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Old 13-12-2011, 06:11   #16
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Re: Heart Interface Freedom 20 and a Link 2000R

New Question. when entering battery capacity do you use the capacity of one battery our in my case all six battery's. I have 6 6 volt trojan 105's each has a capacity of 225 amps 6 total have a capacity of 675 which figure to I enter in to my Link 2000r.
thanks for you help
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Old 13-12-2011, 06:30   #17
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Re: Heart Interface Freedom 20 and a Link 2000R

675 in a 12v system
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Old 13-12-2011, 16:49   #18
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Re: Heart Interface Freedom 20 and a Link 2000R

After reading the thread I realize that an easily overlooked problem could be at the root of your problem. I have a Links 2000 and once experienced the same problem. The unit quit going to float. Being a retired electrical and electronic tech, the first thing I check in any electrical problem is connections. 30 years of experience has taught me this. Look for the simple solutions first. There are often many connections in a charging system, all it takes is one with a bit more resistance due to corrosion, not being tight enough or what ever. That little problem will create a small voltage drop and fool your Links or any other charge controller. As a result the unit will never go into float mode. redo and tighten all connections between battery and charger as well as the shunt measuring system.
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Old 13-12-2011, 16:57   #19
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Re: Heart Interface Freedom 20 and a Link 2000R

No, it's in "setup". You have to enter the capacity of your battery bank. Nothing to do with corrosion. Just enter the size of your bank.
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Old 24-12-2011, 11:29   #20
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Re: Heart Interface Freedom 20 and a Link 2000R

I know it's been a while since this thread stopped, but here are my observations. We have a Link 2000 and a Freedom 15 I/C.

1. As suggested YOU really need to do a wiring diagram for your boat.

2. If you don't have the manual for the Link 2000R, go download one, here: Discontinued Power Accessories

3. Learn and understand about Function F11. You need to turn it off to use the house bank to run the Link. Default is ON for a two equal house bank setup.

4. You need to assure yourself that the parameters are set properly. Reset the Link to factory defaults and start all over again. RTFM.

5. Avoiding premature transition to float (yes, I know you don't have this problem, yet, but you will if you don't set it up right): Link-series Charging Algorithms -- The "Gotcha" Factor!

6. Agree: check all the connections. There are tons of them. The ones on the back of the Link are especially prone to failure because of the little tiny wires. I crimped each of those connections to ring terminals. Maybe your PO just tied the wires around the bolt heads. If it's electrical, the first thing to do is check the connections.

7. Be careful about disconnecting anything, and do it in the right order as specified in the manual. RTFM.

8. Avoid the dreaded "I need an electrician" syndrome. Only YOU care enough about YOUR boat to make it work. Unless you can find an electrician who comes highly and personally recommended by someone YOU trust, it's a crapshoot, and you will loose. Figure it out yourself, and come back here and ask. Many of us have this equipment and know how to use it. I know someone with a Link who just didn't want to listen to me about the "Gotcha Algorithm." Two years later I saw him again and he complained about his flat house bank. He just wouldn't listen.

Good luck.
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Old 20-05-2017, 23:27   #21
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Re: Heart Interface Freedom 20 and a Link 2000R

I have a Freedom15 + Link2000 + ARS4 currently installed on the boat. Today I acquired a Freedom20 + Link2000R + the Ideal regulator on a yard sale. All working fine.

Would there be any meaningful benefit to replacing my current setup with the upgraded version? Any views on the reliability of the Balmer ARS-4 vs. the Ideal Regulator from Heart Interface?

Anyone interested in getting the spare system in the Los Angeles area?
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Old 22-05-2017, 09:51   #22
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Talking Re: Heart Interface Freedom 20 and a Link 2000R

Wished I'd been at the yard sale. Both are hard to find items so I envy you. No point that I can think of for installing them now is you have room to store them unless you need the extra amount of volts the 2000 will give versus the 1500.
I'd kill for a back up Link 2000. Bought mine back in 2008 when the factory was discontinuing. Not really sure if they ever put out any thing as good for a replacement. Always like to be prepared for things to break. I've had to fix lots of things out in the middle of no where was we worked out way around the world. In the 8 years we've been gone, I've stocked up on most "gotta have" back up parts as well as backups for backups. Paranoia is my friend.
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