What's Tunisia like now?

[b_rodwell]

We are planning to go to Tunisia for one or two days to reset our VAT exclusion on the boat. We are currently in Sardinia and after Tunisia we will go to Ragusa, Sicily to overwinter.

I have noted the UK official attitude to Tunisia and the Australian Government advises 'reconsider your travel plans'. That is not the strongest warning that they give.

I would like to hear what it is like from cruisers that are there or have been there recently. At this stage we are planning to go to Bizerte, Tunisia .

Could you tell me how you find it there? I would be grateful for any information you might have - first hand or second hand.

Thanks

Brian

[Markhunter1097]

Second hand info. A mate just did the same as you are planning, he had a guy on he ground to help with the paperwork, and apart from an issue with the wine ( no cares re the rum) all worked well. Customs guys were tough yet the police though I was told were very helpful.



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[boatman61]

Unless things have changed since I was in Bizerte a couple of years back.. all you have there is a fishing port.
Went into the main harbour area and were told to clear off.. so sailed round (engine dead) to the fishing harbour next door..
Police turned up and demanded our passports.. then drove off with them.. much to my concern.. facilities were zero and there were a couple of tense moments with angry young men when we went into the city.
You would IMHO be better off heading for one of the main marina's.. one of which is across the large bay to the SW..

[Kenomac]

We are considering the same for next summer, but are concerned due to our U.S. flagged vessel, we don't want any added aggravation. Our only other reasonable choice is to head over to Montenegro which will certainly be less stressful, but quite a bit farther away.

Will probably consult our customs bond agent when the time gets closer.

[b_rodwell]

Any comments from cruisers in Tunisia now?

After looking at the pilot guide we may try Sidi Bou Said marina or a new marina just north of it (Gammarth).

Brian

[steve77]

I am also very interested in news from cruisers in Tunisia. We will probably go to either Tunisia or Saidia, Morocco for our three month Schengen purgatory.

Cheers!

Steve

[Nic Homan]

Hi

We spent last winter there and enjoyed it so much we bought a one year berth so we could return this winter. We have heard from people who live permanently in Port Yasmine, Hammamet that everything is calm. Yachts are coming and going as normal. The only tourists not visiting are the British, as one might expect. The facilities at Port Yasmine are good, except the yard which is not operating, including a security gate that only berth holders can pass through. Sidi Bou Said is prone to silting and we were advised having a draft of 2.3m not to consider it. Bizarre is essentially a fishing village with few facilities. Monastir we enjoyed for four weeks whilst our yacht was copper coated.

We are likely to overwinter in Marina di Ragusa though.

Regards

Nic Homan
SY Amokura

[jimtaylorofkw]

Hi, we cannot tell you about Tunisia but we were in Albania and Montenegro last week, Aug 2015. Very friendly people and great (low) prices. Our 3rd trip to Montenegro and first to Shengjin (St John), Albania. Contact me for more on Albania, homeportkwtaylor@yahoo.com

[David B]

Originally Posted by b_rodwell

We are planning to go to Tunisia for one or two days to reset our VAT exclusion on the boat. We are currently in Sardinia and after Tunisia we will go to Ragusa, Sicily to overwinter.

I have noted the UK official attitude to Tunisia and the Australian Government advises 'reconsider your travel plans'. That is not the strongest warning that they give.

I would like to hear what it is like from cruisers that are there or have been there recently. At this stage we are planning to go to Bizerte, Tunisia .

Could you tell me how you find it there? I would be grateful for any information you might have - first hand or second hand.

Thanks

Brian

We arrived in Tunisia in late June 2013 and stayed there each year for several weeks at a time for two years, leaving early June this year.
Sidi Bou Said was our arrival port in 2013, and I would not recommend it. The silted entrance was negotiable for our draft of 2.1, but space was at a premium, and we had issues with locals on the wharf (trying to use our boat as a diving platform, trying to use our boat as a photo opportunity (yes, freely coming on board while we were below) etc, etc. Also we experienced friendly but corrupt officials at Sidi Bou Said.

Just out of interest, at Kelibia - a busy, dirty fishing port, we experienced the greatest of concern and kindness (and no corruption) from the officials - cannot speak highly enough of them there, but I suggest you go to Port Yasmine. There you will find a world-class marina facility, and as long as you get onto one of the pontoons rather than the public area, you have security-gated access. The security guards are very friendly (especially our mate Sammy), and take their job seriously in keeping an eye on your boat (no graft asked for).

The shop-keepers are of course eager for your business, but that is about it. The locals - from supermarket managers, to taxi drivers, to hardware store managers etc, etc are very friendly and very helpful.
The yard is not closed - work is being done on a daily basis, but I would not recommend leaving your boat there for more than a few days in case it does close and leave you stranded (we gather there is a change of ownership in progress, but will await further news from our friends over there).

The marina is fine, and similarly priced to the South of France (work on around EUR2850 per annum for a 15M berth). We lived on board there from early June to mid July 2014, and early May to early June 2015. At all times we felt safe. With current events, our suggestion is to not frequent tourist beaches where the hotels have deck chairs out for their guests, or bars where tourists congregate - just don't make yourself a target.
Also, when arriving and leaving, stay away from the Libyan 'end of town' e.g, if you are going to Malta, sail via Pantelleria, rather than going straight across.

We have a friend there who can look after your paperwork if you prefer, but we dealt directly with the officials and found them to be absolutely fine - just stay relaxed and friendly, treat them with courtesy and respect, but also stand your ground if you are asked for "a present" (only one did as we were checking out, and we just said no - that was the end of it).

The latest massacre happened just down the coast from where we were, and of course we would be a little apprehensive on returning next year (as we may do to re-set our 18mth EU tax clock), but the whole world seems to have gone crazy, so where is safe these days?

Put it this way - where else do you arrive tired from a long flight, to stand at the security gates of the marina at midnight to get a smile, a hug and a kiss from the security guard ("I was just telling my colleague you said you would be back this month, and here you are!"), then the next day when you visit the yard you used the previous year, a warm welcome from the manager, and his supervisor - and a kiss from the night watchman?

We found the Tunisians to be generally lovely, warm and welcoming people, who respect Christianity and even celebrate Christmas if they have a Christian friend.
Respect them and their religion, and they will respect you and make you feel very welcome. Just keep your head down in tourist areas, that's all.

I think I have said enough for now, but if there is further interest, I can past a few extracts from my journal, into this discussion to give people a further feel for our experiences there.

[chuckr]

First we spent 2 winters in Hammamet and loved it and love Tunisia. But we will not go back. The problem is you have to get off the boat and go to town ect and that is the problem. The last 2 incidents were done by young men that were clean cut and looked like anything but someone who would shoot down people. And that is the problem - who is the bad guy.

Two years ago we travelled over 4k km in Tunisia and travelled the length and breadth of a great country and loved every minute. But this year we were going to the desert in southern Tunisia where we went last year and advised by Tunisians and others not to go. The problem is not just Tunisia but Libya that is simply a lawless country and exporting that to Tunisia.

If you are simply going to reset VAT should not be a problem and Hammamet has some folks there, Brits, that can help in a lot of ways if you let them know you are coming and will smooth the way for you.

We simply loved Tunisia and have a lot of good friends there but will not go back in the near future.

And Nic Hello and hope you had a great summer sailing. We are in Kusadasi Turkey for the winter.

[Salmon17]

My boat spent two winters in Saidia, Morocco and now is second winter in Hammamet, Tunisia. Next year will take the boat back to Saidia for winter. Both places are best in their countries, have pros and cons, generally safe (I was taking taxis and renting cars in both countries).

[Dauntlessny]

Originally Posted by Salmon17

My boat spent two winters in Saidia, Morocco and now is second winter in Hammamet, Tunisia. Next year will take the boat back to Saidia for winter. Both places are best in their countries, have pros and cons, generally safe (I was taking taxis and renting cars in both countries).

I may do the same next winter also.

I'll need some non Schengen time and probably reset the VAT clock for the last time.

[Vampire]

Looks like i have the most recent info.

I keep my 40' Catamaran in Tunisia. it is Canadian flagged and we are in Port Yasmine. First class location at Greece and Turkish prices. great for fuel as its cheap and good place to reset VAT and get some none Schengen time. we have had the boat there a year now and will take it to Greece this summer. We have no issue with Tunisia. we will be back. It has been a good port of convenience for us. Security is high as they want to give every one a sense that they take any threat to the public seriously and that they are doing everything to protect you.
it is common to see heavily armed police and army at malls and tourist areas.
but this is common for any one travelling in Israel or Egypt. you do feel safe. Just be smart like a previous post said. dont get in a large group of tourists. travel with a local. if he thinks its off then dont go. but to be honest they are just as dumbfounded buy the situation as anyone. and it is taking food off the table. and they are mad as tourism is there big industry. I was out for a walk just before Xmas eve and one of the shop keepers asked me when will the tourists were coming back? Very Sad. they are hurting.
ok enough of that.
the Port authorities are excellent. Customs and immigration were very nice. even when your tired after coming in from a 24hour sail. they sat us down and said please rest while we do your paper work. they prefer french but every one speaks English. ATM's are every where and we get good value for money. you dont need the tourist exit stamp any more that was stopped last summer. And with the new Tax law for alcohol you can buy beer and Wine in big grocery stores and Blue Ice store by the marina. its cheep too. to combat smuggling the government dropped the tax and is selling it openly now. you just need to ask where the alcohol is in the store and they will ask for your passport and show you a room where they keep it cool. Every one just kind of looks the other way as it is supposed to be a Muslim country but like every where not every one practices. not sure how this works during Ramadan so stock up.
ok boat work. Mick and Joe and Adel and the team at MT marine services have looked after our boat for the last year. we have lots of great stuff to say. This British and French team do every thing to make the absent owner feel good. I even had Adel and his team change my standing rigging and repaint my mast while i was back in Canada. they are a Sparcraft associate.
the work was done well and at a great price. for the Med to small (30-60) size boats i recommend these guys. and they will do engineering projects for you as well or if your staying on your boat they provide materials and skills and tools to help the person doing the job them selfs. Mick sold me the chemicals i needed to fix my Zodiac and gave me a ten min lesson on how to fix it and then inspected the work at the end of the day. great people. and dont miss the Cruisers get together they hold for the boats they are looking after.
so you can do it all in Tunisia and its safe as France and warmer and cheap. and if you cant get it they bring it in on the ferry from France then next week.
And dont forget to ask for the Airport pickup. its the best and least expensive ride to the Marina from the airport or to the airport.
SV ICE BEAR

[David B]

Good summary Vampire - just as we found it.
Out of interest, is the Adele you refer to Adele Zahrouni (Hammamet Yacht Services)? He mentioned he was expanding operations, but perhaps this is another Adele (other than at Rodriguez). If so, some contact details might be useful for people.

Agree the people there are generally very warm and helpful, and it's a good place to be. You just have to keep your eyes open more now -as you do in other major population centres around the world. Where will it end we wonder ..

Thanks,

David

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by Vampire

it is common to see heavily armed police and army at malls and tourist areas.
but this is common for any one travelling in Israel or Egypt. you do feel safe. Just be smart like a previous post said. dont get in a large group of tourists. travel with a local. if he thinks its off then dont go.

Good post and point made.

People should consider those words used very carefully.

Now that I have been cruising for 7 years I like places where you don't see the Army; where the police are bored with nothing to do; the word 'terrorist' is a misspelling of 'tourist'; and the rum, beer and champagne flow freely and is legal.

In ones cruising cycle there's a time for adventure... I have had my Red Sea and Gulf of Aden and don't need that fear in my heart again.




Mark