Propane Outboards

[rassabossa]

re: overheating
Do these outboards not have a overheating alarm/buzzer?

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by rassabossa

re: overheating

Do these outboards not have a overheating alarm/buzzer?

Without an electrical system how do you power an alarm?


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[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Without an electrical system how do you power an alarm?


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All spark ignition engines have an electrical system of course, it's used to run the ignition system, usually magneto

[HopCar]

I don't think anyone makes a small outboard with an audible overheat alarm. They are all equipped with a tell tale water hole. You need to check every so often to make sure the engine is still pissing.

I just finished the little skiff I was building and I put a Lehr 15 electric start on it. I started the engine yesterday and it started right up, ran smooth and quiet. I used both the electric and manual start. The pull cord started is actual easier to use than the 9.9 as the 15 Lehr has an automatic compression release.

I hope to water test the boat tomorrow.

I'll start a thread about the boat. It was a fun build.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

All spark ignition engines have an electrical system of course, it's used to run the ignition system, usually magneto

Ok, what I meant was a useful electrical system.


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[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Ok, what I meant was a useful electrical system.


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Well, Suzuki for one uses it to run their fuel injection system on their 15 and 20 HP and I think it was the only source of electrical power for many years for even big outboards, alternators are a relatively new thing for outboards, they are of course much superior to the magneto, but the mag could be used for things like oil pressure and temp alarms

[zirarzirar]

I agree with the second comment about that

[frenchsailor]

I recently purchased a 5.0 HP Lehr outboard for my dinghy. Runs great and seems relatively quiet and reliable. I would like to find a flush kit that fits over the water intake vents so that I can flush it with fresh water after running in salt water. I have purchased and tried several flush kits on the market, both round and rectangular. All of them seem to big. Can anyone suggest a flush kit that would work? I have been told that the lower unit is the same as a Suzuki.

Thanks!
frenchsailor

[HopCar]

The lower unit is similar to a Yamaha lower unit. It will accept a Yamaha flush adapter that screws into a port on the lower unit. I haven't found an ear muff style that will work.

[frenchsailor]

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the Yamaha kit that fits into the small flush port. I actually purchased and tried one of those. I was concerned, however, that all the water that I put in when I connected the hose just went out of the intake vents that were located below the small flush port where the Yamaha kit connected. No water came out of the small hose on the back of the upper engine that you look at to determine whether the water pump is working properly. I didn't start the engine because I was concerned that with no water to the pump, I may burn out the impeller. I realize it is possible that once the engine started it may be that the water pump is strong enough to pull the water into the engine head rather than out the intake vents, but I wasn't willing to take the chance. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks!
frenchsailor

[HopCar]

This is the one that Lehr recommends.
My guess is that the impeller blocks the flow unless it's turning.
I know several people at Lehr. I'll pass your concern on and we'll see what they say.

[HopCar]

Frenchsailor, I checked with Lehr and the engine does need to be running for the water to get past the pump. Attach the hose, turn on the water and start the engine.

[PPLepew]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

The same way you fill any other propane bottle.

I plan to have 2 1lb cans, both on the dink. They are easy to swap and I can then refill the empty one with an adapter on my 2 20lb galley cans back on the boat, outside of course.

[alha]

HopCar, quick question. I found the concept interesting, so I Googled Lehr, and in the results I saw the 9.9, so I clicked on it and it happened to be sold by West Marine. It was the manual start, but I was interested in it mainly for the reason that it had 3 reviews from current owners, ranging in dates from 6/13-9/14. Turned out that 2 of the 3 had reviewed it pretty poorly, both having similar issues with it not starting, apparently within a fairly short time after purchase. The 3rd guy loved his, and said he would like to have a 100hp version!

So, I guess my question is, as these have now been out for a little while now, do you know if these experiences are exceptions? The newer of the 2 also commented on rusting parts when used in seawater after only a week or 2 of use, and that he'd thought the hardware was all SS. Any info you could share would be appreciated!

[HopCar]

ALHA, the 9.9 is the hardest of the Lehr's to pull over manually. That combined with the probability that West Marine didn't show them how to bleed air out of the fuel line would make them hard to start. The first time I tried to start my 2.5 with a long fuel hose I didn't know to bleed the air out first. I about pulled my arm off. I called customer service, swore bloody hell at poor David, the when I did what he told me to do, it fired right up.

Propane is 110 octane so Lehr takes advantage of this by running them at a higher compression ratio than gasoline engines can. This makes them a little harder to pull over manually. Nobody has trouble with the 2.5 and 5.0 but the 9.9 is harder. I recommend the internal battery electric start on the 9.9 . The 15 has an automatic compression release which makes it easier to pull over but I like the electric start on that as well.