Across the Top of Australia

[Going-east]

Hi BVImatelot,
What an adventure you had.
I am leaving first week of January from Phuket direction Darwin and Port Moresby......
If you need parts I will be happy to carry them for you. Phuket has all what you can dream of for yacht repairs.
Our ETA to Darwin is end of January and after refueling and provisioning we will be of for PNG.

Where are you now?

Few years ago I have stopped between Bali and Darwin at the Ashmore reef.
The OZ Coast guards where there and allowed us to have a 2 day brake.
They were very friendly and understanding (I had on board a 5 years old girl). They gave us a list of things to don't do..... That place is one of those that left a mark in my memories.

Yes, I agree Bali is useless for boats issues, in the marina a barge used us as their fender (with damage) and never got a penny out of them......... I tried to repair a sail but they don't have material or proper sawing machine......

All my respect for what you have done during your delivery.

Best regards
Andrea

[Going-east]

Hi Stoffer123
thanks for your message, yes I would be grateful if you could point out anchorages and notes of your Torres Straight passage. It will be a new experience for me and looks like not many sailor have done it in the 'wrong way'.
I will be leaving Darwin probably around the first week of February.
I will be taking a motor-sailer to PNG, plenty of engine power and diesel...... But she must be in PNG damage-less since the owner will join the boat for his 2 months holidays so I am looking to have most info as possible to avoid tricky spots and have a list of portholes where to rest or wait for better conditions.
Best regards
Andrea

[rusky]

HI Going-East

I went from darwing to cairns May 09.

I was thinking of heading off mid feb, but a cyclone popped up [within the 4 day forecast window]

I went straight from Cullen Bay to Gove [no stops]:

Went under Croker Is, through the 'hole in the wall' to Gove. Refueled at the Perkins wharf next morning. ph 08 8987 1482

I went this way to keep close to land and not go too far out into the ''arafurious'

I then went to Seisia. You however may have to go into TI - customs and AQIS [who need 24 hrs notice]

From TI, you are in the shipping channel which is well beaconed to Bramble Cay. Then off to POM.

[bvimatelot]

Maybe should start a new thread "Across the Top Part Deux" - but for those interested, the Athena Cat will be waiting for me to resume the trip by the end of this month. Hoping to fly to Singapore late next week.

Since the Indonesian CAIT has expired and anyway the crew are different, the present intention is to do a straight shot Singapore to Darwin, clear the boat in then charge over the top and down t'other side.

Tony

[bvimatelot]

Originally Posted by bvimatelot

Maybe should start a new thread "Across the Top Part Deux" - but for those interested, the Athena Cat will be waiting for me to resume the trip by the end of this month. Hoping to fly to Singapore late next week.

Since the Indonesian CAIT has expired and anyway the crew are different, the present intention is to do a straight shot Singapore to Darwin, clear the boat in then charge over the top and down t'other side.

Tony

woops??

[Wotname]

Excellent, I was wondering when you would update us again, hope all goes well as it is about time your luck turned

[jmo64]

Knew you wouldn't give up! We've been waiting for the saga to continue...all the best...I'm sure this trip will go off without a hitch

Cheers to your voyage

[bvimatelot]

Latest update.

OK - Here we are back in Singapore! After a couple of weeks faffing around we should re-start this trip on the morning tide. The only slightly worrying thing is the poor state of the batteries...

Interestingly enough, inspired by kind comments on this board, I cobbled together a digest of my disjointed reports and sent it off to my Sailing Association. Not only did they publish in their journal, I also won the Prize for the Best Foreign Cruise Report!! As a Newly Published Author, I am anxiously scanning the post to see if Mann Booker or maybe Pulitzer, have picked up on this....??

Taking local advice, my route has changed somewhat: From Singapore I'll trek over to the Malaysian side of Borneo for a replenishment stop then down to the Solomons/Luisiades area over the top of PNG, before crossing to Australia. I'll probably do a straight shot to Brisbane from there: Much as I would love to do a bit of Barrier Reef Tourism, I don't think I've got the time.

Hopefully a stress-free trip over to Borneo where I'll update. As Ever - If anyone has experience of this route and can recommend any "must-sees" or "must-avoids", I'd be very grateful.

Safe sailing, all. Tony

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by bvimatelot

Latest update.

OK - Here we are back in Singapore! After a couple of weeks faffing around we should re-start this trip on the morning tide. The only slightly worrying thing is the poor state of the batteries...

Interestingly enough, inspired by kind comments on this board, I cobbled together a digest of my disjointed reports and sent it off to my Sailing Association. Not only did they publish in their journal, I also won the Prize for the Best Foreign Cruise Report!! As a Newly Published Author, I am anxiously scanning the post to see if Mann Booker or maybe Pulitzer, have picked up on this....??

Taking local advice, my route has changed somewhat: From Singapore I'll trek over to the Malaysian side of Borneo for a replenishment stop then down to the Solomons/Luisiades area over the top of PNG, before crossing to Australia. I'll probably do a straight shot to Brisbane from there: Much as I would love to do a bit of Barrier Reef Tourism, I don't think I've got the time.

Hopefully a stress-free trip over to Borneo where I'll update. As Ever - If anyone has experience of this route and can recommend any "must-sees" or "must-avoids", I'd be very grateful.

Safe sailing, all. Tony

Great to hear from you again and congratulations on your writing achievements.

The following maybe BS as I have no direct experience but in the past I have advised by others not to go south east down the top of PNG in the dry season (starting now or very soon) as you will 25+ on nose every day. My Cape York experience tends to support this but I repeat I don't have actual experience of PNG and Solomons . That said, it will be quite a windward trip outside the GBR compared with a windward trip inside the reef. At least you can take a breather every now and again inside the reef and fuel up as required.

What is the proposed advantage compared with entry at Darwin and then coastal to Brisbane, just time or weather as well?

[bvimatelot]

Hi Wotname! Yep - even at the last minute i'm still agonising over this decision!! Basically, I'm told that coastal from Darwin to Cape York is going to be brutal at this time of year and still with the chance of "revolvers". And will need tons of fuel. I like the idea of Malaysian Borneo with a couple of replenishment stops but after that - I just don't know the area. Not having the CAIT means I shouldn't go into Indonesia which is a bit of a shame but can't do much about it now.

Open to suggestions!!

[Wotname]

Yes, it will be brutal.

I just had another look at the charts (rather than going on memory) and I see what you are getting at by staying as far north a possible before committing to the southerly vector.

Hopefully you will better advice than just from me but I suggest that once you are are south of say 8 degrees you will in the trades well and truly and they seem strongest between 10 and 15 degrees at least around Qld.

Perhaps across the top of PNG staying close to the equator (say 5 or 6 south at the most) and as far east as convenient and a beam(ish) reach to Cairns rather than hard on the wind to Brisbane.

At least the coastal cruise from Cairns to Brisbane would less brutal than coastal Darwin to Cairns. Plenty of SE anchorages and you pick the times (mainly late night, early morning) when the SE winds sometimes ease to bolt south at every opportunity.

Are you single handed or crewed?

Just my 2 cents!

[bvimatelot]

ai've got one crew and hopefully another joining me half way along. I also see your point about Cairns...which would also give me some GBR exploring! Cheers, Tony

[bvimatelot]

OK - Got to Australia. Route from Singapore was across the top of Borneo to Kota Kinabulu (well, actually we also stopped in Labuan) then down to Ambon, across and through the Torres Strait and now in Cairns.

Absolutely horrible trip!! Rather than detail off the saga, below is a cut and paste of an email I sent to my owner who, by the way, has been magnificent in support!

Leaving for a straight shot to Brisbane tonight - maybe another 12 or so days. No time for tourism I'm afraid.
Beginning of Paste

Singapore – Cairns (via Labuan, Kota Kinabulu and Ambon)


Several things broke and many have been replaced from onboard spares. In no particular order of occurrence.


SAILS: Main. Reefing lines broke several times. Two of them have to be retrieved from inside the boom (will do in Cairns). Currently only have one working reef line which is a pain in the ****.


Clew Cringle Steel Ring. Broke open. So at the moment can only sail with first reef in.
Currently first reef line is semi-perm fixed as of course that is one of the reef lines in the boom!


Jib. Jib Furling Line broke, giving us a very much unwanted full genoa (in rather exciting circumstances, howling gale, middle of the night, heading for a reef!! Only one engine working at the time so had to get the sail down). It also pulled its guide ring out of the deck. I've replaced the line but in the kerfuffle of getting the jib down, we let the halliard disappear through the top mast-head fitting. Will have to climb mast, send down a messenger line and re-fit the halliard (will do in Cairns). The guide ring was badly positioned in the first place, giving a not fair lead to the turning block (which itself is slightly distorted as a result.) It will have to be re-positioned and the original fixation holes sealed to stop water ingress into the fibreglass. The jib is currently hoisted by the Spinnaker Halliard. Luckily it has not been spinnaker flying weather...


SHEETS: Have replaced both jib sheets from onboard line. Main sheet and associated blocks and shackles. We've had continual problems with the Main Sheet arrangement from the Seychelles so its been jury-rigged for the whole trip. Currently down to the last shackle on board which will fit! I only expect it to last till Cairns then will have to get stronger and correct fittings plus a couple of spares. The main sheet continually jumps out of its gripping jaws so one has to choke the luff to keep it in place.


Main Sheet Traveller: Starboard side line has reached the end of its useful life but I dont have the right size cordage onboard. We can live with it but also the end fitting pulley wheel is also just about finished. Anno Domini, I'm afraid.


RIG. Remember that I thought the new Main was cut rather short? Well, I'm now beginning to think that when the mast was replaced, the boom fittings were attached a few inches too low. This isn't completely Singapore's fault as Z Spars had a black tape where they expected the boom to go. As a result, the boom is much lower (MIND YOUR HEAD!) and the mast winches are also lower, making you skin your knuckles when winching anything up. Otherwise, its holding up and has proved itself in up to Force 9 with associated lumpy seas.


GOOSNECK. Not a brilliant job in Singers: The Vertical pin holding the boom to the mast was incorrect. The Horizontal pin is not the right size and incorrect washers fitted. As a result as it “works”, it is elongating its hole. We are doing what we can and being as gentle as possible.


FORESTAY. I noticed that a set screw holding one of the aluminium extrusions together had worked loose. On tightening it up, I noticed that some appear to be missing....another not so good job, Singers.


TRAMPOLINE. Nearly lost it several times! The centre-line ladder with duckboards broke loose (weather conditions). We lost the duckboards but managed to rescue the ladder. The tramp holding rope is broken in several places (age, again) but we've managed to get enough lashings on it to hold for the moment.


ENGINES/ALTERNATORS. As you know, we've had continual problems on both sides. One has to wonder why there were an inordinate amount of engine spare belts and voltage regulators onboard!!


Starboard: Now working OK. However, the fuel line from the tank (copper tubing) detached itself inside the tank which of course was invisible! You can imagine the head scratching that went on whilst tracing the lack of fuel!! Currently using 5 gallon containers with the fuel line secured. This lasts about 10 hours before having to change out. Although a Pain in the ****, I actually dont mind too much as I can monitor the fuel quality since I dont trust the main tank cleanliness! KK sorted out the water pump pulley wheel but there is no way of tensioning it. “McGyvering” it got us to Ambon where we puchased the island's stock of small belts! Actually the one we have on has held up very well! Electrically it is supplying the battery bank and its voltage regulation is fine.


In the cockpit, the Yanmar Starter/tach panel has rotted out. Its clear that the port one has been replaced and its now time for the starboard one. However much we tape it up, any rain or spray gets in and so we have the alarm continually on. Not “alarming”, its just shorting out....annoying.


Port: Engine is good but electrically its a disaster. External regulation failed after the first few hours of running so in the end we have taken the belts off and it is just a “driving” engine. It had also managed to fry its own starter battery which suggests that voltage regulation from the small alternator is bad as well. When required, we start it from the Starboard engine battery.


AUTOPILOTS.


Rather an exciting time when the wheel jammed hard a Port! This of course happened in another howling gale at night with very little sea room to spare. It transpires that the metal bracket bolted to the steering rod (this has a hole drilled into it to accept the autopilot ram arm) had fractured and the ram arm was jamming up the works. The whole set up is behind a panel in the starboard aft cabin. I managed to clear the jam and we hand steered for the rest of the night. Easily fixable if I had a spare piece of metal plate, a drill and a stubby screwdriver!


Wheel Pilot. Tried fitting it the next day and find that yes, it works, sort of, but its belt is stripped (easily replaceable but no spare onboard). On detaching it, its fixing (plastic) fittings broke (age) so, although mendable, currently unuseable.


We are managing reasonably successfully to balance the sails and lash the wheel – enough anyway to be able to leap down to the head for a quick pee. But often for much longer. Doing this on a monohull is considerably easier, I find!


HATCHES. They all leak!! Side hatches when smacked by waves let in gallons. We have to use the large portable bilge pump regularly. The starboard after cabin top hatch tore off its mounting but we have managed to rescue the hatch and jam it back in place.


INTERNALLY. Not a pretty sight, I'm afraid. The big heavy bookcase in the saloon detached and was crashing around the cabin. Its now swimming. (I recall you were going to ditch it anyway!)


All soft furnishings are sodden wet. Both forward cabin doors have come off of their fixings


FRIDGE. Working fine then turned itself off for a day or so. Now back up and running. Mysterious...I doubt it has an automatic defrosting programme!!


STOVE TOP/OVEN. Changed the gas bottle a few days ago for new Singapore gas. Now only one burner will work (but you have to have everything shut or the weak flame blows out). Either the pressure is wrong or something is interrupting the gas flow. Domestically its not a happy scene! Later
its getting worse.


HEADS. The starboard toilet bowl has broken. Not the porcelain (thank goodness) but the base plate.
Luckily no-one was on it at the time... The base plate on the other side is probably on its way out as well.


WATER TANKS. Both filled in Ambon. On changing tanks I find the Port tank drained!! Difficult leak to find, I'm afraid as the tank is glassed in.


INSTRUMENTS. Apart from auto pilots mentioned above, the wind instrument has started to go off as has the depth guage. This is almost certainly dampness.


Not an exhaustive list 'cos I've probably forgotten a couple of things! But enough to be getting on with.


The last leg from Ambon has been absolute hell and morale is a tad low at the moment!! end of paste.


Many thanks for all support and advice so far!! Tony
__________________

[scubascooter]

aaahhh! the joys of sailing!!!

[atoll]

good to hear you have made it thus far!
i guess you wont be hanging around for the refit once you arrive in brizzy!