Volvo md2030 Alternator internal regulator bypass?

[Dulcesuenos]

Volvo Paris Rhone valeo style? Alternator 140 amp. Does anyone know how or have the steps on bypassing the internal reg. I have searched the net no luck (other then leave neville) and none of the 3 alternator shops on the island have a clue. I may just tear down the defective one and see what's different.

[Dulcesuenos]

Anyone, anyone 😅

[kenbo]

I did exactly what you described on a Volvo 2030 but my alternator wasn't a 140A model. If I remember correctly it was a 60A or 65A model.

It was a Valeo and an "A" type so negative control over the field current. So depending on what external regulator you plan on using you will need to approach the issue differently. On mine it was simple once the case was split, easy to see the brush leads. I simply disconnected both brush leads soldered longer wires to both leads with silicone insulated wire and ran them outside the case. I had both a positive and negative brush lead outside the case. The reason for two leads was the 2030 came with a floating ground alternator so I kept it that way...no case grounds at all.

I used a "B" type Ample Power regulator, no issues at all.

Ken

[Dulcesuenos]

Thanks Ken, the current ones (one of which is bad) are grounded at the cases, they have balmar ars5 regulators,

[travellerw]

I'm not sure its worth trying to fix (you will have to decide).. However you can buy a brand new one (with free shipping in the USA) for under $200.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...-d-140amp.html

Heck, if you want the 65A version, you can get them for under $150. Our boat currently has 2 65A aftermarket versions that have been functioning fine for 2 years. Bought both for under $300 including shipping to Puerto Rico.

Google is your friend.

[Dulcesuenos]

Originally Posted by travellerw

I'm not sure its worth trying to fix (you will have to decide).. However you can buy a brand new one (with free shipping in the USA) for under $200.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...-d-140amp.html

Heck, if you want the 65A version, you can get them for under $150. Our boat currently has 2 65A aftermarket versions that have been functioning fine for 2 years. Bought both for under $300 including shipping to Puerto Rico.

Google is your friend.

Thanks traveller, I'm aware of those, not a matter of fixing the old one, I want to fi d out how to convert a new one for er use

Originally Posted by travellerw

I'm not sure its worth trying to fix (you will have to decide).. However you can buy a brand new one (with free shipping in the USA) for under $200.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...-d-140amp.html

Heck, if you want the 65A version, you can get them for under $150. Our boat currently has 2 65A aftermarket versions that have been functioning fine for 2 years. Bought both for under $300 including shipping to Puerto Rico.

Google is your friend.

[travellerw]

Originally Posted by Dulcesuenos

Thanks traveller, I'm aware of those, not a matter of fixing the old one, I want to fi d out how to convert a new one for er use

Ahh I understand.. Now I really wished I would have taken pictures of mine before I replaced them. They had been converted to external regulators (Nextstep) and I changed them back. One Nextstep had failed on one side and the alternator on the other side failed. So I just decided to replace both alternators and put everything back to factory original.

[kenbo]

Originally Posted by Dulcesuenos

Thanks Ken, the current ones (one of which is bad) are grounded at the cases, they have balmar ars5 regulators,

Since you already have one that's been modified for external regulation and are planning on buying a new one, why not open up the old, fried unit and duplicate. I thought you were staring from scratch based on your OP.

Ken

[Dulcesuenos]

Originally Posted by kenbo

Since you already have one that's been modified for external regulation and are planning on buying a new one, why not open up the old, fried unit and duplicate. I thought you were staring from scratch based on your OP.

Ken

I am unsure if the current setup was ever properly working. The alternator was not putting out and the alternator driven tech acting erratically. The testing confirmed bad alternator. However upon opening up this supposedly converted alternator the only difference between it and a stock ir alternator is someone added 1 wire internally from the rectifier bridge to the hidden "R" terminal on the Internal regulator .I'm not convinced this all that was needed to change the "d+" terminal to a field terminal.
The opposite side had the same conversion done supposedly and the balmar didn't even have the field wire connected. Alternator was charging like a stock 60 amp internally regulated unit.
So in essence I kind of am starting from scratch.
Also I've learned the "Volvo Paris Rhone" alternator is really a Delcostyle 3 wire alternator once you remove the spark shielding etc. The Valeo is totally different.
Lots of things on how to make a 3 wire Delco self exciting / 1 wire, but nothing about converting to external regulation, except the leave neville(totally different animal)

[Dulcesuenos]

You can see the jumper wire with the yellow eyes crimped on, vs the new alternator , it's connected to a terminal that wasn't even accessible externally.

[kenbo]

Originally Posted by Dulcesuenos

You can see the jumper wire with the yellow eyes crimped on, vs the new alternator , it's connected to a terminal that wasn't even accessible externally.
Attachment 174938Attachment 174939

Boy are you in luck! No matter what "brand" of alternator they are calling that those are Transpo knock off parts for a Delco SI series alternator.

Here's what you need to do to successfully convert that to external regulation.

Remove the diode trio.
Buy a "dummy" voltage regulator (Transpo part number D101-1D) from a place like Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale
Buy a 210A bridge rectifier (part number DR5056 from same place) that bridge rectifier is too small for a 140A alternator.

The two out pins on the dummy regulator are field and stator to drive the tach. You're done!

Ken

[kenbo]

I don't know if I made it clear enough before, do not put the diode trio back in the alternator after putting in the new dummy regulator and bridge rectifier.

[Dulcesuenos]

Originally Posted by kenbo

I don't know if I made it clear enough before, do not put the diode trio back in the alternator after putting in the new dummy regulator and bridge rectifier.

You did, thanks kenbo, I really appreciate it!!! So I take it whatever was done on the old one with the yellow jumper wasn't doing squat?

[kenbo]

That yellow ring terminal seems to be attached to the backside of the B+ terminal, have no idea why or to what purpose.

[travellerw]

Originally Posted by kenbo

That yellow ring terminal seems to be attached to the backside of the B+ terminal, have no idea why or to what purpose.

The yellow wire is a "sensing wire for correct installation to your split charging circuit"