Thanks everyone for all the interesting responses.
First I'll apologize if you felt the question should have been posted in an established
lithium thread. I've been doing my
research and searched throughout the forum and hadn't found these batteries mentioned. Since their availability is a fairly new development and their $/kWh is a bit of a
game changer I thought they deserved their own topic.
I welcome all comments, especially the critics, but I'd like to focus on what it would take to put together a safe and reliable system before jumping to a judgment that its not worthwhile.
So a few points made already:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TreblePlink
I would NEVER buy a used battery.
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I would agree with you if I were
buying this pack off ebay from some Tesla that was wrecked in a flood and the condition isn't well known. But these are being
sold by a fairly reputable company in the EV world, and they have a 1 year warranty that should protect you from getting a dud pack. I've emailed them asking for more information on exactly where they are sourcing them and how they are able to guarantee their condition, I'll let you know what I hear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
Tesla packs are designed to be used with a battery management system AND an active liquid cooling system, they are not designed to just plug into an alternator. And that cooling system is also critical. FWIW.
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I do think a BMS will be required as a
safety precaution, but I don't believe active cooling is going to be necessary for the type of loads it will see as a house battery. The pack is rated at 500 amps and meant to run an EV, we won't be drawing nearly as much.
From the site-
"They have an integrated liquid cooling/heating system, but they can also be air cooled in light duty cycle applications."
The fact that they already have the heating/cooling circuits built in is a huge advantage. If for some reason I do find that my usage is
overheating the batteries, the BMS and integrated thermistors will catch it and shut the battery down. Adding a cooling loop isn't as hard or expensive as it might sound. I actually expect low temperature to be a bigger issue when
charging. I'd like to have it set up so that if the battery is too cold to charge, the source is disconnected and the
heating loop is activated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by K_V_B
Tesla uses lithium - cobalt batteries. These have the advantage of providing the highest power density, and the disadvantage of being a real fire hasard if you are not extremely careful. I would not use these in a DIY project...
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I agree this is the biggest downside, but without the lithium cobalt technology we would not have this great
price and size. With this hazard there has to be multiple layers of
safety. The fact that it is a well made, double fused, Tesla battery pack is a great place to start.
The cobalt cells need to be provoked by
charging them to a higher voltage than they are rated in order to combust. So I plan on only using charging source controllers (shore and solar) with programmable voltage limits so that they should never send a voltage higher than the pack limits. I also plan to program them to leave a buffer on both the high and low side of the charge. So if the max voltage is 25.2V then I will set the charge limit to say 24.4V which is about 85% full. This will keep the cells a safe distance form the voltage limits as well as make the battery happy and last longer as it doesn't like resting at full charge. And since I am getting so much more capacity for my
money with these packs, I don't mind giving it a little more buffer than I would with a
LiFePo4 pack.
I think for alternator charging, since I have a 12V vehicle I am going to send the 12V through a small
inverter and feed the AC
current into my
charger which will then convert it to the 24.4V required. I know I am wasting some energy converting back and forth, but it seems to be the safest way to ensure that the charging voltage is controlled (and I plan to only charge off the alternator when absolutely necessary as it is the least efficient of all charging methods)
Then as a backup you have the BMS. If either the charge controllers fail to regulate the voltage, the BMS will identify a high or low voltage threshold set slightly outside the controller limits and open the contactor to the loads or sources depending. It will also
monitor cell temps and balance cells.
What do you all think? Am I missing anything?
Although intriguing, I think we should pivot away from talking about vortices, I already go down enough rabbit holes reading about lithium setups