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Old 10-08-2006, 12:44   #46
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Bor's, here are some names of business involved in FC building. I would presume most if not all no longer exist. But a bit of home work may track down a person with experiance you could call on.

J.R. Benford and associates
Fougner Concrete shipbuilding Co
San Francisco shipbuilding Co
Romack Marine
Fibersteel Corp
MacDonald Engineering Works
McCloskey & Co
Ferrocement Laminates
Furst Concrete Scow Construction Co
Aladdin Products

Samson Marine Designs Ltd
G & A Enterprises
Baycrete Marine

Courtesy of Colin Brookes book


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Old 10-08-2006, 15:13   #47
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Aloha Again 2bros,

I just went to a birthday party for my friend Jon O.. He showed me his old picture album where he had managed the Sampson boatyard in Southern California. I saw his photos of hull layup.

You might want to just send him an email if you have some specific questions.

I have done what I see you two doing. I attached myself to a hull and started rebuilding. Luckily I knew how mine was laid up and it was fiberglass. At times I wish I had just taken the money and put it on a downpayment for a really great boat already done. Now I have about $40K and lots of time invested after many many years. It will still be another 6mos to a year before it goes in the water. I'd really rather be out sailing but when I finish my boat will be pretty much exactly what I want.

In your case you don't know the condition of the layers of structure and I would not take on the project. Take all the things that you believe are of worth and find a bargain unfinished fiberglass or steel hull about 42-45 feet and use the gear to finish it.

Just my opinion.

Kind Regards, --JohnL--

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Old 10-08-2006, 15:31   #48
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Its not looking good...

The boat does not look good in the pictures. The stern cracks look bad and may not be repairable.
When I was building my own boats the accepted wisdom was that there were those who built boats and those who sailed them. You are going to have to decide if you want to spend a large part of your life completing/repairing/rebuilding something that is of very questionable quality to start with. More than 15 man years and well over $100,000 may be involved, and I doubt if the completed boat would have any real value.
Working on boats, particulary for a lengthy period of time, can be dangerous with significant health problems.
There seems to be a sharp change in the cost of boats around the 37' mark, so if you really want to go sailing look for a sound boat of about that size. There have been many discussions in this forum about buying this size boat.
37' should be plenty big enough for two people.
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Old 06-04-2007, 15:43   #49
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My company manufactures Fer-A-Lite brand mortar mix to Platt Monfort's original specifications. We perform repairs on Fer-A-Lite as well as Ferro-Cement hulls.

If the material was exposed to the UV from the sun with no paint over it, you probably have some very deep cracks and some of the material will have turned powdery.

This does not necessarily spell doom for the hull.

Is this the hull that was at Jean Street Ship Yard? We are in the Land O Lakes area.

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Old 08-04-2007, 08:07   #50
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- What would we expect to spend finishing the ship?
I couldn't pull up the pics you posted, so can't venture an opinion on the condition of the hull. However, there probably is a good chance that it is a Samson design as you have suggested.

A little general info: Sailboat designs are integral things, hull shapes are drawn to work with specific sail plans, and specific amounts of ballast weight. In addition, they are balanced so that centers of gravity, centers of effort and degree of righting moment are correct for the boats intended use. You cannot make changes in one area, without making changes in other areas, and still have a boat that sails well and is safe to be on at sea. SO - get hold of the plans and follow them. They are still available through the ferrocement boats website listed in a previous post.

Next - before you do anything - spend the money to get the hull properly analysed. You need to know what it was built of and you need to know what materials are compatible with that. Then, you need to either have it x-rayed or sounded with a device that can tell you whether or not the densities are consistent throughout. If the armature inside the hull is rusted the hull is pooched. No ifs, ands, or buts.

If you can't afford to do these things, then don't even think about trying to finish the boat.

Now - actual costs. You need to start with the tools. You need big strong tools to handle this work. Table saw, grinders, band saw, buffers, jig saw, spiral saw with flexible shaft attachment, scroll saw, vices, dozens of clamps, socket sets, drives, torque wrenches, etc. etc. etc.
Figure a minimum of $3,000.00 here.

You'll start by laying in stringers and framing. Depending on what you use figure about $500.00 for wood and another $500.00 for epoxy, $250.00 for stainless screws and other hardware. Don't even think about using anything other than stainless - if it was safe to do so everyone else would be doing it as well.

Now you need to set in your tanks, mast step, chain plates, rudder post, etc. You'll need a couple of water tanks at about $750.00 each. A holding tank - another $750.00. Your diesel tank will be about $1,000.00.
Mast step - make sure you know what mast you are going to use - should run about $400.00 - $500.00. Chain plates, stem and backstay fittings are going to be about $3,000.00 - more if you have to have them custom made.

So where are we - about $10,000.00 so far... not bad.

Now you'll start with fitting out the interior. This is the only area that you'll be able to really use second-hand stuff and the cost is dependent on how luxurious you want things. Let's say that you have no intention of trying to recoup any of your costs by selling the boat when you're that case you can probably do the entire cabin for about $5,000.00. If you want to sell her when you're done....well - look at 45 foot ferrocement boats on the various boat for sale sites, gauge the quality of the interior work and make sure you match it. Otherwise, there is no reason to buy your Samson when there are a few others out there that are much nicer inside...for a nice interior, budget at least $25,000.00

Now you need to put in your engine. 45 foot boat - minimum 65hp diesel. Might be able to get one in decent shape for about $15,000.00 including drive shaft and propeller.

Wiring/batteries - even minimalist level, another $1,500.00.

Mast - you might be able to find a used mast and boom for about $10,000.00. But chances are it's coming off a hurricane boat and has been damaged. HAVING A GOOD MAST IS AS IMPORTANT AS HAVING A HULL WITHOUT HOLES. New - Mast, Boom, Winches, Standing and Running rigging - at least $30,000.00

Now where are we - $61,500. Hmm - add another 25% because we haven't touched on things like the fact that you've never done this before, hence will make mistakes and need to reorder materials, you need to refurbish the hull, you need to get stuff delivered, etc. and we're up to
about $77,000.00...

Time to buy sails: New $15,000.00 - used $5,000.00 plus $3,000.00 in alterations - let's go with $7,500.00

So - the minimum you are going to spend is $85.000.00 at which point you will end up with a boat that you might be able to sell for $40,000.00, providing you have built it strongly enough that it doesn't come apart in a storm killing you both.


You could find an old fibreglass boat - a real "fixer-upper" for under $10,000.00 , move aboard that and spend some time and money on refitting, sail around the world and come back and get close to what you ended up investing in her.

I know what I would do ....

Either way - Good Luck - I admire (and envy) your spirit of adventure
Although it seems like a lot of the posts are from very negative naysayers here, the opinions come from actual experience. There is nothing you can do when you are out at sea caught in the middle of a hurricane. No helicopter can come out and save you (that option won't even be considered by most governments in the world) and no ship will be able to get close enough to you to take you off. So the only thing that can keep you alive is a stout boat under you and enough knowledge and common sense on your part that you don't make too many mistakes.
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Old 08-04-2007, 11:38   #51

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Haven't you ever heard of scrounging?<G> I can get you nice 15-gallon food grade water barrels for the cost of taking them away, a large food importer near me has 15 to 30 gallon containers they literally give away, rather than cleaning them out for re-use or paying to have them hauled as trash. Not hard to clean, the receive bulk pickled veggies in them.<G> And the 15-gallon size are also used for photo processing labs, for "bleach" type chemicals that also wash out clean. We gave a couple of those to someone who wanted some BIG jerry cans.<G>

Shipping, OTOH, cost considerably more than the barrels do.

But if he can scrounge locally, there's hope he can shave five or ten grand off your predictions.<G>
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Old 08-04-2007, 19:51   #52
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That sounds like a great idea. Let's see - how many of those would they need ??? Geez - shouldn't be more than about forty of them...I guess they could do something creative like use them for seats, berths, what have you...just connect them all up with hoses and make sure everything runs downhill..
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:11   #53
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Originally Posted by 2brosana55ftr View Post
Dear Everyone who has posted to this point about 2bros project,

1. Will it float if we set it in the water?
I read somewhere that as part of the curing process and also to verify hull integrity some FC boats have the inside of their hull filled with water for few days (use a water hose to fill it). If it retains water with no leaks to the oustside then it will float. (if no water comes out then no water will come in later). Although in your case it seems some wood paneling and flooring had already been done which might get water damaged. (unless you are planing on taking it out as part of the rebuild).

Good luck on your project!

PS: I would love to get hold of those Samson plans, as I believe I have the same boat as yours..
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Old 03-11-2008, 11:50   #54
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Wow I would think that would put a lot of stress on a hull in a direction not designed for...I wouldnt do it.

So... 2brothers how about an update.
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Old 03-11-2008, 14:39   #55
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This sounds so familiar. Is your name Ronnie???

Cape Dory 25D Seraph
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Old 03-11-2008, 15:44   #56
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Originally Posted by rtbates View Post
This sounds so familiar. Is your name Ronnie???

This thread is from 7-31-06.
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Old 03-11-2008, 15:58   #57
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Originally Posted by rtbates View Post
This sounds so familiar. Is your name Ronnie???
No Ronnie is looking for a Chinese Junk to just jump in and rebuild or inspection time permitted...sat phone and EPIRB will travel...
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Old 03-11-2008, 16:25   #58
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Guys - Let's play nice and keep this thread on topic please...

And yes, this is a very old thread...
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Old 04-11-2008, 00:35   #59
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I would not fill a boat hull with water to check for leaks. That is a lot of weight on a trailer or cradle and can overstress the hull where trailer or cradle supports the hull. I had a hull fill with rainwater once and collapse a cradle along with the gunwhale of the boat. Not good.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:08   #60
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2 bro, you need to sail. You need to get on the water. You need to go NOW three years may never come. If you have the money to support you while you rebuild this great, If you have to work you will take forever to do this. I tried to rebuild a steel sail boat while working at the same time. Well I spent all my money, wasted all my time and never hit the water. Bought a smaller GRP boat and am now sailing. If this is what you want then go for it. But if you want to sail and have any money now, then get what you can, load up and go.
That other boat was another dream for somebody else, don't let it be your nightmare and a waste of your life. Been there done that. Best of luck

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