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Old 01-09-2009, 15:29   #31
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Consider getting 2 200W Kyoceras....you'll never see the difference.
I only found the 205w ($590) and 210w ($580), no 200's. That was from Northern Arizona Wind & Solar. The 210w is less, why do you recommend the 205?
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Old 10-09-2009, 20:07   #32
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balmar mfg...

I am in the process of installing a balmar alternator kit...712. For what its worth, the alternator had a label of mfg. by Prestolite in Argentina. Kinda felt let down, as thought I was buying a "made in USA" product. Hope it functions and has reliability as much as it costs.
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Old 10-09-2009, 23:08   #33
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Nicely done guys, I have a pair of yet unused Bosch 120amp alts on my cummins and am looking at getting bigger 220amp ones to run some toys and was looking at Balmar or ENERGO-TEC but I guess not now eh?

Thanks
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Old 11-09-2009, 05:46   #34
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I've been looking at a webpage at amsterdamhouseboats that describes building an adjustable external voltage regulator. I've found all the parts online and it will total under $20. Looks like worthwhile project that Ill be undertaking soon. Don't know how to paste with blackberry but googling adjustable self build voltage controler should bring it up.
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:02   #35
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I've been looking at a webpage at amsterdamhouseboats that describes building an adjustable external voltage regulator. I've found all the parts online and it will total under $20. Looks like worthwhile project that Ill be undertaking soon. Don't know how to paste with blackberry but googling adjustable self build voltage controler should bring it up.
Self build adjustable alternator controler

Full listing

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=ad...ient=firefox-a
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:35   #36
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Has anybody considered running a 24v 140amp alternator, and then converting down to 12v?

Could this be done?
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:46   #37
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Has anybody considered running a 24v 140amp alternator, and then converting down to 12v?

Could this be done?
Yes, but you lose efficiency

DC to DC converter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:11   #38
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Nicely done guys, I have a pair of yet unused Bosch 120amp alts on my cummins and am looking at getting bigger 220amp ones to run some toys and was looking at Balmar or ENERGO-TEC but I guess not now eh?

Thanks
I believe this is a good product, but with a little research you can find a much cheaper alternative
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:16   #39
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I believe this is a good product, but with a little research you can find a much cheaper alternative
Try Starters, Alternators, DC Motors, Commercial Truck Parts Distributors - Your Starting & Charging Specialists Elreg Distributors Ltd.

They have plenty of high amp alternators to fit your needs.

The fine people on this forum alerted me to the fact that Balmar simply rebrands other manufacturers product. I found the identical part for 1/4 of the Balmar list price.
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:16   #40
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I'm going with C.E. Niehoff. 400A and $1K less than a 300A Balmar. If it's good enough for fire trucks and MilSpec applications, it's good enough for me.

Their smallest is 145A.
Now thats a alternator!

Nice looking unit for sure. Wide foot though won't work for me.

One thing you all haven't addressed is the difference between MSRP and actual pricing online.
For instance, a balmar 120 amp 6 series alternator has a MSRP of $979, yet can be found online for ~$660. Now I don't know if that makes any difference to you or not.
There seems to be 2 questions here.
Balmar doesn't make their alternators others do...
And they jack up the price.
But far as I know, the mafufactors of Balmar alternators are essentialy the same ones we are disscussing, like prestolite, leese neville, etc. So we are good there, no?

The 2nd question is price. So if they jack up the price, is there a value added to their product or not? Also, what about the actual online price, how does it compare to say a non branded leese neville?

I don't think, but I may be wrong, but a standard auto alternator is not up to the task.
The ones for buses, and ambulances, and military seem like they would be.
But finding one that fits in my situation, mating it to a perkins 4-108, is difficult. One thing nice about balmar is they are easy to find the product you need.


One question about alternators that I have.....
If you get a oversized alternator, it still will only give the power the batteries acceptance rate will take, right?
But what about the hot rate vrs the cold rate. After a short time, those puppies get hot. And the output goes down. So wouldn't it be better to size it to the hot rate and not the cold rate?
Also, charging while drawing from the batteries....
If your pulling a large load say running your fridge and freezer compressor, your vhf or ssb, making water with a 12 volt unit like a spectra, fans and lights on, how much more amps can you expect out of a alternator that is say 120 amps and charging a 800 amp house bank that is at say 75%. Usually the alternator will ramp down as it gets closer to 80% on wet cell batteries at least, ( i have TPPL oddessey which can take a much higher charge rate over wet cells) But if you are pulling a fair load, what happens then ? Never tested it before, and now the engine is out and the wires gone... will be a while to check it out....

Bob
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Old 12-09-2009, 19:51   #41
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^^^ Bob-
I'm not setting mine up for lead acid batteries so you're right you should match your alt to your acceptance rate. ( see the Running Two Alternators thread). The Niehoff won't be engine mounted, I'll just keep the stock 140A prestolite that comes with the engine for the secondary. For engine mount you should be able to go up to 200A with either Leece neville/prestolite or PennTex pretty easily. Check with your batt mfr for the acceptance rate of your cells. I'd say size it for the cold rate and put a temp sensor onto the regulator.

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Old 12-09-2009, 20:52   #42
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I am in the process of installing a balmar alternator kit...712. For what its worth, the alternator had a label of mfg. by Prestolite in Argentina. Kinda felt let down, as thought I was buying a "made in USA" product. Hope it functions and has reliability as much as it costs.
Bingo!! Presolite makes Leece-Neville, Prestolite and Indiel alts under the Prestolite Electric family of companies. They make alts in a number of locations all over the world and yes they make alts for Balmar too...
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Old 15-09-2009, 06:47   #43
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Hi Everyone,

I thought I'd throw this out there. I'm not trying to convince anyone that one alternator is better than any other. I'm just putting this out there for anyone who might find it useful, in much the same way that I found the post about the home-made adjustable regulator helpful, thanks!

I think what finally put me over the edge to go ahead with this project was reading about a cruiser in the South Pacific who wasn't able to rebuild his Balmar because he didn't have a high temperature solder iron aboard (even though he had a rebuild kit from Balmar!). I would have heated a nail on the galley stove if it were me but not everyone is me... (and I *do* carry high temp soldering gear!)

Link to an Article at the Lats and Atts Forum concerning building a (moderately) high amp alternator for less than $100.

I was going to just re-post it here but my photos are huge and there are 23 of them with a 20 photo limit here so this is easier.

Also I will *not* build these for anyone else or supply a kit. I'm not here to make a buck, just trying to help out fellow cruisers.

I also have a project in the works to build a remote mount rectifier with it's own cooling fan. I'll post that when/if I ever finish it.

George
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Old 15-09-2009, 07:50   #44
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