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Old 01-04-2008, 08:15   #1
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What type of receptacle for an Air Cond.

I would like to connect my air conditioner through an ac receptacle in my boat. Should it be a twist lock?
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:20   #2
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You need to tell us a bit more about what you are considering. Are you talking about installing another shore power cord or are you just using a standard cord to plug in to an outlet? It makes a big difference.
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Old 01-04-2008, 09:22   #3
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I'm not sure what you are asking. Are you considering an additional power connector in order to power an onboard air conditioning unit? If you want a secure and watertight connection then absolutely, use a standard marine grade twist lock terminal.

Twistlocks are for making a secure connection that don't easily pull out. They are not all the same. They come in all sorts of different "prong" configurations which relate to amperage ratings and voltage ratings. What would be most helpful is to know the voltage, amperage and cycles per second of your air conditioning unit. As long as you have an outlet on the dock that has suitable amperage, voltage and cycles per second, then it should be no problem. You just have to get the correct connectors and the correct electrical cord to hook your air conditioning unit to the dock.

We need more detail on what you have in order to be of help.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:29   #4
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Sorry for the lack of details.

This is the situation: I found out that the previous owner conected the 60 hz,120v, 16000 btu ac unit with a standard domestic type receptacle and upon inspection I discovered that the wires that go from the ac unit to the receptacle are a bit warm. I am sure he got the wire from an old domestic ac unit and used it for the boats ac. Which by the way is installed under one of the inside seating areas.

I am going to replace the receptacle and the wires but would like to keep the cabability of disconnecting the AC unit with some sort of plug. So, my question is: Which type of plug? From the meter readings I can tel the unit has a starting draw of about 20-25 amps and operates at around 11 amps continuosly.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:37   #5
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I use a "Y" adapter on my shore power receptacle input and direct connect my A/C unit to the shore power cord. I've not had time to rewire all the A/C outlets and don't trust the gauge of the wiring to handle the instantaneous amperage when the unit is first started.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:44   #6
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You are going to need to wire it for the starting amperage or there will be too much of a voltage drop at startup which eventually will cause damage to the electrical motor.

Wire-Gauge Ampacity - Transwiki According to the tables, it looks like no less than 10 AWG.

Fortunately, 30 amp/120V dock outlets are pretty common.

Get a 10 AWG dock cord, a 30 amp twist lock terminal connector on your boat and a 30 amp breaker panel inside your boat. Hardwire your air conditioning unit to the breaker panel inside your boat with the correct 30 Amp dedicated breaker to your air conditioner and you wont have to hassle with a Y-connector. This would be doing it correctly and safely as well. Cosmetically, hiding all those ugly wires will make your boat look nicer.
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Old 01-04-2008, 11:50   #7
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Although a locking (twist-lok) connector & receptacle is always preferable to a straight blade device, it’s not at all necessary. Let your conscience and budget decide.
An 11 Amp (running) Air-Conditioner will safely operate on a 15 Amp Circuit Breaker (even /w a 25A start current), with #12 AWG wire (#14 if very short run) to a 15 Receptacle.

You could upgrade to a 20 Amp Receptacle, if you choose.
A 30Amp circuit would be ok, but overdoing it.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:08   #8
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I would agree with Gord on this one. Some like to run a second set of wiring for an AC unit. We run one 30 amp AC line in and break off the AC circuit at the panel for our 16,000 BTU unit. This means we have a breaker on the panel that goes to the control unit. Because it's AC current you should be just fine as Gord indicates. I would be sure to use stranded tinned copper wiring and not Home Depot house wire. Crimp the ends and finish with heat shrink tubing or use the heat shrink spade ends for a real pro job. Tie all the wires so they can't move.

Gord adds:
I should have said the extra things Paul just said. Gord
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:48   #9
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Thanks....

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Old 01-04-2008, 16:05   #10
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Gord, I'd also suggest 20-amp not 15, since a 16,000btu air conditioner is extremely high rating for a machine sold for 15-A service. Here in the US, most home fuse panels use 15A fuses (or breakers) per each circuit, and typically a 13-14,000 btu machine is the largest they'll recommend for a 15A line.

I suspect part of this is because, whether it measures 11A or not, air conditioners are typically used heaviest and longest in the hottest weather--when the capacity of wiring must be decreased for the heat, and the a/c may be running 24x7 for multiple days, really heat stressing the wires. (And, the line voltage is usually reduced in that weather, resulting in the a/c pulling higher amperage again.)

I wouldn't sleep comfortably with that machine on a 15-amp line.
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Old 02-04-2008, 04:33   #11
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Although a 15 Amp circuit (Breaker/Fuse & Wiring) is rated for 12.5A continuous (80% circuit loading), I’d not object to Hellosailor’s conservative advice to provide a 20 Amp Circuit (rated 16 A continuous).
I also suspect the accuracy of an 11 Amp running current specification for a 16,000 BTUH Air-Conditioner, which I’d expect to have a Running Current more on the order of 15 Amps (which WOULD REQUIRE a 20 A cct)
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Old 02-04-2008, 20:21   #12
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Not to steal the thread, but back to the original point: what type of receptacle should one use for high-powered AC devices on a boat?

I'm going to install a couple of AC-powered tankless water heaters for dock-side use, and I intend to eliminate any possibility of corrosion at the AC outlet by replacing the standard AC plug with ring terminals, and the outlet itself with a terminal strip in a protective housing (essentially a surface mount outlet box).

After feeling how hot a couple of extension cord plugs were while working on the boat (due to a bit of corrosion), I think a tight solid mechanical connection will fare much better over time than a friction-held spade connector in an outlet. I'll also do the same with the Splendide washer/dryer, and any future large-load AC appliances.
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Old 03-04-2008, 02:25   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beausoleil View Post
Not to steal the thread, but back to the original point: what type of receptacle should one use for high-powered AC devices on a boat?
I'm going to install a couple of AC-powered tankless water heaters for dock-side use, and I intend to eliminate any possibility of corrosion at the AC outlet by replacing the standard AC plug with ring terminals, and the outlet itself with a terminal strip in a protective housing (essentially a surface mount outlet box).
After feeling how hot a couple of extension cord plugs were while working on the boat (due to a bit of corrosion), I think a tight solid mechanical connection will fare much better over time than a friction-held spade connector in an outlet. I'll also do the same with the Splendide washer/dryer, and any future large-load AC appliances.
Appliances that come with a cord & cap set, for plug-in use, can be hard wired as you describe; but they should have a safety disconnect switch.
As supplied, the appliance can be quickly disconnected (without the use of tools) by removing the cap from the receptacle.

You could substitute a “Horsepower Rated” 2-pole switch, in lieu of the proposed terminal block.
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:05   #14
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Back to the original question.....

Is there a recomended particular plug connection for things like air conditioners, water heaters etc. other than the regular domestic receptacle? Twist on?
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:53   #15
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You can use a conventional 20 amp outlet if it is a plug in style unit, but if it is an installed item then hard wired is the preferred. Both ways would use a breaker. Not having a breaker would be very poor. AC units and hot water heaters would have their own circuit and own switch with a breaker.

This really is not unlike it would be at home. Large AC current devices usually have a dedicated circuit since they can draw more than a normal wall outlet on a 15 amp circuit with other outlets. Using conventional grounded wall outlets on board for small appliances is customary. Sometimes just a port and starboard set of outlets is sufficient.
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