line?


.... of course, a pair of shackles at the link.

[Jammer Six]

Main Lumber Birch

[Jammer Six]

Massive Loose Bowline

[Stumble]

Lol, sorry. Yes MBL minimum breaking load. And yes I am using dyneema as Jim explained much better than I.

Adding a length of dyneema between your snubbers and a deck cleat would have the same advantage, that of minimizing abrasion, but it also eliminates stretch which on an anchor snubber is critical. I might be tempted to add a safety line from dyneema so that if the snubber breaks the dyneema is there to take up the load.

[thinwater]

Another thing many have learned through real testing is that nylon is MUCH more prone to chafe wet than dry. This is another reason many are using Dyneema pendants through the chocks.

What has worked best for me is nylon tubular webbing, when I can rig it such that he line moves inside the webbing (it is fixed to the cleat, or has enough slack to act that way) and the webbing stays fixed relative to the cleat. Then there is nearly zero wear for many years. If there will be side-to-side (like a dock line at the dock edge, then either Dyneema sleeve or better, chain (a short length of chain over a concrete edge is very well proven).

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by Stumble

................
Adding a length of dyneema between your snubbers and a deck cleat would have the same advantage, that of minimizing abrasion, but it also eliminates stretch which on an anchor snubber is critical. I might be tempted to add a safety line from dyneema so that if the snubber breaks the dyneema is there to take up the load.

Thanks Stumble, I do believe that I will use the dyneema section from my cleats, but I like the series of successive snubbers for my anchoring in tropical storms. I must admit that, although I've anchored in Cat I hurricanes, my hurricanes holes were very protected and I've not had my primary snubber break. There's a bit of complexity in having three snubbers with each having an increased level of slack and arranged in sequence to take the loads. I'm understaning of the dyneema back-up, but I'd rather that my back-ups have shock absorbing stretch.

I will add the dyneema from the cleat though, thanks!

[SVNeko]

Maybe someone can post a how-to on splicing dyneema to 3 strand or better yet double braid.

Sent from my SM-T210R using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by SVNeko

Maybe someone can post a how-to on splicing dyneema to 3 strand or better yet double braid.

Sent from my SM-T210R using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

I wouldn't, and don't. I spoke with the splicing guys at NER about this a few years ago, and the problem we came to is that dyneema is too slippery, and the two lines are just too different to retain much strength if the line is worked much. No one could figure out an end to end splice that would hold.

Our solution, and what I am doing is to splice an eye over a thimble in the nylon, and eye splicing the dyneema to the thimble.