| | #31 |
| Registered User ![]() |
I just found this on google. It's a 12v DC-DC power adapter for mac laptops: (review) HyperMac Introduces World's First DC Car Charger For All Apple MacBook Models - Sanho Corporation - pitchengine.com (and sales page) HyperMac Pure DC Car Charger for MacBook For simple straight up 12v DC devices I don't see why you couldn't build your own, but for a computer that is a big investment to be taking a chance on dirty power. |
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| | #32 | |
| ... ![]() Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Currently NZ
Boat: Buizen 48
Posts: 279
| Quote:
You have just re-affirmed what my electronics advisor down here told me just this weekend: Best use the kettle only when you run the Genset in the morning and evenings to charge up your batteries! ![]() Regarding you propane comment, I'm looking for 4.5kg alloy tanks (very light) to replace my 3kg steel (?) tanks. They use to sell them down here, but now only 5kgs are available. Even 4.5Kg was going to be "stretch", with 4kg tanks known to work. Two 4.5kg tanks would increase my propane capacity by 50% over my two 3kg tanks. Any ideas? (probably should start a different thread for this query) | |
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| | #33 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Manchester Washington
Boat: Irwin- Barefoot 37CC (Custom MK V) "Quest"
Posts: 159
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colemj--Mark, Thanks for correcting my inadvertent error. I thought I knew something that I didn't. My bad. Joe S |
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| | #34 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Heading South
Boat: Manta 40 - Reach
Posts: 497
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Hi Joe, Looks like we are now both incorrect! The post above lists an actual DC/DC converter for the Macbook that is new on the market (taking pre-orders). However, it costs $150! I just bought a DC/DC converter for a toughbook display for $18. I am thinking of buying another one, cutting the magsafe adapter off of my current powerbrick cord and installing a standard connection jack on both ends. That way I can plug it into the brick, or into the converter. Mark |
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| | #35 |
| Registered User ![]() |
It couldn't hurt to send an email over to your manufacturer's engineering department to verify the exact electrical input your electronics need before just plugging in. Could be you need a very specific (say 13.7 or something) voltage with a given polarity and amperage and such. Not that that should be too hard to do, but could be better to ask before frying a computer.
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