Tips for Greece

[DoubleWhisky]

The season in Med is closer and closer, so I'm starting this thread for exchange of tips for summer cruise in Greece.

For the begenning my first tip:

LEVITHA ISLAND (NISIDA LEVITHA)

Here is the link for GoogleMaps:

Levitha


It is just a tiny piece of rock in the middle of nowhere (really between the Dodecanese and Cyclades - formally belongs to Dodecanese, as part of Leros community, but actually it is closer to Amorgos in Cyclades).

The island is unspoilt place, without water tap or electricity, but it has a fine anchorage, completely protected from Meltemi. Only one family of four or five live there and they run small tavern. Fantastic grilled fish and - if You were lucky - You will find there the best, probably, grilled lobster in Aegean.

Definitely worth a visit

[DoubleWhisky]

Nobody to join?

O.K. - here is my second tip

SAYADA

This is small hamlet in Northern Epirus, just near the Albanian border.
Small harbour can accomodate only boats drawing no more than 6 ft.
Bigger boat can only anchor off.
Only - but good - reason to visit is a tavern offering shrimps and prawns grilled, with a choice of sauces. Fantastic eating - if somebody is fond of frutti di mare

[wryanddry]

Chartered from Athens last year so no exotic islands just the charter milk run but we did really enjoy Epidavros, have some friends that moved there from the UK. Hydra is a classic horse shoe greek bay, very picturesque but didn't want to raft up, the harbour is packed 2 boats deep (med moored) by mid afternoon so get there early, we anchored in Mandraki and took water taxi over to Hydra. Pretty little harbor and town on the north tip of Angistri was also a favorite. Poros was also nice but the wash from the ferry is a pain. Our family joke was to eat at the restaurant "Poseidon" in every town, and yes there is a Poseidon in every town.

Loved Greece and would go back in a heartbeat but would like more time to explore and find the kind of places you describe.

[hoppy]

No tips as I am new to the area, but for that reason I will keep an eye on this thread

[boatman61]

I can recommend a little town called Platania...
it lies on the mainland just north of Evia and the last anchorage before the crossing to Skiathos...
no water tap or electric but nice food n drink....
oh no cash machines for 30kms either so if you stop have cash...
credit cards not accepted....
Marmaris on the SW coast of Evia is really nice as well....
Has water on tap at quay and an excellent eatery on the edge of town looking across the bay....
Both the kind of simple places I love...

[Jacques2]

i agree : LEVITHA ISLAND is a wonderful spot where you can stay a few days waiting for (unforecasts) strong winds to stop ... We did, 3 years ago and then we tried to sail to Amorgos, but it was still to strong and we get back to Levitha !!! In fact, we did not join Amorgos that year...
There are boys and laid moorings for a few boats...
But, but, iI thought I was the only one to know this island

[DoubleWhisky]

Originally Posted by Jacques2

But, but, I thought I was the only one to know this island

It is deservedly popular - but only between "those in know" - mainly pro skippers and liveaboards

[DoubleWhisky]

Originally Posted by wryanddry

Hydra is a classic horse shoe greek bay, very picturesque but didn't want to raft up, the harbour is packed 2 boats deep (med moored) by mid afternoon so get there early.

There is narrow winding street, exiting the main square just in the middle of it. Go up. The street is meandering uphill. After may be hundred meters it is small tavern on the left side (few steps up from the street) called Garden Restaurant or something similar. Not very expensive (Hydra is not cheap), but offering really good fish

[DoubleWhisky]

Originally Posted by wryanddry

Chartered from Athens last year so no exotic islands just the charter milk run. Loved Greece and would go back in a heartbeat but would like more time to explore and find the kind of places you describe.

I personally think Athens are the least interesting base for charter in Greece.

The best starting points - in my personal opinion - are:
Lefkas (Ionian Islands)
Samos (Eastern Aegean Islands - but just off Northern Dodecanese)
Kos (Dodecanese Islands)
Paros (Cyclades)

There is good domestic communication in Greece, and most of mentioned above islands are served by air charters and cheap airlines, so it is not great problem to start Your charter there

[swagman]

Originally Posted by DoubleWhisky

I personally think Athens are the least interesting base for charter in Greece.

The best starting points - in my personal opinion - are:
Lefkas (Ionian Islands)
Samos (Eastern Aegean Islands - but just off Northern Dodecanese)
Kos (Dodecanese Islands)
Paros (Cyclades)

There is good domestic communication in Greece, and most of mentioned above islands are served by air charters and cheap airlines, so it is not great problem to start Your charter there

And lets not forget the ubiquitous Greek ferry service..........you can fly into Athens and get anywhere around the islands with ferries leaving continually. And they do not cost and arm or a leg.
JOHN

[DoubleWhisky]

Originally Posted by boatman61

I can recommend a little town called Platania...
it lies on the mainland just north of Evia and the last anchorage before the crossing to Skiathos...
no water tap or electric but nice food n drink....
oh no cash machines for 30kms either so if you stop have cash...
credit cards not accepted....
Marmaris on the SW coast of Evia is really nice as well....
Has water on tap at quay and an excellent eatery on the edge of town looking across the bay....
Both the kind of simple places I love...

Evia is definitely underestimated island. Not sure why...

[DoubleWhisky]

Originally Posted by Yiorgos

The South part of Crete is less organised but more interesting if the purpose is a less "civilised" itinerary. Starting from the West side, Palaiochora is the first port you can stay during the night with nice night life. Very close to the amazing Elafonisi where you can also anchor but is not so safe during the night (and nothing to eat, drink etc)
Then Loutro has no pier but you can safely anchor almost in any weather. In Loutro there is no connection by car, very pictoresque. Very close is Sfakia, a new small "marina" is built the last couple years, also a nice stay.
Then is Plakias, one mile to the West of the village, a new small port is finished last year.
Agia Galini, is the next place. Even if there is not a lot of free space the port is safe and the locals will help you find a spot and stay during the night. Alternatively is Kokkinos Pirgos 2,5 n.m. to the East. However, a lot of local fishing boats.
Next good shelter but not ideal to spend the night is Kali Limenes. There is no pier and it is a tanker station but if something happens... a food shelter. (the quality of the sea is perfect to swim by the way)
Then is Tsoutsouras, small place, side dock just after the lighthouse in the entrance. As in most of those places, during the winter the sand coming from the sea streams changes dramatically the depth but they drag it out just before the season starts. However, always check.
Same style is Keratokambos & Arvi.
Ierapetra (watch your depth meter) is also a place but rather busy.
The distance from Ierapetra to the South East edge of Crete cannot give you a port-kind place for the night. Atherinolakkos is a shelter, a small port for the night but there is nothing to eat/drink and it's next to the Electricity Plan.
The South part of Crete has a lot of great bays to anchor and enjoy a night stay & of course, swim. However you should always keep your mind to possible reefs (close to the coast), the depth in the bays and the ports and finally, the gusts. You may sail with 10 knots of North wind and suddenly goes to 35-40 knots. As a result, sail during the daytime is safer or during the night avoid the use of the sails. The reason why are the high mountains that exist very close the coastline.
Finally, visit Gavdos island, Chrissi island and Koufonisi island. Amazing waters...
Remember that the West Crete & East Crete have no fishing harbors to stay during the night (exc. of E, Kouremenos but not for your boat) However, according to the weather, they can give you nice places to swim or anchor (esp. E Crete)
During June the prevailing wind is N, NW which means no wave to the S part of the island but definitely some gusty places. In the case of a strong N wind (rather impossible) think of waiting in a good shelter.
The North part of the island is more "civilised" with main city ports but in general, in Crete you won't find the classic marina. From the West side we have Kissamos, safe (maybe a little swell) small port for the night. Before you MUST visit Gramvouse island. Thenis Kolimvari and after that Chania city, amazing old port and great night life. Always enter during daytime due to the numerous reefs in the entrance of the port. Also contact via VHF or phone the port police authorities for a birth at least one day earlier. After is Souda, a small marina without interest but in the physical bay of Souda, there are places to anchor and enjoy the sea like Marathi. Some talk about Georgioupolis but don't try to enter, it's impossible.
Your next station is Rethimno city. There, you'll find a marina with some facilities which is 5 min. walk from the old town, a beautiful place to see. The marina is very safe. Panormos & Bali are two villages before the next main city of Heraklion where you can stay overnight. Panormos more risky while a small pier open to the NE but Bali bay (even gusty) will give you a place for night stay and night life. Then is Heraklion, the biggest city of the island with the less mooring facilities. You'l find space in the pier outside of the Venecian port, the dock is two meters high and there is a swell esp. from the night ferries. However, people will help you and worths visiting the capital of the island. Around 7 n.m. from Heraklion, there is Gouvies marina, a small shelter for the night in a hotel resort place but enter only during the daylight. Panormos & Sissi are nice but very tiny for your boat. Also the depth is close to 1,8 - 2m. Hersonissos fishing harbor very noisy, a lot of fishing mooring lines and reefs to watch. Malia, an abandoned try for a safe small port, from 3m depth goes to 1m and then 3m again, due to the sand. I think that the physical gulf of Agios Nicolaos will be perfect. The small island of Spinalonga and Plakias village, Elounda, Agios Nicolaos marina and the small bays around will give you a nice stay for the day and the night.
More to the East, there is a pier in Pachia Ammos but nothing to see and not so safe if the N wind blows a lot. In Mochlos you'l find a shelter from the prevailing winds behind the small island opposite to the village. Don't try to enter the new fishing harbor, your boat is too wide. Next stop is Sitia, it is a town with a big fishing port, well protected and you'll probably find a spot. Don't get confused with the strange "architecture" of the port. Most of time side docking in the right side of the port. Check for mooring ropes in your propellers.
In General, if you want to combine the visit in some archeological places, museums etc, the North part of the island is ideal. Crete needs a lot of marine infrastructure to become an ideal and safe destination for all sailors. However, now it gives you the feeling of exploration which is great, when you wisely sail.

Wanted to bring here this highly informative post of Yiorgos from another thread. Crete is quite rarely visited by cruisers, even less by charterers.
It is pity, as the island is fabulous and really woth a visit.
Popular excuse is: "It is out of way" what is completely untrue.
You can easily visit Crete even by charterboat.
Charter can be arranged from Paros, Ios or Thira (Santorini). All islands have good communication (Thira directly from most of European countries). Many charter companies should be very happy to arrange one - way charter between each of abovementioned islands and Athens (they normally have a lot of clients wishing for one-way from Athens to Cyclades - it's a matter of coordination). From Ios or Thira there is one night (or one day, but in this stretch of the sea I prefer night sailing - it's easy, no much shipping) sail to Agios Nikolaos. From the marina there You can explore the eastern part of Crete by rented car. Another day of sailing take You to Rethimno or Chania, from where You can explore the west part of the island. Next one night and You are on Milos, well worth a visit place. Sailing from Rethimno or Chania in night just keep west form the main ferry route, going through the strait between Milos and Antimilos and turning to the Irakleio at southwesternmost point of Milos. Approach to Milos should be after dawn. From Milos You can sail towards Your starting point - or towards Athens (if You are chartering one way). If the wind is unfavourable for sailing to the Milos, You can beat towards Leonidhion on Peloponissos. Both cases Hydra and Poros are on Your way to Athens

[Palarran]

Thanks for keeping the thread going 2Xwhiskey. I've decided to go on north side of Crete as I need to provision Palarran for about a month for 10 people. I think it will be cheapest to go to the markets in Heraklion to do this. Unless you think Rhodes will have similar pricing for food.

Your knowledge and enthusiasm is appreciated.

[Palarran]

I do have a question that you may be able to answer. If I want to get a berth in Rhodes that is in the old harbor, how do I go about reserving it and how long in advance do you think I will have to book it? I understand they are very difficult to get.

[DoubleWhisky]

Originally Posted by Palarran

Thanks for keeping the thread going 2Xwhiskey. I've decided to go on north side of Crete as I need to provision Palarran for about a month for 10 people. I think it will be cheapest to go to the markets in Heraklion to do this. Unless you think Rhodes will have similar pricing for food.

Your knowledge and enthusiasm is appreciated.

I think for provisioning the Rethimno will be not more pricey - or at least not much. The place is much nicer than Heraklion (Irakleio), and both have supermarkets at the outskirts. Some things (vegetables, fruits, eggs) can be obtained cheaper at local markets - make a query
Rhodes can be a little more expensive, but I'm not so sure, I didn't been there last year. Anyway - mainland is cheaper han the islands. If Peloponese is on Your way, may be a stop at Kalamata will save You a little.