Professionally I have several Flukes, Aglients , ( all good) , a Uni-T , ( reasonable crap ) and an assortment of lots of older stuff
* don't look for a one meter does everything , get what you need ( and understand) for your use today , if that's basic DC AC then that's that
* buy a specialist or fancy one( or more) if and when you need them and you understand what you need
* for a good basic DMM , autoranging, peak hold and a latched continuity buzzer are useful. Try and ensure its in a rugged protective bumper. I have a fluke 77 for this type of stuff , on the go for 20 years , replace battery about every 5 years
* I prefer clamp probes , but get a clamp meter. NOTE be careful , the cheap ones are current
transformer based and can't measure DC current, yet the say they can , but its using probes like a DMM. I've met more people with clamp meters that say they can measure DC, when in fact they can't. A DC clamp meter must be Hall effect and these are generally characterised by a smaller clamp jaw ( though that's changing )
* specialist meters can measure AC peak , RMS , watts , capacitance etc etc , get one only if you need it.
* I have a data logging DMM, 4000 point store , I find that useful for trend analysis.
* 2nd hand flukes can be picked up on eBay. Just like IBM, you'll never get fired for buying
a Fluke !
* an infrared thermometer is useful on a boat , try to get one with a small " dot" size , the smaller the better , the cheapies have large dot sizes ( ie the focal area) are arnt that useful. ( even if they seem to work )
* calibration is not needed on DMMs for typical non precise work upto 2 significant digits as a general comment. Maybe as your first electronics project
you could build a simple voltage reference ! , most cheap DMMs can't be calibrated anyway and the sophisticated ones are done digitally.