Fernando de Noronha: a new Ibiza?

[B4A]

We are sailing along the coast of Brazil towards the Caribbean and we are thinking of taking a detour to Fernando de Noronha. We have heard great things about diving there. Some circumnavigators describe it as "the best diving site in the world".

However, we have made a few phone calls to get a better understanding of the costs, and we are shocked at how expensive and complicated it is.

- Diving 4 sessions x 480 x 2 = R$3,840
- Boat tax 5 days 226 x 5 = R$1,130
- Personal tax = R$723
- Total without other expenses = R$5.693 = USD1,449

There is a huge difference compared to the Abrolhos archipelago, where we didn't have to pay any fees, and diving there costed us USD20.00 per person per dive, including all the gear.

Also, we got reports that the diving tours are not well organized, and some people had to cancel.

Since for us is a detour of several hundred miles, we are thinking about passing on it.

Has anyone of you been there recently? What was your experience? Can you confirm the coast we put together?

Thanks!

[daletournier]

Not only that but it is $75usd to anchor and $25/day for each person aboard.

I've had a couple of friends stop there this year and all reported it to be a rolly anchorage and very expensive.

I'm at Jacare Cabedelo at the moment.

[Copacabana]

Great diving, but very expensive to stay there. Aside from the diving, I'm not sure it's really worth the expense.

[daletournier]

A little of topic, I'm glad your enjoying sailing up the Brazilian coast and find it friendly, it generally is. Do not underate the potential of violence while anchoring in this country . It's always ok right up to the time it isn't. Look at noonsite. I had friends boarded and attacked last year. Also, even here at Jacare cruisers were robbed at gunpoint in the marina last year.

I do not say this to be negative, I'm not, I've cruised for ten years and have come to understand what I said above is true "everything is always OK until it's not".

[Pieter]

I am resident in Brazil for 22 years now and have been twice to Noronha with my 40ft Cat. Indeed it is national park with lots of rules and regulations. Diving could be nice but depends on the dive company and weather. The infra structure on the island is rather basic. To call it the New Ibiza is stretching it a little. The costs are high (foreign flagged vessels pay much more). It is nice sailing from Recife to Noronha and also from Noronha to Natal or further North. All in all i guess it is worth your while..in tops three days your done there. If you need more info pls dont hesitate to contact me. Happy sailing. Pieter

[ALLAN WARD]

We thought about sailing for Fernando from Natal but for a number of reasons we decided against it.

We had been invited as guests to the Natal Yacht Club, our last stop in Brazil before heading in the direction of the Caribbean.

When you are cruising on the South African Rand it is hard to justify the costs to stay there for any length of time.

Lastly, it would have been a hard sail with the wind forward of the beam all the way.

Having spent sometime at the Abrolhos Archipelago, mainly as the only boat in the anchorage, Fernando might have been a disappointment.

We had two wonderful seasons of cruising Brazil with zero incidents, only warm hospitality and a willingness to try and help you when you need it.

[B4A]

Thank you Allan,

this is exactly my feeling. We had a great time in Abrolhos and the diving was amazing. We felt very welcome from both the Navy and the park rangers.

I think it's a shame that Fernando de Noronha has become so outrageously expensive. And since we're heading to the Caribbean, we'll have so many other opportunities to dive. Some locals say that Abrolhos are so much better, both below and over the water.

Unless somebody here in the forum manages to convince me otherwise, I think we'll skip them.

Originally Posted by ALLAN WARD

We thought about sailing for Fernando from Natal but for a number of reasons we decided against it.

We had been invited as guests to the Natal Yacht Club, our last stop in Brazil before heading in the direction of the Caribbean.

When you are cruising on the South African Rand it is hard to justify the costs to stay there for any length of time.

Lastly, it would have been a hard sail with the wind forward of the beam all the way.

Having spent sometime at the Abrolhos Archipelago, mainly as the only boat in the anchorage, Fernando might have been a disappointment.

We had two wonderful seasons of cruising Brazil with zero incidents, only warm hospitality and a willingness to try and help you when you need it.

[bobnlesley]

Originally Posted by B4A

...a shame that Fernando de Noronha has become so outrageously expensive...Unless somebody here in the forum manages to convince me otherwise, I think we'll skip them.

It was outrageously expensive when we looked at visiting seven years ago, so not a new problem. Also, then (it may have changed subsequently ) you couldn't check-in to Brazil there, so strictly speaking needed to sail past to the mainland, check-in and then beat back to windward to make a visit

[B4A]

Originally Posted by daletournier

A little of topic, I'm glad your enjoying sailing up the Brazilian coast and find it friendly, it generally is. Do not underate the potential of violence while anchoring in this country . It's always ok right up to the time it isn't. Look at noonsite. I had friends boarded and attacked last year. Also, even here at Jacare cruisers were robbed at gunpoint in the marina last year.

I do not say this to be negative, I'm not, I've cruised for ten years and have come to understand what I said above is true "everything is always OK until it's not".

Thanks for the warning. So far I don't think Brazil is any more dangerous than Barcellona or Paris. And definitely safer than any high school in the US.

Bad guys are everywhere. Sorry for your friends, I hope those criminals are rotting in jail now.

[B4A]

Originally Posted by bobnlesley

It was outrageously expensive when we looked at visiting seven years ago, so not a new problem. Also, then (it may have changed subsequently ) you couldn't check-in to Brazil there, so strictly speaking needed to sail past to the mainland, check-in and then beat back to windward to make a visit

You are absolutely right, the fact that there is no Receita Federal in Noronha is a serious legal problem, since cruisers crossing the Atlantic technically should sail to Recife first, check in and then sail back to Noronha (upwind).

[KP44]

That was the prison island for a long time. Read about it in "Logbook for Grace" about a whaling ship in 1912 with a scientist on board.
I always think it is incredible when someone want to make a year's wages in one day. I avoid those places.

[B4A]

Originally Posted by Pieter

I am resident in Brazil for 22 years now and have been twice to Noronha with my 40ft Cat. Indeed it is national park with lots of rules and regulations. Diving could be nice but depends on the dive company and weather. The infra structure on the island is rather basic. To call it the New Ibiza is stretching it a little. The costs are high (foreign flagged vessels pay much more). It is nice sailing from Recife to Noronha and also from Noronha to Natal or further North. All in all i guess it is worth your while..in tops three days your done there. If you need more info pls dont hesitate to contact me. Happy sailing. Pieter

Thank you Pieter,

I should have seen your boat when we were in Angra. How would you compare Noronha to Abrolhos?

Also, when diving how many meters of visibility do you have there?

Francesco

[Lambretta]

A good friend of mine was there earlier this year on his way across the Atlantic from South Africa. He stopped there, also complained about the prices and then had his credit card skimmed in a shop in the Island
I had to take a new credit card to him when I hooked up with him to go sailing in the Caribbean in February

Hope this info helps

[Copacabana]

B4A, another option is to get a charter flight to Fernando de Noronha for a diving holiday. It's a domestic flight and the air/pousada packages are not unreasonable (sometimes under R$3,000). The diving in Fernando de Noronha is world class with 30 meter+ visibility.

Another top diving area on your way up the coast is Recife. There are some pretty amazing wrecks with lots of marine life and good visibility (though normally fairly deep and with currents). It might be a cheaper way to get your diving "fix" as you go up the coast.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGjrbgGhrok

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc_kFrMPSwQ

[Cayuse51]

We were there in February this year before sailing on to Cabedelo. The island has beautiful beaches, great diving, and good hiking, but the comments about the costs and rolly anchorage are correct. Marcos, the port captain, is very helpful and uses Google Translate to communicate. I believe we paid about $700 US for 4 people and a boat for 5 or 6 days. The anchorage has good holding, but it is deep and exposed. It was very rolly when we were there, but it may be better later in the year with less north swell.