Originally Posted by Reklobe
. . . I thought my batteries were toast so I got 2 new identical batts (2 westmarine 6 volts combined to 12 volts) and fully charged them. Same problem. I know the batts are hooked up right and work because they show 6 volts each and 12 total. . . .
If you new batteries test at 6.0 volts and 12.0 volts combined they are near dead. You need to invest in a digital voltmeter. A tenth of a volt makes a significant difference.
- - Also battery lugs/connectors need to be examined very carefully. Corrosion
of the lead inside the connector to battery terminal can make an intermittent circuit - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Also the part of the battery lug where the battery cable connects can have internal corrosion
giving the same problem.
- - At the other end of the battery cables
, the same thing, dirty or corroded terminals and connections and even more importantly - loose connections will cause problems similar to yours.
- - An amp-meter in the main feed from the battery to the house distribution panel will show if there is any current
flow when everything is turned off and an abnormal current
flow as one by one items are turned on.
- - Connecting anything directly to the battery, bypassing the main battery switch is also an invitation to problems such as yours. Everything, and I mean everything should be downstream of the main battery switch with its own circuit breakers for wire/load protection. When you leave the boat, each non-essential item can be turned off by its own circuit breaker.