Originally Posted by chris95040
But the problem is V is very, very, low, because R (by necessity) is very, very low, and then you clumsily send that teeny weeny voltage across a long run of wire to your measuring device. My Link-10's measurement of current
was certainly no where NEAR 0.25% accurate. And I spent a lot of time trying to improve it with different wiring
strategies, changing where I stuck the shunt so it was closer to the link10, etc.
The Link 10 is a very old 8 bit unit that at this point in time, like many Link 10's, 20's, 1000 & 2000 models are experiencing calibration drift
. This is not the fault of the shunt but rather the age and design of the original device.
I have replaced many older Link meters with newer Link-Pro's or even Link-Lite's and once the head
unit is replaced the original shunt is still spot on. If your Link 10 is not delivering a correct amperage reading it has most likely drifted out of calibration, which is not uncommon given the age of the unit. If you stack this on-top of the other snafu's Ah counters have with regard to tracking batteries, you're essentially shooting darts blindfolded......