I can answer 1 of 2.
I have been thru the deck several times now on my CT47. That is I cut a hole in it several times, not that it ever got weak or I fell thru!. Mine is about 1/4 inch glass, 3/4 inch foam and then another 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch glass. The foam is closed out at the hull
to deck joint. Look for leaks
here if you have teak, the deck screws go right thru about 1/2 inch glass on mine. (all removed, but I digress).
Occasionally I hit a wooden stringer in the deck foam. I believe that these were stiffeners, probably used near known deck fittings, like my boat has little towers on deck for the stanchion mounts. So there is probably also wood surrounding the hatch
areas for instance, stiffening the area to assist in hinge mounting, etc. I did also hit stringers out in the middle of areas without any particular need for wood, so I think they may run every foot or something like that. My forward head
had no vent hatch, and this was a big improvement to put in a 12 inch square hatch to allow light in and air out of the head! I did not lose deck stiffness here per my observation, I am close to 180 pounds.
The wood used for stringers is not teak, not mahogany, not balsa as some have stated. It seems close to something that I have seen labeled afrimosia. I have used this stuff as a teak substitute, it can get punky after 20 plus years, but my deck made it 30 years before I pulled the teak and filled hopefully all 4000 holes.
Ocassionally my deck actually got water
into it (the damn screw holes) as I worked removing teak. I just let it dry naturally per hot dry and sunny days in California
. The way the water
would go to a low spot horizontally supports the hard wood stringer supposition. The stringers are probably thwartships to help support the deck crown
If your deck is like mine, you can go ahead and fix things as you wish, the deck is well done.
I can guess at number 2
made nice gracefull 45s and 48s. but they were a bit more fine entried (especially in the stern) with deeper fin keels. There is also a baltic
46 where I have seen the hull
referred to as C&C. The baltic
46 seemed to have a flatter bottom and a snubbed out stern, like the CT. So one can suppose that C&C stuck a piece of plywood
in the 48 mold
and did the Baltic and the shorter CTs, and then they added on a bit to allow the CT49 classic transom, but we have to find a guy from the yard to actually know what happened. I do not believe that the sheerline marker can be an accident
or rip off. The flatter bottom can actually be a keel
attachment/encapsulation mod on the fly in taiwan. (or Sweden
I tell people that the hull is a baltic 46 one off imitation with a sheel keel
. The hull will exceed 9 knots with 15 to work with, it is certainly in the mid to high performer range as cruising vessels go. my hull is actually about 46 foot 11 inches of fiberglass. I have also seen this number in documentation
. Mine drew more than 6 foot per the water line paint
, more like 6 foot 8, but she is lighter now with steel tanks
removed, the teak gone, and more like 6 foot 3.