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Old 04-12-2011, 11:11   #1
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Yanmar 30gm30F Warning Lights Replacement with Gauges

I have replaced the oil pressure gauge and the water temp idiot lights with gauges. The original sending units have failed and I ca not get the replacement senders for some time as I am in Mexico. having repalced the sending units with the gauges, both warning lights for the oil and water temp now don't work, as I expected. Problem is the alternator light stays on, very slightly, even with the key is out and the ingratiation off. How can this be and will it cause any further problems? otherwise the alternator light wokrs fine, lighting brightly when key is turned on and goes off once alternator kicks in. What can I do to exstinguish this continuing glowing light?
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:24   #2
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Re: Yanmar 30gm30F Warning Lights replacement with gauges

Gauges and idiot lights have different senders. You can not use one for the other. If you want both idiot lights and gauges you have to run two senders off of each port.

A gauge sender is a variable in oms an idiot sender turns on/off when reaches the desired pressure/temp.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:29   #3
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Re: Yanmar 30gm30F Warning Lights replacement with gauges

i understand that. My question was why is the alternator light staying on, even when the key is off and removed. i included the replacement of the sending units only as info that might have contributed to the problem..
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:40   #4
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Re: Yanmar 30gm30F Warning Lights replacement with gauges

Got distracted and forgot about the alt. Anyway, It's most likely a leaky diode in the alt. You'll want to take it to a shop and have it tested to be sure.
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Old 06-12-2011, 21:53   #5
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I installed gauges in addition to lights, as well as piezoelectric buzzers in different sounds for various functions. For example, above the temp gauge I have two LEDs with different buzzers to differenciate the alarm. One connects to a temp sender bolted on the cylinder head. The other is connected to an Aqualarm flow switch to indicate if a plastic bag has blocked the intake, or that the seawater impeller has thrown a rubber fin. The two alarms tell me whether I need to shut down the engine now, or can I wait a moment.

I also have a Racor vacuum gauge, plus a vacuum switch to warn if the diesel filter is clogging, warning me to switch over to a backup filter.

In addition, all alarms and indicator lamps have test buttons and mute switches inside the electrical panel to reduce the stress when stuff happens.
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Old 12-12-2011, 22:29   #6
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Re: Yanmar 30gm30F Warning Lights Replacement with Gauges

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy M View Post
I installed gauges in addition to lights, as well as piezoelectric buzzers in different sounds for various functions. For example, above the temp gauge I have two LEDs with different buzzers to differenciate the alarm. One connects to a temp sender bolted on the cylinder head. The other is connected to an Aqualarm flow switch to indicate if a plastic bag has blocked the intake, or that the seawater impeller has thrown a rubber fin. The two alarms tell me whether I need to shut down the engine now, or can I wait a moment.

I also have a Racor vacuum gauge, plus a vacuum switch to warn if the diesel filter is clogging, warning me to switch over to a backup filter.

In addition, all alarms and indicator lamps have test buttons and mute switches inside the electrical panel to reduce the stress when stuff happens.
VERY IMRESSIVE
BUT When do you have the time to go sailing??
but honestly, I am impressed.
Your's would be my ideal system if I was brave enough to install it. I have a Racor guage and water temp guages on my Yanmar 30's. I hated it when those idiot lights went off. At least I can now see when an engine is starting to overheat.
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Old 13-12-2011, 20:58   #7
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Re: Yanmar 30gm30F Warning Lights Replacement with Gauges

Paul, who says anything about sailing? Much less being able to work on my own boat in this economy? I am hopeful, and I dream about stuff, but at the moment I am lucky just to run the engine at the dock (under load, of course) and work for other folks.

Actually, though, putting the gauges in is pretty simple. I made a drawing using a simple CAD program, printed it out and pasted it on a piece of plywood, then built it and drilled it. Adding the LEDs is simply drilling small holes. The sensors (on/off switches) and senders (analog gauge stock units) are installed using the original idiot light sensors, installed in a plumbing tee along with the sender. The other stuff (test buttons and piezoelectric sounders) are simply wired in parallel with the idiot lights.
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