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Sailing Drummer · 18-05-2017, 20:02

I'm going to be replacing the wiring to my wind generator. Currently the wires are crimped in butt connectors and whenever I want to remove the wind generator I have to cut the wires and then crimp again when reinstalling it. I was wondering if what's used for solar, MC4 connectors, would work. Or is there a type of connector that is specifically used for wind? I searched Google but could not find any mention of connectors for wind generators. I'd like to be able to remove it for routine maintenance/cleaning and also when hauling out.

Thanks,
Larry

slowpoker · 18-05-2017, 20:27

Hi Sailing Drummer; (both sailing and drumming are my hobbies!) Those MC4 connectors are actually a type of water proof 'bullet type' connectors so they can be taken apart. they seal with a small 'o' ring but they are actually very flimsy and made with very thin metal to crimp around the bare wire ends. (Maybe the ones I bought were not the best grade but you don't know until you start working with them).
Although I have used them, and can take them apart easily as you said you want to do, I have found that if you use regular bullet connectors, put some dielectric grease or even vaseline jelly where they come together and at the crimp after crimping and also slip a 4" long length of heat shrink tubing around the joint after connecting. Then by smearing it with a little caulk, even kitchen and bathroom caulk from a tube before putting a flame from a lighter to shrink around the joint with the fresh caulk, makes a perfectly waterproof and solid connection (not underwater waterproof and neither is an MC4 connector) that you can disassemble when necessary by cutting and peeling off the heat shrink and hardened caulk and replace those when reconnecting the existing bullet connectors. Easier, cheaper, better connection and really waterproof.

Bleemus · 19-05-2017, 05:21

My wind generator is wired with heat shrink butts at the head and I run 10ga wire to the charge controller where it ends with heat shrink ring terminals. There is strain relief at the generator to take the strain off the wires. Simple task to undo the ring terminals and pull the whole wire through the pole.

Sailing Drummer · 19-05-2017, 18:57

Bleemus-

That makes sense but would not work in my situation. The wires run through the arch, into the headliner, behind the side panel, then around some bends, and finally through a bulkhead to the controller! And the wires are supported with wire ties most of the way. But thanks for the suggestion. Obviously making a shorter run to the controller would make it easier!

Slowpoker-

We have much in common. I don't meet many drummers on boats. I'll do some research on bullet connectors to see how that could work in my situation.

Thanks both,
Larry

**Jim Cate** · 19-05-2017, 19:50

Larry, what type of turbine do you have, or more specifically, what is the maximum current that it can generate? Our old Air-X can pump out over 30 amps at times, so one needs to consider this when selecting connectors. Admittedly, this output isn't common, but melting an inadequate bullet connector would be awkward!

Jim

sbender · 19-05-2017, 19:58

I don't see any reason not to use the MC4 connectors. They have been flawless for me on my solar setup. No reason they would not work fine with a wind gen.

Sailing Drummer · 20-05-2017, 17:40

Jim, I have a 2 yr old Air X. The rated output is 400 watts @ 28 mph wind speed. And they recommend a 40 amp fuse. I'm guessing there could be the occasional higher wind speed without it stalling so I would think 40 amps max? That's why I was concerned about the mc4
connectors. I cannot find any info on their rating.

Sbender - what's the output of your panels? My biggest concern is what Jim mentioned.

Larry

john61ct · 20-05-2017, 17:48

The amp ratings for MC4 connectors are sufficient for the corresponding wire gauges: 14,12,18 and 8 GA.

If by "bullet" you mean SAE, universal "2-way flat molded" connectors, they're usually not rated to carry much current.

sbender · 20-05-2017, 18:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sailing Drummer

Jim, I have a 2 yr old Air X. The rated output is 400 watts @ 28 mph wind speed. And they recommend a 40 amp fuse. I'm guessing there could be the occasional higher wind speed without it stalling so I would think 40 amps max? That's why I was concerned about the mc4
connectors. I cannot find any info on their rating.

Sbender - what's the output of your panels? My biggest concern is what Jim mentioned.

Larry

I'm putting 16 Amps through them. (200W/12V)

GILow · 20-05-2017, 18:59

I gave up trying to find decent MC4s for our 30 Amp Aerogen 6 and went with a screw terminal block onto soldered wire ends, which I encased in that weird waterproof electrical tape that feels like it is half way between plastic and cloth. Has held up well so far (approx. 3 years), but is a little unsightly.

john61ct · 20-05-2017, 19:44

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/solar-junction-box

Bleemus · 20-05-2017, 20:41

If it helps anyone I have a Superwind 350 and have the suggested 40amp slow blow fuse just before the controller.

slowpoker · 20-05-2017, 23:11

The 'bullet' type connectors are not flat, but round and come to an also rounded end where it goes into a tubular female socket. They come in different color crimping end insulators where the wire attaches. Some are designed for 10 AWG I think they have yellow plastic crimp end insulators.
I have seen them be used in heavy amperage connections as in engine harness wiring and 12 Volt. sockets where you can plug in those search lights. These 'bullet' connectors are certainly made of heavier metal than the MC4 being used.
Wind generators can produce 40 Amps and need heavy wire to carry that and have low loss on the way. You can use regular butt connectors for that size wire but the thickness of the metal used on those would be the same as for the 'bullet' type that you can pull apart. Certainly, ring type seem to be better because of the screw to tighten, but the wire is connected to any of these type of connectors by crimping and the metal thickness is same or similar whether ring, butt, flat or bullet in my opinion.
Melting would occur if there is a loose or corroded connection and generates heat. Seems to me that A 40 Amp fuse has much less cross sectional metal than the cross sectional metal on a connector's crimp and if in doubt, a drop of solder on each wire crimp would make it even greater but I am not much of an electrical type guy.