What crimper do you guys use for larger cables?

[evm1024]

Well, we are in the same state (vancouver wa) but too far to drive.

The greenlee works quite well with the Anchor 2/0 lugs.

[hellosailor]

ktp-
I think you are spot on about simply correcting the undependable dies from Horror Fright. Instead of using Mr. Dremel, you might use a bastard file or a diamond file to adjust the die shape bu hand, if the adjustment needed is small.
Or. Check into someplace like emachineshop.com online. They will supply free CAD software that allows you to spec pretty much any part, and then they will machine it and mail it back to you. That would include your choice of die material, cut by waterjet or laser or other means. Certainly not cheaper than "adjusting" the existing dies, but then again...no filing required. And you could always sell duplicates (discounted prices for multiples) to other users.

[Zil]

I have no Ftz 2/0 lugs in the box. But the 4 awg ancor and 4 awg ftz are very close, with the ancor being just a bit smaller outside dia. and just abit larger inside dia. I would email Rod at Maine Sail and get his more expert opinion. I see I got my Ftz lugs from Bay Marine. I must have found them the least expensive.

[moseriw]

Uhh ********.. no do not buy anything it has to be scrap unless you are in the 1500 USD range. I think you do not want this.

SOLUTION: ask a good electritian and lend it for 20 or 50 bucks.

[hellosailor]

"ask a good electritian and lend it"
Really? A well-paid professional with expensive tools, is going to just rent them out to some DIY guy who isn't willing to hire the pro to do the job? Putting himself out of work, and his tools at risk?
I wouldn't insult the pro by asking them to do that. That's what a tool rental counter is for. And, the big box hardware stores don't rent out heavy crimpers usually.

Now, if you buy the fittings or cable at West Marine, the odds are they have a tool on their own bench that they'll let you use for the purchased goods. That's typical West policy, because they figure it is good for the sales side of the business.

[KTP]

We are in Blaine, WA. There really is no good close by rental store or place where I could hop over and get something when I need it. This is a conversion of our sailboat to electric drive so things are not exactly cut and dried on the measurement side, which is why I am starting with 50 foot spools of red and black Ancor 2/0 marine wire and making my own connections. I imagine it will be several days of fitting and crimping, then several trips to Bellingham marine store for some part I didn't realize I needed, then some more crimping, then back to the marine store, with a stop at Chipotles, then more crimping.

Kind of need to own the crimper.

[john61ct]

genuinedealz.com

Superb quality, CS and very reasonably priced.

But measure at least twice

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by john61ct

genuinedealz.com

Superb quality, CS and very reasonably priced.

But measure at least twice

If you happen to be in Brunswick Ga, they are only a couple of miles from the Marina.
Easy to miss though as it’s an old warehouse and has no signs.

[redsky49]

As an alternative approach, the vendor that supplied my heavier cables and lug terminals loaned me a tool for the purpose. My costs were the shipping expenses and a refundable deposit. Couldn't have been easier, and it was actually fun to crimp my own cables.


The tool was very similar to this:





This tool makes an exceptionally strong crimp in under ten seconds, and removes most of the risk of an incomplete or incorrect crimp.
The 12 tons of pressure ensure a compacted crimp without the effort of other methods. Highly recommended!

[Zil]

Could you name the vendor?

[boatnerd]

"Thomas & Betts TBM5 "
is what I've used as a marine electrician. It's a manual racheting crimper and has hex dies from 8 gauge to 750mcm (>4/0). Made in USA. At one time the industry standard. .

When swagging lugs we apply a very small amount of Thomas & Betts "KOPR-SHIELD"conductive paste. It's anti-corrosive and lubricates the wires strands making a perfect connection, better than solder on large cables.

[Pelagic]

I have slowly been replacing all my tools with "Toptul Brand", which are made in Taiwan.

Professional equipment, well made and good value if you buy in Singapore

This is the 7 piece ratchet crimper I have.

https://www.toptul.com/style/frame/m...7986&id=408741

[boatnerd]

Have to correct myself 750mcm is @1" thick wire. I meant 250mcm, a hair over 4/0 for the T&B TBM5.
Don't tell anyone but in a pinch I've had success making lugs with nicopress tools, a hammers and pipe flaring tool, and cheapy hex crimpers. Regardless of what tool you use consider a conductive paste compound(not dielectric). Lots of different brands out there now. Will protect your joint and make connections last longer in a wet oily salty environment.

[GrowleyMonster]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hobart 770122 hammer crimper doesn't make em purty but it makes em strong. Used this for quite some time before finally buying a hand hydraulic one in a nice yellow case with dies for some strange and irritating reason labeled in metric instead of AWG. It makes crimps with "ears", yeah, unless you crimp partway, rotate 60deg, crimp some more, rotate 60deg and then crimp the rest of the way. Me, I don't worry about the ears. The lug isn't going to come off.



Ah I found it. Searched my gmail account for "crimper" but it didn't find it, then tried "hydraulic". Should have just searched my amazon orders. Anyway it is made by Yescom and is like $40 or so. I haven't used it much, maybe 20 or 30 crimps on 2/0 and half a hundred in 4ga, 6ga, etc and seems to be holding up okay. Makes more professional looking crimps than the Hobart "el sluggo" and I can crimp on the boat, or anywhere, without needing my piece of railroad rail anvil and my two pounder.


I mostly use welding cable, size 2/0, for my battery cables and phase cables. I haven't been soldering mine but of course I should, especially since the cable is not tinned. Sometimes I use heat shrink, sometimes electrical tape, sometimes brush-on PVC dope, sometimes just leave them stark nekkid. Depends on where its at. The welding cable is super flexible and easy to work with, and not expensive at all.

[john61ct]

This thread should be split off between those doing it right

gas-tight, milspec pull tests, 100% repeatability

and those who are willing to accept (not) good enough