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Old 28-07-2009, 14:16   #16
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I did a check the replacement motor with shaft can be had for $127 on Amazon. It does not look that robust to me. The shaft could get bent. Should be easy enough to test it without removing it as noted above. Seems like the first thing to check.
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Old 28-07-2009, 17:22   #17
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The toilet paper thing I think was a contributing factor but as you state not the root cause. I say that because I basically had to chisel a paper wad from between the housing and the blade. Before it started blowing the fuse it was at the point that I am back at now... Doing nothing but not blowing the fuse. Prior to me tinkering with the pump the wires were not spliced nor damaged. I do have them spliced now since the wiring is soldered onto the motor. I did not want to break that connection. However I have them spliced together using a sleeve, crimped and 100% covered with electrical tape as to not spark a fire in anyway.

OK, first re-read Intentionals Drifters "Start back with the basics" post. (He can come and fix my heads anytime <grin>)
Secondly, and please take this in the context it's meant. After reading the highlighted part it's time to get some help. We all start somewhere, I suggest Nigel Calders book on electrical wiring. He really breaks it down in easy to understand concepts. 15 guage wire? Usually you see electrical guages in even numbers. Even if you have the odd 15 guage wire it is certainly not big enough for a 25amp circuit. Follow the wire back a little further and see if you can't read a better number on it.
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Old 28-07-2009, 17:48   #18
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Tell you what, Tellie, we'll work out a trade, but since you get to work on clean water, I figure there should be a substantial differential for that. Say, 3 hours of watermaker fixing to every 1 hour of head fixing! How's that?

ID

P.S. Nigel's book is really excellent, GADawg. I'm really doubting that you have 15 gauge -- I don't think I've ever seen such a thing. The bigger the wire, in diameter, the smaller the number. Make sure what you've got is big enough for the length of run. There should be a table in the instructions, if not, refer to Nigel, there's one in there.
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Old 03-08-2009, 06:43   #19
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Thanks all for your advice... I took the motor back off and tested it at my house. No go... The motor seems to be completely locked down. It is ten year old and not used very much in the past. Figured $127 for the new motor was worth the investment. I am waiting for it to come in and I will install it without any splices and put back in the 5A fuse which is what the fuse panel calls for to see if it will work. If not I will jump back to the 25A fuse as the OEM specs call for. It will be a week or so before I get it in so I will let you all know.

P.S. In the mean time I have removed the 25A fuse (unloaded the gun).
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:20   #20
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Sounds like you are focusing on the wrong issue here. Not to disagree that sound wiring is essential but it sounds like you forgot there are two pumps on this puppy, the intake and the macerator.

Since you get nothing (from either), why focus on just the macerator?
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:34   #21
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Sounds like you are focusing on the wrong issue here. Not to disagree that sound wiring is essential but it sounds like you forgot there are two pumps on this puppy, the intake and the macerator.

Since you get nothing (from either), why focus on just the macerator?
Actually it's a single motor assembly. The motor shaft first has a housing for the impeller for the intake (water) and then at the end of the shaft is the macerator and output drain to the holding tank. Please let me know if I am missing something here.
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:44   #22
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GADawg
Just a little help since you are still thinking 5amp fuse

The electrical specifications for your unit are as follows.
Your unit has a 16amp draw at 12Volts
The correct size fuse is 25amp
Wire size is important. You need to determine the length of the wire.
Length of run is determined by total distance from the power source to the head and back again to the source.
0-10' feet the wire size needs to be #12
10'-25' wire size needs to be #10
25'-40' wire size needs to be #8
40'-60' wire size needs to be #6

I only mention this because there seemed to be a bit of confusion before. It doesn't take long for the wire length to add up. Good Luck and let us know how it went.

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Old 03-08-2009, 07:48   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GADawg View Post
Actually it's a single motor assembly. The motor shaft first has a housing for the impeller for the intake (water) and then at the end of the shaft is the macerator and output drain to the holding tank. Please let me know if I am missing something here.
My mistake, sorry. I am not familiar with that type of Jabsco and didn't know such a thing exists.
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Old 13-08-2009, 11:00   #24
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All,
Thanks for the help with the toilet issue. Special thanks to Paul. I bought the new motor and installed it last night. The toilet works perfectly now.
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Old 19-08-2009, 07:29   #25
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If your Jabsco ,maybe other brands too, mascerator motor jams up there is a slot in the back end of the motor shaft, you can fit a screwdriver there and usually loosen up the jam manually then let the motor take over.
If your wiring or fuse size is undersized you will be doing this often.
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Old 08-10-2012, 19:41   #26
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Re: Jabsco - Model 37010-Series Help Needed

I have a rusty jabsco of The same model, tok it apart, changed impeller and seals ans it still does not turn easily. Probably it is rusted, as the housing got lots of rust.
Do any of you know if there is a cheap manual pump I can replace it with. It seems like the 37010 jabsco toilets got a sole that can be changed to a manual pump without me needing to buy an entire new toilet. I want a simple and reliable way to flush that does not include wires and batteries.
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Old 08-10-2012, 20:12   #27
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Re: Jabsco - Model 37010-Series Help Needed

If this would fit it would be great. Amazon.com: Jabsco 29040-3000 Marine Manual Marine Toilet Pump Assembly Kit (29090- Series): Sports & Outdoors any experience with it?
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