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Old 28-07-2009, 06:18   #1
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Jabsco - Model 37010-Series Help Needed

My toilet keeps blowing the fuse when I switch it on. I have taken the entire toilet apart, removed the motor/macerator pump. I have greased the impeler and reassembled multiple times. Each time I re-install the assembly I flip the switch and it blows. Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Old 28-07-2009, 06:47   #2
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Do you have a multi meter?
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Old 28-07-2009, 06:56   #3
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Originally Posted by Tellie View Post
Do you have a multi meter?
Yes it has a fresh water and holding tank meter


This is what it looks like but has 2 buttons 1. Holding Tank and 2. Waste
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Old 28-07-2009, 07:06   #4
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<grin> Sorry, I meant a Volt/ohm meter. If you instantly blow a fuse each time you hit the switch, chances are good you are probably dead shorting somewhere. But there are other things to check as well. Every boat should have a decent multimeter-Volt/ohm meter aboard. Do you know how to use one? The basic usage is quite simple to learn and will reveal quite a bit of information when trouble shooting an eletrical problem. You can't just say "I'm blowing a fuse where exactly is my problem". It's a bit more tricky than that.
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Old 28-07-2009, 07:09   #5
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when you had it apart did you try the motors by hooking to a power source. On our's there is a slotted shaft on the end of the motor,(opposite end from drive shaft), and some times I have to take a screw driver and turn it!
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Old 28-07-2009, 07:39   #6
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TELLIE: Ok I was wondering why you were asking about the tank meter but thought you knew something I didn't. ;o) I am fairly certain that there is not an electrical shortage because it did work at one point in time when I first bought the boat. The problem was that my lovely wife used regular toilet paper and the macerator blade got wedged. Thats why I disassembled it in the first place. After that I re-installed it and it worked for about 1 second and then the fuse blew. I took it back apart numerous times afterwards and then finally greased the impeller. My last attempt! I think the motor within the pump assembly is burned out.

JUSDREAMING: There is a slotted end on the motor that you can turn. It does turn but not easily which leads me to believe the motor is burned out, but no I have not hooked it up to a power supply outside the boat assembly.
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Old 28-07-2009, 07:57   #7
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OK... Just came across something that actually makes sense. In the manual it has the electrical specs. I have the 12V version which it states to use a 25 Amp Fuse for it. When I bought the boat it had a 5 Amp Fuse for the toilet. I have always been weary of putting a larger fuse where a smaller fuse once was but should I do that and try out the toilet?
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Old 28-07-2009, 08:10   #8
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GADawg --

I am more familiar with those toilets than I care to be! They actually draw quite a bit of current when started, so yes you do want the correct size fuse or breaker.

Second, using a screwdriver in the slotted end on the motor, it should turn easily, especially if it is otherwise removed from the toilet. If it doesn't, then you have quite likely had a leaky seal and water has gotten into the motor and rusted it. If this is the case, you can either buy a new motor (not cheap) or, depending on how bad it is, take it to an alternator shop and see if they'll rebuild it. You'll probably need new bearings, but they're standard size.

But first, I'd suggest that you first put in the correct size fuse/breaker and see if that does it.

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Old 28-07-2009, 10:11   #9
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My senses always perk up when a PO puts in either an oversized fuse or undersized fuse. First thing I'd like to know is the wire guage and length. I agree with Intentional Drifter, a 5amp fuse won't last long in this application regardless.
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Old 28-07-2009, 10:29   #10
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Tellie is absolutely correct and I should have thought of that. The wire should certainly be the correct gauge -- 12 if I recall correctly for a 15 foot run, but the instruction manual should tell you. Also, look closely at the wire, itself. This is a wet environment and it should be tinned. If you're seeing black gunk or the wire crumbles, or there are splices, then you're going to get voltage drop and resistance. Lots of times, it is better to just replace the wire if it is looking like this, and may well save you time.

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Old 28-07-2009, 11:54   #11
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so I went to the boat and threw a 25 amp fuse in. The good news is that it is not tripping the fuse anymore. Now when I flip the switch it just does nothing except light up the rocker switch. I am at a loss. HELP!!!

BTW.. The wires are 15 gauge.
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Old 28-07-2009, 12:15   #12
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Quote:
The problem was that my lovely wife used regular toilet paper and the macerator blade got wedged.
Unless she put a whole roll in I'm not seeing how that would be the reason. Putting anything other than waste and paper in the toilet can cause a problem. Regular paper is not a problem. It is the other things that might end up in there that really will make life a bad dream.


Quote:
The wires are 15 gauge.
How long would the wires be? At this point you might want to trace all the wiring to the head and make sure there isn't any other creative wiring done for your future entertainment. It's stuff like this that is responsible for 80% of all the boat fires. Now that you have replaced the 5 amp fuse and can now run a full 25 amps you have loaded the weapon. Check to see if it has been spliced or damaged in any possible way.
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Old 28-07-2009, 12:24   #13
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Start back with the basics and get a diagnosis. Get a multimeter, VOM.

1. Disconnect the motor -- no need to pull it, yet.
2. Test the leads to the motor and verify that you're getting 12+ volts when you hit the flush button. If you don't, then you know have a problem somewhere in the wiring to the motor. (your batteries are charged, right?) Work you way backwards from the motor until you find the problem -- likely a bad wire, loose connection, frayed somewhere, etc. Depending on the wire run, this could take awhile and you'll be glad you've been doing your yoga!
3. You can test the resistance of the leads to the motor, but unless it is open (close to, or at infinity ohms) this won't tell you much. If it is open, then you already know your motor is bad.
4. Take the motor off and remove the macerator blades, etc., so that you just have the motor. Using the screwdriver on the slot at the end of the motor shaft, does it turn easily? With nothing attached, it should turn quite easily. If it doesn't, then you've got corrosion at least in the bearings and the motor internals may be corroded, too.
5. If it does turn easily, then hook it up directly to a 12 v battery and see if she spins. There should be a fair amount of torque to it -- enough that if you don't hold it firmly, it will want to jump out of your hand.

I'm assuming here that you were quite careful to clean out the gunk around the macerator housing. If not, you could also have calcification from the sea water building up and stopping it from spinning freely. That stuff is remarkably tough if you let it get a good start. If you have calcification, then clean all those parts up real good. You can use vinegar, ascetic acid (hull cleaner), lemon juice, etc. For the housing itself, make a poltice of vinegar or lemon juice on a paper towel and let it sit in there -- for an hour, at least. Then, using an appropriate tool, get all those parts nice and clean.

So, here you are, you've got a few possibilities: Something blocking the motor from spinning (hence, the cleaning); A bad motor (hence, removing and testing it); Bad wiring to the motor. Of course, you could have more than one of these problems, too!

Hopefully, it is not the motor, as they aren't cheap and usually aren't stocked at your local boat shop. If it is the motor, be sure and verify the part number -- it should be on the motor. I found PumpVendor is Your Source for Marine Pumps, Industrial Pumps and Pump Parts to usually have Jabsco stuff in stock and be less expensive than West Marine, Defender, etc. Even then, it could be $150. I ended up buying a new motor and then taking my old one to an alternator shop, where they rebuilt it for $40. It is now my spare.

Hope this helps.

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Old 28-07-2009, 12:50   #14
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The toilet paper thing I think was a contributing factor but as you state not the root cause. I say that because I basically had to chisel a paper wad from between the housing and the blade. Before it started blowing the fuse it was at the point that I am back at now... Doing nothing but not blowing the fuse. Prior to me tinkering with the pump the wires were not spliced nor damaged. I do have them spliced now since the wiring is soldered onto the motor. I did not want to break that connection. However I have them spliced together using a sleeve, crimped and 100% covered with electrical tape as to not spark a fire in anyway.
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Old 28-07-2009, 13:09   #15
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Sounds like the motor shaft may have gotten bent. That seems a bit unlikely, it is a pretty robust shaft, but possible! Have to test that motor and see if she'll turn.

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