Cruisers Forum
 


Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. Advertise Here
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 20-11-2018, 02:26   #1
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
West Africa 2018

Hello ,
We are currently cruising in West Africa (cassamance at the moment ) , is there any other yacht in the region ?
I will use this article to give information about the places we visit so people can find information I lacked coming here .

My first impressions until now :
-Senegal is safe to cruise (Dakar and cassamance)
_You can find spare sparkplugs , diesel , gasoline and camping gas in both locations .
-Local people and fisherman are friendly and open minded.
-The navigation buoyes exist and the shallows are really well marked ( better than my country Greece)
-Fishing nets are super well marked ( buoy plus a flag on top )
-We did navigate cassamance at night , avoiding poor light pyrogas and nets was easy , the river has about 140 buoyes and is easy to navigate.
-We been checked by army on the way up ( they where armed , but no gun was pointed at us at any time and they where super friendly , and gentle with their dinghy on our boat .
-It started to rain so I asked them to come.on board (didn't want to get the papers wet ) and they removed the shoes so no dirt on deck .
-more navigation information coming soon .


For more questions you can communicate with me on Facebook https://facebook.com/sailingnala

PS, I would like to keep all the navigation info on top of the thread so if an admin can give me the right to edit the post later or move the info up for me will be nice .
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-11-2018, 05:27   #2
Registered User

Join Date: Oct 2011
Boat: KH 49x, Custom
Posts: 1,759
Images: 2
Re: West Africa 2018

Thanks for starting this thread.

It's easy to discount cruising any of the African coasts. One forgets that the turmoil reported in the news is perpetrated by small groups of bad folks.
The vast majority of the continent is populated with folks just like ourselves, and often, they're more kind and respectful than those of us in the "West".

We've had the west coast of Africa in our sights since before starting our build. We'll get there, and we'll be glad to be able to follow in your wake.

Cheers.
Paul.
GRIT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2018, 14:46   #3
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

Dealing with the authorities in cassamance.
Army check sport :
Going up the river , passing through a block of buildings that I was thinking it's a resort but ended up being an army base , a dinghy approached us with 3 soldiers on it .
They did approach slowly nice and friendly , check our papers and then leave , I never felt threaten or abused.
Ziguinchor
We met the port captain this morning, he did ask us to pay a cruising permit that suppose to cost 100.000 cfa monthly , we said that we can't pay this amount and we will leave the river and the country asap , he did wave the price for us , and was kind to give information about the river and the country .(talking with the French Embassy later they told us that this permit is a lie , he did provide a lot of documentation for the law stating this price on his defence so it might be true it's better if you ask about this in Dakar) in my opinion if you stay for a month is a fair price to pay thinking the dredging and buoys maintance they do.

After that we had to get our passports stabbed this is when the nightmare started , we spent all day going from the port office to the police to the airport (taxi to the airport is 500 cfa every way ) , the right way is to go straight to the airport.

The airport :
In the airport we talked with 2 policeman , after explaining our situation they ask us to wait for the passport guy to arrive , making a long story short they did want us to pay 30.000 cfa as a symbolic fee , ofcourse we refused .
One of the police officers threaten us with imprisoned and tried to squeeze out the money of us with threats , we did left the airport without a stamp on our passports and nobody blocked out exit , the passport guy wanted to come with us to the port ,something that I refused at that point since I was feeling threaten , he did gave us his contact details and insist on calling him .
After contacting the Greek embassy and French Embassy about this issue I was advised to report the issue to the closest police station , and if they wouldn't help I had to call back (the Greek embassy )
I decided to make a meeting with the passport guy at 7 o clock in the hotel la peroquet (more on the hotel.later ) he came early so he had to come up again later , he did stamp our passports and didn't ask for money .
We did gave him 5000 cfa (we had to persuade him since we thought about it after he had left) a fair amount of you consider he used taxi 4 times trying to help us .
All that being said is better if you complete your check in and check out procedures in Dakar , if you visit cassamance directly you can always deny pay the fees or negotiate (I suggest you to refuse and claimthat you gonna leave the country ) .
Keep in mind that as far as you are within the law they can't do anything to you .
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2018, 15:02   #4
Registered User

Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 571
Re: West Africa 2018

Keep in mind that as far as you are within the law they can't do anything to you .[/QUOTE]

I wonder how many people's last words were "you can't do this"

I think likely in the millions. Probably more.

Just saying.
Allied39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2018, 15:13   #5
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

Quote:
Originally Posted by Allied39 View Post
Keep in mind that as far as you are within the law they can't do anything to you .
I wonder how many people's last words were "you can't do this"

I think likely in the millions. Probably more.

Just saying.[/QUOTE]

I don't get what you mean ?

If you are talking about security , I do want to comment that the country officers do respect the country laws , human rights and international laws , the street it feels safe and I was never been afraid .
As far as you stay within the law, repsect their authority and be polite you are gonna have no problems
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2018, 16:10   #6
Registered User

Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 571
Re: West Africa 2018

I was not stating that in relation to where you are.

I am glad all is going well for you. Generally, it is as you state most places, don't break the law, be respectful etc and all is well.

I was just having a laugh.....how many people have, just before being killed, said "you cant do this!"

I dare say tens of millions.

Please don't take the comment as being an attack on anything, it was not.

Safe and happy travels!
Allied39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-11-2018, 00:39   #7
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

Quote:
Originally Posted by Allied39 View Post
I was not stating that in relation to where you are.

I am glad all is going well for you. Generally, it is as you state most places, don't break the law, be respectful etc and all is well.

I was just having a laugh.....how many people have, just before being killed, said "you cant do this!"

I dare say tens of millions.

Please don't take the comment as being an attack on anything, it was not.

Safe and happy travels!
Sorry for taking it too serious

I just don't wanna give the wrong idea about the place
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-11-2018, 01:31   #8
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

Authorities update :
This morning the French Embassy called and gave us more information:
-The boat can stay to cassamance up to one month free of charge
They told us the check in the country is easy in Dakar and free .
So it's confirmed If you plan to visit Dakar should be the first stop .
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-11-2018, 06:32   #9
Registered User
 
Sailormantx's Avatar

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Texas
Boat: 42' Colvin Gazelle
Posts: 323
Images: 2
Re: West Africa 2018

Dakar was relatively simple to check in spring of 2015, with three offices to visit. Planning to stop there again enroute to The Gambia. Maybe with a stop in the Riviera Saloum this time. Have you heard if the officials are still ok with visiting the Saloum after checking out in Dakar? Otherwise it's a return to Dakar before The Gambia. Probably be down that way in a couple of months.
Sailormantx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-12-2018, 09:55   #10
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

We are now cruising in Guinea Bissau , bijagos islands , until now it's been the most beautiful place we have visit in West Africa coast , people are friendly and kind .
I will share all the navigational details once the cruise finish end of December and awe cross to cape Verde but until then here are some pictures of this unspoiled paradise .
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0553.jpg
Views:	135
Size:	399.9 KB
ID:	182187   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0561.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	287.1 KB
ID:	182188  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0469.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	228.1 KB
ID:	182189   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0473.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	380.1 KB
ID:	182190  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0496.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	364.3 KB
ID:	182191   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0482.jpg
Views:	151
Size:	441.6 KB
ID:	182192  

gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-12-2018, 11:01   #11
Registered User

Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern MD, Chesapeake Bay
Boat: Catalina & Maycraft
Posts: 996
Re: West Africa 2018

Beautiful photos. It's good to hear some actual reality on cruising this area. I'd love to go myself someday, and I'll be following this thread as well. Have a great time.
Hardhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-12-2018, 10:42   #12
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

If everyone plans to visit the area we will be in bijagos until the end of the year , our base for the exploring and mapping is Bubaque , we would be happy to meet or.prlvide info to anybody in the area .
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2019, 14:42   #13
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Irish Sea
Posts: 1,321
Images: 7
Re: West Africa 2018

Wonderful trip! How was your experience with the authorities in Bissau? Any remarks o safety?
__________________
Useful as a fireproof bottom paint...
GTom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-02-2019, 05:43   #14
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

We completed our cruise in West Africa and the Atlantic crossing , resting now in Martinique I try to put all the information anchorages weather authorities provisions and people together.
I will put here the basics for now for people who may be interest of visiting this year .

Senegal :
AUTHORITIES :
Safety check by the army : kind people and easy going .
Check into the country : we did the mistake to check in ziquinchor both port police (asks for 100.000 CFA ) and passport officer in the airport asks for bribes and they don't hesitate to threat you , therefore is better to check in DAKAR (if you check in ziquinchor do not hesitate to call the police if they ask for bribe I used.my.embassy and after the police )
Provisions and Gas can be found but is better to get a refill in Dakar than exchange in ziquinchor ,water is plenty.

GUINEA BISSAU
AUTHORITIES
the price to check in the country totalled 150.000 CFA , they do charge you 100.000 for a cruising permit which is questionable since it effect only motor boats (MAKE SURE TI FLY THE COUNTRYES COURTESY FLAG EVEN BEFORE CHECK IN )we received a visit from all authorities onboard everything went smoothly , they where kind and formal .
The port police treat me very well even when I said that I don't have enouph to pay (there is no Bank in bijagos so you need to have enouph CFA from.senegal.or euros ) and they helped me to travel to BISSAU so I can use a bank .
Provisions :
There is no gas in bijagos but you can refill in Bissau (Bissau port is not recommended)
There is basic food in the islands but everything except sweet potatoes and cassava is expensive ( the cost of eating out is around 3 euros per person ). Water can be obtained from wells in the village for free ( be careful and use only the wells with mechanical pump and filter (located in the school at bubaque island )if you ask the locals they are happy to help you .
PEOPLE: I haven't met more kind and nice folks from fisherman's to the port police .
Navigation: through navigation in Senegal is easy in the bijagos you will relay a lot on your GPS , currents and shallows are predictable if you observe , always anchor out of the 10 meters contour inner of that you maybe find rocks a d reefs that was out at low tide .
I have test over 30 anchorages and visited most of the islands .

Conclusion:
SENEGAL: berry touristy expensive and not really worth the hasle (through if you get to know locals you may enjoy the place as we did )

Guinea Bissau :
This place is one of the most remote and beautiful cruising ground you will visit , there are not enouph words in my vocabulary to describe the beauty of the place , is better than Caribbean and it.might be better than Polynesia as well .
In Bissau make sure to interact with locals they are interesting and nice individuals .
Good restaurants if you fancy them can be found in fishing camps I prefer the local bars since they are more fan .
IMPORTANT : GOOD DINGHY ANF OUTBOARD is recommended for bijagos my outboard died so I had to paddle no fun .

SOME PORTUGUES Or FRENCH will make your experience better with locals .
I am still available for information and I will post a detailed PDF.

I have had no safety issues in bijagos my dinghy was on the beach every day o recommend you lock your outboard like on every place (through I don't think locals will care about your 2.3 horse power )
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2019, 13:49   #15
Registered User

Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Crete , Greece
Boat: Beneteau first 26
Posts: 670
Re: West Africa 2018

I have all the information in a PDF , if someone is interested can send me a pm .
gmakhs is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
Africa

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Crew Wanted: ARC Europe - BVI to Portugal May 2018 to June 2018 jhill82 Crew Positions: Wanted & Available 1 05-04-2019 19:21
Crew Wanted: Skipper wanted for Ketch 50f > Jan to March 2018 East Africa Ahooi Crew Positions: Wanted & Available 33 17-10-2017 11:07
Crew Available: in: Southern Africa, Mozambique, South Africa tommi Crew Archives 0 26-05-2014 12:14
Crew Available: SEEKING UNPAID WORKING PASSAGE - MADAGASCAR TO AFRICA/SOUTH AFRICA The Nomad Crew Archives 1 29-01-2014 09:48
Crew Wanted: NZ to South Africa 2014 or Pacific now New Zealand to South Africa captainandreas Crew Archives 10 11-07-2013 05:19

Advertise Here


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:01.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.