Original Next Step Model #1019 Regulator

[Eco Voyager]

Hi,

Question 1: I have the first model Ample Power 3-step regulator model #1019. I cannot find any info on the Ample power site about how to install this device. Lots of info on the next Step 2 regulator and even two ways to install them based on year model but nothing about the earlier model. Does any one know what each pin is connected to?

Question 2: I am connecting it to a 55 amp Bosch alternator with internal regulator running through a diode splitter to charge an AGM 70a/hr starter battery and 2 x AGM 6 volt (in series) 200 amp hour batteries (total 200amps 12v). I have a BEP dual sensing VSR in-between. I have 2 x 85 watt solar panels running through an unkown 20amp solar controller which states: float -13.9V, Boost 14.4V, Equalisation 14.7V. I have a 40 amp wind generator yet to connect an have not yet purchased a regulator for this. Can you advise the best way to connect everything together.

I have modest power consumption onboard despite living aboard. No electric toilet, no ice maker, no aircon, manual anchor winch etc, just raw basics that 200 amp house bank can cope with.

Any help will be appreciated.

[GordMay]

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[Eco Voyager]

Thanks for that info but I cannot get into the Ample Power forum without an account and as there are no threads about the 1019 regulator pins i need to open a new thread and cannot do that.

Does anyone out there know which pin goes to what on the old Ample Power 3-step regulator #1019 ie prior to the #2021 and the NS2?

Can I link in any battery temp sensor or must it be the specific one?

[smac999]

first step you can't connect it to that alternator without removing and modifying the alternator to accept an external regulator. (field input) alternator shops can do this

2nd. why do you have a vsr and a diode block? get rid of that diode block.


connect the solar and wind direct to the house bank. fused and with controllers.

[smac999]

do you have a pic of the reg? I'm guessing it's labled no? power, ign, ground, field, temp. maybe a parallel which wouldn't be needed. shouldn't be too hard. once you have a field connection on the alternator.

I'm guessing you'd need the right temp sensor. but I don't know. it should work without it, just won't cut back if batteries get hot.

[CarinaPDX]

Hang on and I'll scan in the manual.

I have two of them, now for sale. My new Volvo has an incompatible alternator, so they are surplus to requirements. They have worked well through the years. One I used for the alternator and the other for solar panels (max 10A). That way I always had a backup for the alternator regulator.

The units use a voltage sense at the battery. With a diode isolator (what I used for years, and again for sale) I just ran the sense to the house battery. It isn't optimal for the start battery but perfection isn't necessary - it has worked well. The sense lead does have some device in the end which is supposedly static sensitive; I have never had a problem handling them. Then again, I don't recall ever getting static on the boat...

I'll start digging for the manual and scanner - it happens soon or not as I'm leaving tomorrow for a few days.

If you have any further questions just ask.

Greg

[CarinaPDX]

OK, got the info.

The 2 units I have are 1021A models; 1021 is for up to 200A alternators and 1019 is for up to 130A alternators. The "A" designation is an upgraded design which exchanges pins 1 and 2 from the original design. So please check carefully for the "A". Aside from the higher current rating the 1019 and 1021 should be the same. The 10A max current rating for use as a solar regulator is for the 1021, not the 1019.

The little device on the end of the sense lead is temperature sensitive, so the sense voltage is modified to correct for battery temperature. It should always be the last thing to connect when hooking up and the first thing to disconnect when changing anything. It is required. I would be very surprised if you couldn't get one from Ample Power. Or you could buy my 1021A units (sorry no extra sense devices).

Personally I have been happy with using isolation diodes; they do waste a little energy (not really enough to worry about) but provide protection to the batteries from a shorted alternator/wind generator/solar panels and are very reliable. Otherwise put fuses in the circuits if using a battery combiner or one of the smart controllers for protection. Don't design a system that requires manually switching the batteries to charge them: eventually you will forget and get caught out.

Greg

[Eco Voyager]

Hi Greg,

Thanks so much for that detailed info and the uploads which i will download and peruse tonight. Are you offering the whole 1021A regulator or just the temp sensors? Can i use a 1021A temp sensor on the 1019 model. As my alternator is small i don't actually need a larger regulator.

I plan to run the sense lead to the house batteries as i am not a big fan of running engines just for charging and if there is any wind at all i will be sailing even at 1.5 knots!! current allowed for!

Should I keep the isolator? Should i replace it with the VSR or maybe use the vsr and the isolators even though i will get that small voltage drop?

I am now considering getting a C-tek duo250S split charger which handles solar/wind/alternator - all three! If I did this would i chuck the 1019 and the isolator and wire in somewhere the VSR? Just too many scenarios here

Using what I have would be the best solution as my finances are at a premium at the moment.

Thanks for your comments too, SMAC999. Attached is a photo of the 1019.
Cheers,
Colin

[CarinaPDX]

Sorry for the delay - busy here.

First, I will sell the 1021a regulators including the sensors - I have no spare sensors.

Because I had two regulators, and hence two sensors, I put one on the house bank and one on the starter battery and paralleled them, which should have caused them to regulate to the higher voltage (usually on the starter battery). I remember it was recommended that I wire it that way, but haven't given it a thought since then. It seemed to work fine.

I have always used separate isolator diode packs for the alternator, wind generator, and solar panels. The alternator and wind gen diodes are silicon junction diodes, and the solar panel diodes are schottkys for lower voltage drop. The advantages to the diodes are that they require no manual intervention to assure that both banks get charged, they are very reliable, and they prevent shorts in the source from dumping battery current back (and potentially start a fire). They are inexpensive as well. The downside is a small loss in efficiency, and the regulators must sense voltage at the batteries. If you have diodes, and you want to keep the costs down, just use the diodes.

It is very tempting to feel that you need the latest and greatest solutions, but that simply isn't so. The concept of "good enough" is appropriate. A basic multi-step regulator for the alternator is worth installing, not just for the faster charging but for the better care of the batteries. I also like using diodes rather than counting on remembering to rotate the selector switch. A basic solar charge controller is also needed to prevent damage to the batteries, and something similar for the wind gen as well. Beyond that there are modest gains in efficiency to be had, but at a price. If money is tight: don't spend it. You don't need a battery combiner, or an MPPT controller for the solar panels, or even a battery monitor (just keep an eye on the voltmeter!). Down the road you can upgrade if some money is burning a hole in your pocket.

Greg