How do you Crimp #8 AWG Terminals?

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

three, two are crimped and one is soldered on.

The soldered on one will break off and one crimped one has gas tight legs and the other doesn't

[s/vPainkiller]

OK since this thread has run it's course I have a related question:

What is the "right" way, and if any different, what is the usual way of connecting a 6 ga wire to a 10 ga wire. I haven't found butt connectors that do this. Do they exist?

Thanks in advance,
Scott

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by s/vPainkiller

OK since this thread has run it's course I have a related question:

What is the "right" way, and if any different, what is the usual way of connecting a 6 ga wire to a 10 ga wire. I haven't found butt connectors that do this. Do they exist?

Thanks in advance,
Scott

One would not normally do this because the entire circuit would have to have overcurrent protection suitable for 10 gauge wire.

I have seen step down butt connectors but not that size and not to span that range. The "right" way would be to install a terminal block and use ring terminals of the proper size on each conductor. Put the ring terminals over the stud or under the screw and your done. It should be an insulated terminal block if it's for "hot" wires.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by rwidman

One would not normally do this because the entire circuit would have to have overcurrent protection suitable for 10 gauge wire.
.

Is that a problem? On most marine instalations voltage drop would dictate that the maximum current caring capability of the thinner wire was well above maximum current requirement of the attached components.

[CharlieJ]

This is not an unusual scenario. For instance, voltage drop requirements may lead to AWG 2 to provide power to a bilge pump (3% voltage drop required device) far from the source. Large bilge pumps typically are factory wired with AWG 14 pigtails. I install two power power posts with #10 studs; put ring terminals on the AWG 2 feed and the AWG 14 pigtails and run them to the power posts. The OCPD at the source is sized IAW the pump manufacturer's specification.

[s/vPainkiller]

Originally Posted by rwidman

I have seen step down butt connectors but not that size and not to span that range. The "right" way would be to install a terminal block and use ring terminals of the proper size on each conductor. Put the ring terminals over the stud or under the screw and your done. It should be an insulated terminal block if it's for "hot" wires.

Thanks. The reason I ask is that I am about to install a solar set up. I am using 6 ga wire for the long run. The Blue Sky manual says to use 10 ga wire at both ends to connect to the panels and to the controller. Thanks for the tips.

Scott

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by s/vPainkiller

Thanks. The reason I ask is that I am about to install a solar set up. I am using 6 ga wire for the long run. The Blue Sky manual says to use 10 ga wire at both ends to connect to the panels and to the controller. Thanks for the tips.

Scott

You're welcome. If the reason for using #10 wire at the panels and controller is so it will fit in a connector or terminal, you may be able to forget about the slice and just remove enough strands from the ends of the # 6 wire so it will fit into the connector.

It's important that I said "may". Without actually seeing the devices, I can't say for sure.

[s/vPainkiller]

Originally Posted by rwidman

You're welcome. If the reason for using #10 wire at the panels and controller is so it will fit in a connector or terminal, you may be able to forget about the slice and just remove enough strands from the ends of the # 6 wire so it will fit into the connector.

Could there be any *other* reason for the #10 wire other than fitting into the connectors? I can't see any reason why it would be necessary if I used a small enough terminal size that didn't interfere with the other connections.

Scott

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by s/vPainkiller

OK since this thread has run it's course I have a related question:

What is the "right" way, and if any different, what is the usual way of connecting a 6 ga wire to a 10 ga wire. I haven't found butt connectors that do this. Do they exist?

Thanks in advance,
Scott

I don't know what the "right" way is, but one way that would work is to crimp on a ring terminal for a #10 screw to each wire, and then join the ring terminals with a short machine screw and nut. Put some shrink tubing over the whole affair to insulate it.

[Reefmagnet]

Wire nuts. Kidding. (*** ducks for cover ***)

If you strip back a good length of both wires and place 2 suitably long pieces of heat shrink along the 6g wire (one bigger in diameter than the other so you can shrink the bigger over the slimmer. Now Twist the 10g around the 6g (like a "Y"), hit them with a decent iron and solder. Heat the copper wire towards the end of the twist until the solder is melts from the heat in the wire, not the iron. after a few seconds the solder will flow like water into the twist. Let cool and use side cutters to trim and shape the soldered twist section. Bend the twisted and soldered part back along the 10g wire. Slip the slimmer heatshrink over the joint and shrink into place. Do the same with the other piece of heat shrink. Job done.

Optional: If you are paranoid about your soldered joint fracturing (which it wont in 99.99% of applications), tape a pair of chopsticks along the length of wire adjacent to the soldered connection.

(*** ducks for cover.....again ***)

[jgbrown]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

Wire nuts. Kidding. (*** ducks for cover ***)

If you strip back a good length of both wires and place 2 suitably long pieces of heat shrink along the 6g wire (one bigger in diameter than the other so you can shrink the bigger over the slimmer. Now Twist the 10g around the 6g (like a "Y"), hit them with a decent iron and solder. Heat the copper wire towards the end of the twist until the solder is melts from the heat in the wire, not the iron. after a few seconds the solder will flow like water into the twist. Let cool and use side cutters to trim and shape the soldered twist section. Bend the twisted and soldered part back along the 10g wire. Slip the slimmer heatshrink over the joint and shrink into place. Do the same with the other piece of heat shrink. Job done.

Optional: If you are paranoid about your soldered joint fracturing (which it wont in 99.99% of applications), tape a pair of chopsticks along the length of wire adjacent to the soldered connection.

(*** ducks for cover.....again ***)

Insufficient specifications. What type of tape required? Can I substitute bailing wire to secure chopsticks?

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by jgbrown

Insufficient specifications. What type of tape required? Can I substitute bailing wire to secure chopsticks?

In normal circumstances insulation tape, but the budget conscious may want to use old video tape - Betamax preferably. Definitely DO NOT use bailing wire as it is conductive. In the absence of chopsticks, chicken thigh bones can be used, although they should be cooked and de-fleshed first.

[seandepagnier]

you can use bolt cutters and don't go all the way through

using a hammer is also possible. A vice may produce a nicer crimp. For both of these you need to use a "die" to put the pressure in the right away

This is crude but effective way to crimp huge wires. The idea is to put enough force to form gas tight area, even if it is a small area, which is why the edge on cutters can provide this.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

In normal circumstances insulation tape, but the budget conscious may want to use old video tape - Betamax preferably. Definitely DO NOT use bailing wire as it is conductive. In the absence of chopsticks, chicken thigh bones can be used, although they should be cooked and de-fleshed first.

Bailing wire is actually a lot better - lowers the resistance of the splice

[S/V Alchemy]

Some of you guys are no longer being serious...