Marine Electrics Newbie Need Help Setting Up Shore Power

[davenrino]

Aloha, I have a lot of questions. I do not have any AC power to my 1969 Cal-2 30 moored in a slip with both 30A and 50A shore power. I would like to set up shore power to keep my batteries up and power a small 110/12v refer. I will list the components I have found and would appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Plug
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

CB Panel. This-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
Or-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Right now I think I only need 3 CB for charger, refer, couple outlets. Are the extra CB slots more useful than the voltmeter? I am also going to install a couple cabin fans. Is there any reason to go 110/12v to use the fans at the dock or is it better to use 12v fans powered from the house bank.

[davenrino]

I have 2 new 90AH deep cycle grp 27 batteries for the house bank -
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...24?recordNum=9

I was thinking of adding this to start my Volvo MD7A -
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...24?recordNum=9

Is there any problem using this charger for all three or do I need a duplex charger for the House and a separate charger for the start since they are different types of batteries? -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Is this wire adequate or should I use 12awg? -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[NYSail]

Learned to sail on a cal 2-30..... fast great boat! You will get great advise.... 30 amp service.

Greg

[davenrino]

The PO says he installed a higher output alternator on the Volvo MD7A, but doesn't remember the output. Should I have the alternator charge just the start battery or can the charge go through a selector to charge Start, House or both?

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by davenrino

Aloha, I have a lot of questions. I do not have any AC power to my 1969 Cal-2 30 moored in a slip with both 30A and 50A shore power. I would like to set up shore power to keep my batteries up and power a small 110/12v refer. I will list the components I have found and would appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Plug
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

ok

CB Panel. This-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
Or-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Either will work. If ABYC compliance is important I believe you need meters for both volts and amps.


You may want to consider a galvanic isolator, to reduce the chances of damage to metal parts of your boat while on shore power for an extended time.

Right now I think I only need 3 CB for charger, refer, couple outlets. Are the extra CB slots more useful than the voltmeter? I am also going to install a couple cabin fans. Is there any reason to go 110/12v to use the fans at the dock or is it better to use 12v fans powered from the house bank.

You can use 12v fans.


I use a plug-in voltmeter on my RV, much cheaper but perhaps not as accurate and probably not in compliance with various official rules.

Originally Posted by davenrino

I have 2 new 90AH deep cycle grp 27 batteries for the house bank -
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...24?recordNum=9

I was thinking of adding this to start my Volvo MD7A -
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...24?recordNum=9

Same batteries then for house and engine. Those will work fine. Mine are similar but are group 24 so they will fit the space I have available

Is there any problem using this charger for all three or do I need a duplex charger for the House and a separate charger for the start since they are different types of batteries? -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

It will work ok. Main drawback of cheap chargers like that is that you have to run them overnight to get a full charge. They will also tend to overcharge in hot weather, and undercharge in freezing weather. In most cases this don't matter much

Is this wire adequate or should I use 12awg? -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

For the shore power connection? Depends on whether it is in a dry location or not, and whether it's in the engine room or not. There's a table here: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...ence/21731.pdf - dry and outside of an engine room you can get away with 14, wet and inside an engine room you have to use 8, etc.

Originally Posted by davenrino

The PO says he installed a higher output alternator on the Volvo MD7A, but doesn't remember the output. Should I have the alternator charge just the start battery or can the charge go through a selector to charge Start, House or both?

I use a selector switch. Remember not to turn it off while the engine is running as doing so has a pretty good chance of damaging the alternator. There are also automatic battery isolators that eliminate the need for the switch, that may help you avoid depleting your start battery by mistake because you left the switch set wrong.

[Stu Jackson]

In addition to the detailed help you;ll get here, you may be interested in learning from these:


https://marinehowto.com/


Electrical Systems 101
Good luck.


Calder's book is very helpful, too. Boatowners Manual for Mech and Elec Systems.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by Jammer

ok





Either will work. If ABYC compliance is important I believe you need meters for both volts and amps.


You may want to consider a galvanic isolator, to reduce the chances of damage to metal parts of your boat while on shore power for an extended time.






You can use 12v fans.


I use a plug-in voltmeter on my RV, much cheaper but perhaps not as accurate and probably not in compliance with various official rules.





Same batteries then for house and engine. Those will work fine. Mine are similar but are group 24 so they will fit the space I have available







It will work ok. Main drawback of cheap chargers like that is that you have to run them overnight to get a full charge. They will also tend to overcharge in hot weather, and undercharge in freezing weather. In most cases this don't matter much






For the shore power connection? Depends on whether it is in a dry location or not, and whether it's in the engine room or not. There's a table here: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...ence/21731.pdf - dry and outside of an engine room you can get away with 14, wet and inside an engine room you have to use 8, etc.








I use a selector switch. Remember not to turn it off while the engine is running as doing so has a pretty good chance of damaging the alternator. There are also automatic battery isolators that eliminate the need for the switch, that may help you avoid depleting your start battery by mistake because you left the switch set wrong.

Thanks for all the answers. I really appreciate the help.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Main drawback of cheap chargers like that is that you have to run them overnight to get a full charge. They will also tend to overcharge in hot weather, and undercharge in freezing weather. In most cases this don't matter much

AS I said I am a Newbie and thought the ProMariners were pretty good. It never gets to hot in Hawaii and it sure as hell shouldn't ever freeze here at sea level.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

In addition to the detailed help you;ll get here, you may be interested in learning from these:


https://marinehowto.com/


Electrical Systems 101
Good luck.


Calder's book is very helpful, too. Boatowners Manual for Mech and Elec Systems.

Thanks for all the info, Stu.

[ozsailer]

G'day Dave,
a couple of things, I will preface this by stating I am a electician here in Australia and our voltages are different from the States but the basics are identical as is the potential for disaster if you get it wrong
1) 110 volts as opposed to 12 volts is a very different animal. The current in 110 will seriously injure or kill if you get it wrong.
2) Wiring is different with diffent gauge or wiring and insulation required.
3) here in Australia there is a whole set of standardised rule for the installation of this type of wiring.
4) Here in OZ the active and neutral must be isolated at the switching point which requires trhe correct power points and switches to be used. This covers the posiblity of an extension lead being wired incorrectly and the neutral being switched leaving the active alive at all times.
5) 240/110 breakers need to be totally isolated from 12 volt systems and clearly marked.
There is a lot more which cannot be covered in such a short space.
I have seen way to many handy man electrical jobs done and it still astounds me how few deaths there have been from incorrect installations. Do yourself a favour and get a qualified person to do the work for you. It may save you a lot of grief.


Greg H
Lagoon 440.
Blue POINTER

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by ozsailer

G'day Dave,
a couple of things, I will preface this by stating I am a electician here in Australia and our voltages are different from the States but the basics are identical as is the potential for disaster if you get it wrong
1) 110 volts as opposed to 12 volts is a very different animal. The current in 110 will seriously injure or kill if you get it wrong.
2) Wiring is different with diffent gauge or wiring and insulation required.
3) here in Australia there is a whole set of standardised rule for the installation of this type of wiring.
4) Here in OZ the active and neutral must be isolated at the switching point which requires trhe correct power points and switches to be used. This covers the posiblity of an extension lead being wired incorrectly and the neutral being switched leaving the active alive at all times.
5) 240/110 breakers need to be totally isolated from 12 volt systems and clearly marked.
There is a lot more which cannot be covered in such a short space.
I have seen way to many handy man electrical jobs done and it still astounds me how few deaths there have been from incorrect installations. Do yourself a favour and get a qualified person to do the work for you. It may save you a lot of grief.


Greg H
Lagoon 440.
Blue POINTER

G'day Greg,
Thanks for the reply. You are correct that I am not a qualified electrician, but I am also not a dummy. I won't do anything unless I am absolutely certain it is correct, so you can rest easy. Like my Father, I have never called an electrician to work on any of my homes over the last 40+ years. I was an airline pilot for 30 years and had to become intimate with many very complicated electrical systems. I think my chances of surviving my electrical work are much greater than your chances of flying a wide-body aircraft across the Pacific. Thanks again for your concern.

[Tillsbury]

You might (should) find that you can't connect to the marina power without an electrical certificate, and you can't get one of those without an electrician doing the work. What you can do is but the chargers and breakers and install those unwired. You could also run cable to where it needs to go. Beyond that, get a sparky to do it.

I wouldn't want to stay in a marina that didn't insist on electrical safety certificates for all boats, as your dodgy wiring can damage my boat.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by Jammer

ok

You may want to consider a galvanic isolator, to reduce the chances of damage to metal parts of your boat while on shore power for an extended time.

I will look into that. Any recommendations?


Same batteries then for house and engine. Those will work fine. Mine are similar but are group 24 so they will fit the space I have available

Oops, I copied the wrong link. This is the one I was thinking about, so they aren't the same.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...-DY-_-PDP-Test

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

You might (should) find that you can't connect to the marina power without an electrical certificate, and you can't get one of those without an electrician doing the work. What you can do is but the chargers and breakers and install those unwired. You could also run cable to where it needs to go. Beyond that, get a sparky to do it.

I wouldn't want to stay in a marina that didn't insist on electrical safety certificates for all boats, as your dodgy wiring can damage my boat.

Great idea . Thanks

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by davenrino

AS I said I am a Newbie and thought the ProMariners were pretty good. It never gets to hot in Hawaii and it sure as hell shouldn't ever freeze here at sea level.

Can't see your links because West Marine have blocked access for Europeans.

However, the Pro Mariner series (badged Sterling in the UK) are good marine battery chargers.