Separate Yanmar 3JH5E Alternator and Starter Motor

[DeepFrz]

Over kill is an option.

I suppose so but perhaps you could define over kill.

Hopefully you don't mean "best practice".

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

I suppose so but perhaps you could define over kill.

Hopefully you don't mean "best practice".

Here ya go.

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[FlyingCloud1937]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

Here ya go.

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delmarrey,

I hope your neg bus bar, has brass nuts under those lugs, and not SS. Else you risk HR.

Also that it appears as both of the 135 CB have a #8 wire on the bat side that is unfused??? I assume they go to the Yandina Combiner???

I think they should be fused.

I would also dump the wing nuts at the batteries. Wing nuts are for Trolling Motors.

Lloyd

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by FlyingCloud1937

delmarrey,

I hope your neg bus bar, has brass nuts under those lugs, and not SS. Else you risk HR.

Also that it appears as both of the 135 CB have a #8 wire on the bat side that is unfused??? I assume they go to the Yandina Combiner???

I think they should be fused.

I would also dump the wing nuts at the batteries. Wing nuts are for Trolling Motors.

Lloyd

Why would High Reliability be a problem?

But yeah, the Bar nuts have been changed out already. It was just put together for a picture. Even the plastic cover is just sitting there by gravity.

As for the wing nuts, a nut is a nut once it's torqued. I happen to like wing nuts on the posts. If I need to get a cable off in a hurry I can use anything as a hammer to loosen them up.

I would think the internal parts of a combiner would most likely OCV before frying the wire. Besides the Yandina instructions said nothing about fusing the leads but did specify their length as not to be too short (I forgot the actual length).

[DeepFrz]

Del, you do great mechanical work. I have admired the work you have shared with us and admired the way you have posted. You could do mechanical work on my boat anytime, if I had one <vbgr>. But that is really bad electrical work as far as safety goes. IMHO of course.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Del, you do great mechanical work. I have admired the work you have shared with us and admired the way you have posted. You could do mechanical work on my boat anytime, if I had one <vbgr>. But that is really bad electrical work as far as safety goes. IMHO of course.

That's funny, it seems to function just fine even with 2000 amps coming out of the inverter. And the charging system works up to par. I've tested with a lazar heat gun while in op and there is barely any hike in temps.

So, what makes you think it is un-safe?

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

That's funny, it seems to function just fine even with 2000 amps coming out of the inverter.

At what voltage?

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

At what voltage?

The inverter is 125V AC

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

The inverter is 125V AC

I think you missed my point. You posted "...even with 2000 amps coming out of the inverter."

[smac999]

how are you pulling 2000 (watts probably) through a 135a breaker?... 2000 w inverter takes a 300a class T...

though I doubt a pair of 27's would power one anyways.

why do you have 2 neg cables on the battery when you have a neg bar right there? should be one cable off the battery. also the bank should be taken off opposite ends.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by smac999

how are you pulling 2000 (watts probably) through a 135a breaker?... 2000 w inverter takes a 300a class T...

though I doubt a pair of 27's would power one anyways.

why do you have 2 neg cables on the battery when you have a neg bar right there? should be one cable off the battery. also the bank should be taken off opposite ends.

And for the 300 amp fuse suggested the wire would have to be 2/0 (or larger if through the engine compartment).

[delmarrey]

Gees! I have to explain everything.

OK the cables are 2/0 marine grade tinned cables.

The inverter works just fine with the two 135 amp brakers. The #1 braker is for the main batteries (the green ones) and the #2 braker is for the house batteries (2- 6V deep cells) Picture below.

The inverter can work off of the two main batteries, or I can switch over to all 4 batteries, which is needed to pull high amps.

I used two toasters and a coffee maker to test the system for 5 minutes. It brought the batteries down to 11.7 volts in combination.

The neg cable on the left goes to the motor ground. The neg cable on the right goes to the buss bar, which is the ground for the rest of the boat.

And I run 135 amp brakers as a safety buffer.


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[Stu Jackson]

Steve, WADR this thread/topic is, again, reinventing the wheel.

Basic Battery Wiring Diagrams This is a very good basic primer for boat system wiring: Basic Battery Wiring Diagrams

This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring: The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about)
1/BOTH/2/OFF Switches Thoughts & Musings - SailboatOwners.com

Good luck.

Fuse at the battery end.