Originally Posted by Rubikoop
My BMV 600 did the same thing. I eventually discovered corrosion on the tiny circuit board that's attached to the shunt. I think there were two small screws on the shunt that remove the "guts" of the shunt. The electronics
behind there were green and fuzzy after about 4 years. Before installing a new shunt I disassembled it and sprayed Corrosion block liberally. Not sure if it helped but I felt better.
You're not seeing amperage and can't do a sync because the display isn't communicating with the shunt or the shunt has failed. Maybe unplug the flat wire and closely examine both ends. Also check the cable along its length to make sure it hasn't been damaged.
I wonder if that's what happened to mine.
My BMV 600 dead failed last year, like every other piece of Victron gear
on board at one time or another.
I checked the cable with a multimeter and found voltage on one conductor, so decided that it was the gauge and not the shunt.
I sent it back to the Victron dealer in the UK, who simply sent me an entire new set with gauge and shunt (I've had a lot of trouble with my Victron gear
, but I must say, the service
and support has always been excellent). I was surprised and disappointed when the new gauge also didn't work.
So I just forgot about it for a while. My new Zeus chartplotter
has a very precise voltage display. With experience, I have been paying more and more attention to voltage and less and less to calculated consumption
Counted amp/hours are compromised as a measure of battery SOC because of two reasons:
1. Because of Peukert's coefficient, an amp/hour drawn quickly draws down the battery more than one drawn slowly.
2. It is really hard to know what your real battery capacity is.
Using voltage is compromised because a heavy load (or charging) will reduce or decrease the voltage compared to the battery's real SOC. But my battery bank is large enough that it is not hard to find moments when there has not been a load on it more than a fraction of a percent of C, and experience has shown me that these measurements are accurate; besides that, any error will be on the conservative side (understating SOC).
I have also learned, from watching the voltage, to see exactly where the batteries are in the charging
process -- important when you are off shore power
and can't just charge and charge for indefinite periods of time.
You can also tell a lot from the dip in voltage from a known heavy load (microwave or kettle through the inverter
, for example).
I've got about a year now with no battery monitor
and I think I don't miss it at all now. I've had the best year ever in terms of electrical
life -- summer cruise
was a month off the grid with five people on board, and we just never lost a single
moment worrying about electricity. My 1 1/2 year old Trojans, which have been killed dead twice since they were new, have more capacity than new according to my Argus battery tester, and are performing magnificently. My Kohler generator
is running perfectly.
So who really needs a battery monitor? I'm not sure it's worth the trouble, once you've learned to read system voltage.