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fairbank56 · 11-02-2012, 05:36

The LCD module is connected to the main circuit board via a flat ribbon cable. The problem is poor contact between the pads of the ribbon cable and the board receptacle. Lever up each end of the receptacle to release pressure on the cable and pull it out. Lightly clean the pads of the end of the ribbon cable with contact cleaner. You may also need to get a little contact cleaner inside the receptacle. Fully dry each with heatgun/hairdryer before reconnecting. Be careful when doing that as you don't want to overheat the ribbon cable. I always use Caig cleaning products. This has worked every time on several different gauges for me.

Eric

SailFastTri · 11-02-2012, 07:50

Thanks Eric -- I think you might have saved me from buying another hour meter

HopCar · 11-02-2012, 08:05

My hour meter is turned on by a pressure switch activated by oil pressure. When there are a few pounds of pressure it completes the circuit and when the pressure drops below that it turns off.

Capt.Don · 11-02-2012, 08:54

I never thought about this - if the hour meter is run by 12v when switch is on, then to calibrate, would I leave the switch on, engine off, for the proper number of hours? My hour meter differs from the actual engine hours by 114. 4 3/4 days later this would be correct. Is this the proper way to align actual hours with meter?
Don

terrym · 23-12-2012, 12:49

Further to this thread - my Yanmar hourmeter has stopped indicating (3yrs old with 370hrs). Can anyone advise exact fix and how to disassemble the tacho. I have looked at the tacho instrument. It has rectangular nylon wiring connection mounted on back and a number of machine screws. I don't want to damage it.

ALLAN WARD · 15-01-2013, 13:13

Howzit Impi , l know where you hail from boet. Have you sorted out your hourmeter problem yet ? I have the same problem although l have since fitted a second hourmeter which is working fine connected to the same terminals as the original Perkins unit. My original packed up after 106 hours . I checked the supply voltage at the terminals powering both units and it measures 6,6 volts and yet the non standard one works fine.Let me know .

MarkSF · 15-01-2013, 13:56

Here's how I fixed my hourmeter - also covering a hole where a defunct control box for the IMI electronics went.

$20 on Ebay, and another $20 for the voltmeter.

ALLAN WARD · 16-01-2013, 01:27

Many thanks for the pic Mark. My new hourmeter is working well but as Impi says it would be nice to get the original Perkins unit in the panel working as well.The supply voltage to the terminals which powers the tach/hourmeter fluctuates around 6,6v but it doesn't seem to affect the operation of the aftermarket unit which is connected to the same terminals.

impi · 25-01-2013, 21:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALLAN WARD

Howzit Impi , l know where you hail from boet. Have you sorted out your hourmeter problem yet ? I have the same problem although l have since fitted a second hourmeter which is working fine connected to the same terminals as the original Perkins unit. My original packed up after 106 hours . I checked the supply voltage at the terminals powering both units and it measures 6,6 volts and yet the non standard one works fine.Let me know .

Hi Allan ... LOL
Sorry about the delayed response ... been cruising the Excuma island chain in the Bahamas and internet is shocking here so been a bit inactive on the forum ... probably to the great relief of some

Our hour meter seems to have come back and is working for the time being so going on that old saying 'don't scratch where it don't itch'. I like the feed back we are getting here though and I certainly am going to follow the advise next time it is down. Thanks for the info and keep in touch! Cheers

ALLAN WARD · 26-01-2013, 05:51

Howzit Impi , my thinking is that depending on the voltage supply from the circuit that is powering your tacho/hourmeter off the engine's electrics, that affects the workings of both . At idle rpm my revcounter needle often jumps from 0 to 750 until l put a little revs and then it is steady. I have noticed that this normally occurs if my batteries are fully charged from my shorepower/battery charger supply . It might be worthwhile now that your unit is working to check the supply voltage and if it stops operating again check and see if possibly the voltage has dropped . As l mentioned previously my supply voltage fluctuates around 6.6volts. Sounds like you are enjoying the good life , take care .

MrMac · 02-04-2013, 06:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by fairbank56

The LCD module is connected to the main circuit board via a flat ribbon cable. The problem is poor contact between the pads of the ribbon cable and the board receptacle. Lever up each end of the receptacle to release pressure on the cable and pull it out. Lightly clean the pads of the end of the ribbon cable with contact cleaner. You may also need to get a little contact cleaner inside the receptacle. Fully dry each with heatgun/hairdryer before reconnecting. Be careful when doing that as you don't want to overheat the ribbon cable. I always use Caig cleaning products. This has worked every time on several different gauges for me.

Eric

Eric,

Thanks for this info. I have had an intermittent problem with my LCD display for engine hours as well. I have checked all external connections, and there is power to the unit. Also, engine hours seem to be continuing to accrue even when the LCD is blank, so no issue with not getting my hours on the engine, but I'd like to fix it. As to the internal ribbon cable, I would love to get at this thing, but I can't open the case of the C-type tach/hour meter gauge. Seems solid plastic. Can you give a little "how to" on getting that gauge open?

Thanks!

fairbank56 · 02-04-2013, 08:30

Haven't done one in a while. Take the screws out of the back, take the lenses off of the front, remove the guts. This is the only model I have done the repair to.

Eric

MrMac · 02-04-2013, 08:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by fairbank56

Haven't done one in a while. Take the screws out of the back, take the lenses off of the front, remove the guts. This is the only model I have done the repair to.

Eric

Thanks Eric. I'll give it a shot. No doubt that it's a bad connection. Seems very hard to get the lens off, however. Is it sealed with some kind of rubber calking? Do you have to use a razor blade? The last thing I want to do is break the thing...

Chris

fairbank56 · 02-04-2013, 10:23

Is yours like the one in the photo? If so, just rubber rings and two separate lenses as I recall. If it has the large black bezel on it, that can be a real bear to get off requiring a couple of strap wrenches and brute force to turn.

Eric