How do you Crimp #8 AWG Terminals?

[hellosailor]

How are you differing between "terminal" and "lug" ?

And is that old Ancor hammer tool a staking tool, or a real compression crimper?

[wingless]

The tool I use for larger crimps is the Molex 64001-3900. It works for 8AWG to 2AWG, on both insulated and uninsulated connectors.

This tool does a very nice job on these crimps.













The tool I use for right angle Faston flag connectors is the Panduit CT300 crimper.

It does a very nice job on these crimps.








The tool I use for the smaller red / blue / yellow crimps is the Xcelite ECP-100 Ergo-Crimp Plus tool.

[pbiJim]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

NASA, USAF, AMP (connector manufacturer) all rate crimp connections more reliable than solder.

This has been my experience too, provided that the crimp was made tight enough.

The expensive controlled cycle crimp tools, like the ratcheting ones, will make a good reliable crimp if they are used with the correct terminals that they were calibrated for. If you use a different brand, style or type of terminal, then all bets are off.

I've been surprised at the good results that I've seen from some of the ugly crimps that have been made with a hammer & an anvil.

I also find that squirting some RTV into the joint before crimping helps to slow the onset of corrosion in a salt water environment.

[pbiJim]

Originally Posted by s/vPainkiller

OK since this thread has run it's course I have a related question:

What is the "right" way, and if any different, what is the usual way of connecting a 6 ga wire to a 10 ga wire. I haven't found butt connectors that do this. Do they exist?

Thanks in advance,
Scott

There are a couple of reasonably good options. Ring terminals have been covered. Terminal strips have been covered. Soldering has been covered. Another option would be a type of crimp connector that looks like a wire nut but is actually a crimp on type. Another option would be to use a 6ga butt connector & on the 10ga side, use extra strands of wire to fill in the gap.

[rickee]

Found a great 8 gauge crimper from Ancor Marine available through the Walmart mail order site. They let you do free local pickup. The Ancor crimper 703010 does the standard red, blue and yellow coded crimps of insulated connectors as well as 8 gauge for heavier wire for trolling motors, so it won't be a one-time use tool. Sets with a ratchet so you don't over-crimp. Ran a little over $50. I was impressed.

[rickee]

A real compression crimper.

[sailorboy1]

I got tool off Amazon last week. It appears to do up to at least a 1/0 was $28.80. Worked fine for the number times I need crimp #8 and larger


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[hellosailor]

Rickee-
Walmart online wants $63 for that tool this morning. They must love you better.


Sailorboy-
Beware of "it looks like" crimpers from any source. Many of them look good, but the crimp won't hold your weight if you try to make one. A lot of the no-names from China simply don't meet any known size spec for any wire, they'll be marked in mm2 but sold as AWG and not match any sizes correctly.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by janice142

Exactly! Yes, I know a Proper Tool for the job would be best, but this is the real world, and I'm cruising on a budget. There is no way I could justify that kind of cost (or even $50 for a Harbor Freight special) for something to be used once -- especially since I can "make do" with a pair of vise grips. .............

You are not "making do" with a pair of vice grips, you are setting your self up for failure. A much better plan would be to either rent the proper tool for the occasional use or pay a pro who has the proper tool to crimp your connections.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by pbiJim

..................

I also find that squirting some RTV into the joint before crimping helps to slow the onset of corrosion in a salt water environment.

It won't corrode but it's an insulator so that's not a great solution.

[Jsta_Rebel]

Old thread with new posts, but I would like to contribute. Any wire size over AWG 10 Should be soldered into a plain copper butt connector and heat shrunk with good epoxy coated shrink tubing. Never wears out, easy enough to do, and perfectly water tight even if submerged.

[barnakiel]

I at times try to overcrimp with the smaller tool. This seems to work when you can afford less than optimum wire size.

b.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Jsta_Rebel

Old thread with new posts, but I would like to contribute. Any wire size over AWG 10 Should be soldered into a plain copper butt connector and heat shrunk with good epoxy coated shrink tubing. Never wears out, easy enough to do, and perfectly water tight even if submerged.

The reasons not to solder have already been covered. Perhaps you didn't read them or perhaps you didn't believe them.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Rickee-
Walmart online wants $63 for that tool this morning. They must love you better.


Sailorboy-
Beware of "it looks like" crimpers from any source. Many of them look good, but the crimp won't hold your weight if you try to make one. A lot of the no-names from China simply don't meet any known size spec for any wire, they'll be marked in mm2 but sold as AWG and not match any sizes correctly.

Also be very wary of certain American companies painting the same yellow crappy tool that Harbor Freight sells blue etc. and charging 3X as much. No difference other than the paint color & pricing.

I know the factory in China making 95% of the "hydraulic" crimp tools out there and they are all the same mismatched mystery die sizes no matter which one of nearly 80 "brand names" are applied to the same hydraulic crimp tool...

[Jsta_Rebel]

Originally Posted by rwidman

The reasons not to solder have already been covered. Perhaps you didn't read them or perhaps you didn't believe them.

Considering I'm an electrical engineer and also considering that you can take three wires. one wire, two wires crimped, and two wires soldered using tin non acid core solder of equal lengths, and run equal tests testing voltage drop and resistance both under load and static,

No. I don't believe them because I generally believe science. But thanks for sharing.