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Old 14-07-2009, 01:26   #16
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Northeaster,

I understand you are overwhelmed with all the info being thrown at you, but you really should go ahead and make the change. You must understand that the electronics can be damaged in your current setup. The reset you see is caused by an under-voltage protection mechanism inside the electronics.

I think the other posters have sketched the best solution for you (automatic charging relay). The cost you'll just have to bear, it's the price for having advanced electronics like radar aboard: you need to provide them with clean reliable power. There's not much re-wiring to do, it's a quick and easy project.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 15-07-2009, 21:05   #17
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There's not much re-wiring to do, it's a quick and easy project.

cheers,
Nick.
Ha! There's no such thing as a quick and easy project on a boat!!!

Our old water heater died, so I thought I'd go with a smaller unit (Isotemp 40l Basic model) and relocate it as well. The old heater was in a cabinet behind the salon settees, so I thought I'd mount the new one under the cabin sole so we could get back some much-needed storage in the salon. Well, the battery cables were in the way, and the 4" diameter engine exhaust hose was intruding a bit as well, so I spent the afternoon moving them.

Went to mount the water heater, and it still won't quite fit without taking up some much-needed access room to the shaft coupling and stuffing box (I bought some plexiglass as a spray shield to protect the heater). So I'm now thinking I'll mount it next to the inverter in a locker by the companionway. And I'll probably have to replace some straight above -the-waterline thru-hulls for the bilge pumps with 90 degree curved ones so there will be sufficient clearance. So now this "simple project" has grown legs, and it's preventing me from working on my preferred project - the A/C installs... There is no such thing as a simple boat project!!!

Sorry, Northeaster - just giving fair warning!
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Old 15-07-2009, 21:17   #18
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Two things....fire the electrician that wired this up for you.

Second....don't start any electronics until AFTER the engine is running.

In you car,(don't take this wrong), if it is raining and dark.....do you get in, turn the wipers switch on. the radio on and the lights and then start the car?

Why would you powere things up on a boat before you start it?
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Old 15-07-2009, 22:17   #19
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I frequently have to stop my engines while taking scientific samples. This means that I have computers and nav instruments running off the house batteries. I have no generator, all my power comes from my two alternators. It is possible to wire your DC systems so that the house and start batteries are isolated and when you start your engines, it does not drop the voltage down on the house batteries. Also, this can be done so that the house batteries do not draw from the start batteries. It takes two battery isolators to do this. Isolators (large diodes) are instantaneous so they work at stopping the voltage drop and draw from the start batteries. Unfortunately battery combiners are not instantaneous, since they operate off of a solenoid. I make up for the voltage drop across the isolators by putting the alternators voltage sensor wire on the system side of the isolator. The engines ECM modules are able to handle the slightly higher voltage on the alternator side of the isolator.
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Old 15-07-2009, 22:42   #20
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Why would you powere things up on a boat before you start it?
Because it's a sailboat? ...

ciao!
Nick.
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Old 17-07-2009, 17:38   #21
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Hey Chief - I think Jedi got you on that one! Yes, as I am frequently / almost always sailing, I need the instruments on, and then start the engine b4 heading into the dock, or often to anchor.

Re: the "electrican" that wired it... most wiring is original. There definitley have been additions / lots of butt splices, etc, added over the years.

I do plan on at least rewiring the major stuff in the upcoming winter. I may not pull new wire to every cabin light, but plan to at least replace as many spices as possible, with new runs, and replace things like main feeds, etc.

I have already started, by using a proper bus nar for all of the panel DC grounds. they were all just marretted and taped together, etc. Real mess.
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