If you were to hire me to do electrical
work on your boat it only comes in one flavor and that is tinned wire and sealed terminals and wire. It would also be wired to meet current
ABYC E-11 standards as best as possible. If you want it done any other way I would kindly decline the job and suggest you to call someone else, done this many times.
I have seen the benefits of both tinned wire and adhesive lined heat shrink crimp terminals and as a result that is all I will install these days. I have seen the failings of the other methods but the best combination I have seen used is tinned wire/adhesive heat shrink crimp.
FWIW I can buy tinned UL1426 rated marine
wire for about the same as un-tinned wire meeting all other UL1426 parameters, stranding, jacket temp etc. etc.. I find the value of this basically "free" tinning quite beneficial.
One thing not often discussed is that using non-marine wire it will be very difficult to find a "duplex" jacketed pair wire that even meets UL1426. I really prefer to use duplex paired wire as the jacket makes for a nice neat install plus gives the added benefit of extra abrasion & water
I would also suggest that you look beyond Ancor brand as I find it to be over priced re-badged product. For example WM sells 1/0 battery
wire for $11.00 per foot. I pay about $3.20 per foot for 1/0 tinned marine battery
cable. Both Pacer and Berkshire make excellent tinned UL1426 marine wire and Berkshire even makes some of Ancor's stuff, last I knew.
IMHO Ancor's terminals have become quite low quality over the past few years. Their battery lugs, in-particular, are a joke compared to the Quick Cable lugs I use and they cost about 400% more..
If you can find a local dealer for FTZ connectors they make excellent heat shrink crimps that should be able to be purchased for about .30 - .40 cents each. I believe they invented the heat shrink crimp and they go by the trade
Genuinedealz.com also has some excellent prices on UL1426 wire. I believe they currently sell Pacer wire but may be mistaken on that. I have my own distributor from Berkshire wire and don't buy from them but they do have a great rep...
Interestingly enough I ran the numbers on a 18-20K complete re-wire last year and the difference in total job cost between heat shrink crimps and open style insulated crimps was slightly over $100.00 on an 18-20k job. Heck, on a job that big you'll spend more than that just in zip ties.
It's your boat and your decision. Only you can decide what is a "value" to your wallet. It seems from reading your responses you may have already decided and are now possibly looking for support for using one over the other rather than both together? I'm sorry to say but you won't get that support from me. I see them more like a socket and a socket wrench in that you really need both to do the job right.
I'm fairly certain others will chime in and support your position, if that is what you are really after, so just hang in there.