We have concentrated on power conservation rather than production. It is by far
the best bang for your buck. We have vacuum panels
on the 12V fridge, LED or fluorescent lights, (Incl. the anchor
light), a small power survivor water
maker, etc. And, our 280W of solar panels
alone, keep up nicely, about 350 days out of the year.
All of my power tools are of the low voltage battery
type, and I re-charge them with a hardwired 120W pure sine wave inverter! (Ni Cad battery
packs frequently, but not always, require
a pure sine wave. I have the inverter
switched OFF 95% of the time, and for recharging these batteries, or running a DVD
player, the 120W inverter is sufficient.
A 2,000 W inverter! Wow... unless you plan to furnish your boat like an apartment, this is excessive, just to have power tools... When one does hardwire in an inverter, a little known fact... Not only does it use power when switched on, (even with NO load), but the number of sockets energized, (even with no load on them), the more the amps drawn by the inverter goes up.
So, it's best to only turn on the inverter when you need it, but switch off ALL AC sockets except for the one that you are using at that moment. I know, I know, why would an energized socket with no load use more amps? It just does, that's why.
Especially in marine electronics
: The simpler the better, The lower power draw the better, (crimped then soldered & heat shrunk eye terminals, and well fastened) wiring
The less combining of uses the better, never scrimp on wire size or quality, and enter into a "ships procedure manual" every mechanical, plumbing
, or electrical
addition. Never rely on your memory about
: "How did I do this"?
It is always better to avoid interfacing electronics
as well as combining. Our dockside charger
is separate from the inverter, and the inverter never comes on "automatically". This way, if one unit fails, the others don't do down with them.
Hope this helps, Mark