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squaw999 · 12-06-2018, 02:49

From 2 solar panels ( 2 x 200 W), i am getting 13-14 V (charger outpout) but 0.1 Ampers? Charger input 20 V.
I should get about (2x5) 10 A on sunny day.

sailormed · 12-06-2018, 02:54

What is the load that is hooked up to the panel output? What is the charge status of the batteries? What are the settings of the controller?

squaw999 · 12-06-2018, 02:59

Load is frig only (approx. 3-4 A). Charger shows, battery full although voltmeter indicate 12.1-12.4 V. Controler is set up for Li-Acid baterry (i have 2 these batterise 2x160 Ah). Last summer everthing was fine-i have electricity for small village

.
Tnx

Sailmonkey · 12-06-2018, 03:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailormed

What is the load that is hooked up to the panel output? What is the charge status of the batteries? What are the settings of the controller?

This.

If your batteries don’t need any current, they won’t take current.

squaw999 · 12-06-2018, 03:04

I think i do not have enough current (to start frig (danphos) i must start engineen. After initial start, frig works OK (thermostat switch off/on normaly).
Tnx

**skipmac** · 12-06-2018, 03:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaw999

From 2 solar panels ( 2 x 200 W). I should get about (2x5) 10 A on sunny day.

Actually from two panels of 200 W each, 400 W total you should get 25-30 amps maximum under sunny conditions IF your batteries are at a low state of charge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaw999

13-14 V charger output but 0.1 Ampers? Charger input 20 V.

How are you measuring the output volts and amps? Are you using a built in battery monitor or a hand held voltmeter? Are you sure of the measurement of 0.1 amps only?

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaw999

i am getting 13-14 V (charger out put) but 0.1 Ampers? Charger input 20 V.

By charger I assume you are referring to the solar charge controller. What brand and model do you have? Is it programmable?

squaw999 · 12-06-2018, 03:46

VOTRONIC MPP 250 DUO DIGITALA

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ID: 171537

**skipmac** · 12-06-2018, 03:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaw999

I think i do not have enough current (to start frig (danphos) i must start engineen. After initial start, frig works OK (thermostat switch off/on normaly).
Tnx

Refrigerators are very sensitive to low voltage. I had problems when I first installed mine and was sure it was something else but on advice from experts I used new wire and connectors from my batteries to the fridge and the problem was solved.

So the fridge can be a good test of low voltage but you need to isolate the cause. It could be the charger but also it could be the wiring. To help determine a few questions could help

1. Does the fridge work normally if your batteries are fully charged (without the engine or any other charging like a generator turned on)

2. Have you inspected the fridge wiring for loose connections or corrosion at any terminals?

Here is a test you can try. Fully charge the batteries by the engine, a generator or shore power, then turn off the charging for an hour. Then test the fridge. Does it start normally? Check the voltage at the battery and at the fridge when you try this test.

squaw999 · 12-06-2018, 03:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac

Refrigerators are very sensitive to low voltage. I had problems when I first installed mine and was sure it was something else but on advice from experts I used new wire and connectors from my batteries to the fridge and the problem was solved.

So the fridge can be a good test of low voltage but you need to isolate the cause. It could be the charger but also it could be the wiring. To help determine a few questions could help

1. Does the fridge work normally if your batteries are fully charged (without the engine or any other charging like a generator turned on)

2. Have you inspected the fridge wiring for loose connections or corrosion at any terminals?

Here is a test you can try. Fully charge the batteries by the engine, a generator or shore power, then turn off the charging for an hour. Then test the fridge. Does it start normally? Check the voltage at the battery and at the fridge when you try this test.

Tnx. I will do that. I am also suspicious about my wiring. A did some check-my amateur logic was, if am getting appropriate voltage, than wiring is ok.

**skipmac** · 12-06-2018, 03:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaw999

VOTRONIC MPP 250 DUO DIGITALAAttachment 171537

If I read the labels on the charge controller correctly it is rated for 250W, 15 amp maximum so your 400 W of solar panels exceeds the rating of the controller.

It is possible that

1. the controller has been damaged by over current

2. the controller might have a protective circuit that is shutting it down to avoid damage.

3. The fuse could be blown

I would first check the fuse, then disconnect one panel to make sure the input is at a level the controller can accept and check again. Also feel the controller to see if it is very warm or hot.

squaw999 · 12-06-2018, 03:58

I have 2 panels, each 100 W-together 200 W

**skipmac** · 12-06-2018, 04:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by squaw999

Tnx. I will do that. I am also suspicious about my wiring. A did some check-my amateur logic was, if am getting appropriate voltage, than wiring is ok.

When I had a fridge problem I checked the voltage at the wiring right at the fridge and it looked good so I thought not a voltage problem. However, new and larger wires with new crimp connectors from the battery directly to the fridge the problem was solved.

What I learned, the initial current to start the fridge is very high, much higher than the steady current when running. When the fridge compressor tries to start there is a very short time, micro seconds, where a high current is needed and if the voltage and wiring isn't perfect it will not start. The time is so short you cannot see this on a normal meter (I know I tried). If you start the engine the higher voltage from the alternator can be enough to overcome the problem but only as long as the engine is running.