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14-10-2018, 10:36
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 28
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Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
This is coming from a land electrician, so probably naive.
Rewiring a 30 ft wood custom sailboat, and currently putting in wire to cabin lights and fans that will be under the coach deck. 12VDC.
I'm currently planning to jump wires from fixture to fixture and branch off legs from the home run wire. Where a leg junctions to the home run, is it legit to splice by putting 2 wires into one side of a butt connector and 1 wire in the other side, thus splicing the leg into the home run?
I realize that there are 3-way crimp connectors, but I'd prefer to avoid them if possible.
No splices will be under the deck; all splices will be accessible even after the decks and finish surfaces are replaced.
Any and all comments welcome.
Thanks.
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14-10-2018, 10:46
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Oregon
Boat: Seafarer36c
Posts: 5,563
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
I see factory aircraft lighting wired that way.
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14-10-2018, 10:47
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#3
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Port Credit, Ontario or Bahamas
Boat: Benford 38 Fantail Cruiser
Posts: 7,047
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Not a problem if sized and crimped properly. Suggest you use the heat seal butt connectors with the water tight hot melt adhesive inside.
__________________
If you're not laughing, you're not doin' it right.
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14-10-2018, 10:48
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Nice, France
Boat: Hunter Marine 38
Posts: 1,342
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
I see no problem I do this myself. That of course is not significant, but on my 2004 build Hunter marine I found crimp connectors with 2 wires crimped together by the electricians of Hunter. That of course is more significant.
Edit: 3 similar answers in 3 minutes!
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14-10-2018, 11:04
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#5
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Oregon to Alaska
Boat: Wheeler Shipyard 83' ex USCG
Posts: 3,494
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
I've gone to soldier seal connectors. In the past I soldered my connections, but these are easier. You insert the wires, heat the ends to shrink the tubing, then heat the center to melt the soldier. It keeps corrosion out.
I'm old enough and owned some boats long enough to see corrosion creep into terminal connectors over time. That's why I soldier my connectors. Terminals are cheap on ebay.
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14-10-2018, 11:08
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#6
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Writing Full-Time Since 2014
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Deale, MD
Boat: PDQ Altair, 32/34
Posts: 9,559
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lepke
...Terminals are cheap on ebay.
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I tested some e-bay terminals for an article. They looked OK, but the join was terrible. Really scary. I'm sure your hand soldering was MUCH better. If you must use these, buy 3M; they did a good job.
BTW, ABYC does not approve solder-only or solder/heat shrink. Just sayin'.
I'm sticking with crimps.
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14-10-2018, 11:25
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bumping around the Caribbean
Boat: Valiant 40
Posts: 4,625
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Quote:
Originally Posted by chollapete
I realize that there are 3-way crimp connectors, but I'd prefer to avoid them if possible.
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I’m no ABYC expert but I believe they are OK. Some of my cabin fixtures were wired this way from the factory.
Anchor makes some step-down butt connectors which can make this easier, sizing them so the large end gets the doubled wires. However, they are stupid pricey.
I’ve also used the snap connectors, mixing and matching to accommodate doubled wires at one end.
__________________
"Having a yacht is reason for being more cheerful than most." -Kurt Vonnegut
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14-10-2018, 12:01
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#8
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Between Caribbean and Canada
Boat: Murray 33-Chouette & Pape Steelmaid-44-Safara-both steel cutters
Posts: 8,492
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Every change of 3 AWG is a doubling or halving of wire area.
10 = 2x13 = 4x16 = 8x19.
So if I need to T a 16 I’ll use a yellow (10-13) connector. The single leg will get doubled over and then two 16 legs in the other port. Then each port has the equivalent of a 13 AWG wire.
Then I coat with liquid electrical tape.
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14-10-2018, 13:01
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#9
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cruiser
Join Date: Jan 2017
Boat: Retired from CF
Posts: 13,317
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Properly crimped marine grade, heat shrink waterproof butt terminators, asymmetrical if needed,
built-in adhesive-lined heatshrink as primary, liquid tape as additional if needed.
Those who are already expert with solder, feel free if ABYC is not an issue, but adds nothing but problems if the above done properly.
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14-10-2018, 13:12
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami Florida
Boat: Ellis Flybridge 28
Posts: 4,057
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
I hate joining more than two wires with a butt splice. It’s sloppy. I always use a terminal block with jumpers. Makes it easier to repair in the future. This is especially important when you install bilge pumps that need replacement pretty often.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...erminal_Blocks
__________________
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supplies
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14-10-2018, 13:59
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#11
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Boat: Gulfstar Long Range Trawler; 53'; BearBoat
Posts: 1,524
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
I have started using Wago Levernuts for lighting and other low draw circuits. Very, very handy and reusable so if a light has to be replaced, easy peasy.
Here is the link to Amazon: https://tinyurl.com/y94dcsyo
__________________
Charlie Johnson
ABYC Master Technician
JTB Marine Corporation
"The Devil is in the details and so is salvation."
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14-10-2018, 17:12
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#12
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֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 15,136
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Any reason (rashly presuming you are using tinned wire and sealing the connection waterproof isn't a concern) that simple insulated closed end connectors wouldn't do?
Insulated Closed End Connectors
Pop in all three wires, crimp, move on. And use one gizmo to attach that to the bulkhead or overhead or hull, so the hard mass of the connector (which ever kind you use) can't become a vibration problem, of course.
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15-10-2018, 09:35
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 3
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Quote:
Originally Posted by boatpoker
Not a problem if sized and crimped properly. Suggest you use the heat seal butt connectors with the water tight hot melt adhesive inside.
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This is really good advice. I can't think of any reason you would use any other kind of connector in a boat. There is also heat shrink tape I have used for patching nicked insulation when the wire is hard to get at... coat with some silicon and it will last longer than you.
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15-10-2018, 09:47
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Boat: Custom 34 ft., sail-assisted trawler, wood hull, built 2005
Posts: 35
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Re: Using butt splice connectors for 3-wire splices: a naive question
Using butt connectors is an acceptable way to make a 3-wire connection. If all of the wires are the same size, use step down connectors. Size the two-wire group to the larger end and the single wire to the step-down end.
Rudy Sechez
__________________
Rudy and Jill Sechez
Briney Bug-34', wood, sail-assisted trawler
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