FLA 20hr Test to 10.5v - Flooded Lead Acid

[rgleason]

Charged to full again, Tailing amps 2.7a, Let rest.

Inverter rated at 15a max
120vac Plug - Dimmer 20a - 120vac Receptacle
Plug strip with 100watt bulb
Lightolier strip with (4) 7 watt bulbs screwed on.
Adjusted Dimmer to 11.25 amps. Very sensitive.
Inverter cuts out during dimmer adjustment, may not be powerful enough.
After a number of tries requiring disconnect/reconnect of inverter to reset it, managed to adjust up to 11.25 amps.


After about 30 minutes of operation the Inverter 12vdc plug connection got too hot and I discontinued the test. Tried to solder larger wires direct to the socket but my soldering iron was too weak (dismal tool). Will need a a 12vdc socket rated at 15amps minimum.

[john61ct]

A 3-400W inverter to power some lights would be what $40 ?

Or just cobble together DC loads, they don't need to all be controlled - variable.

[rgleason]

It is a 15a rated inverter. Found an old and better 12vdc marine socket in my parts box. Will also try to find some 12vdc incandescent lights.

Also got the SG200 working. When wiring the second Deutsch Connector be aware

1. The round terminals are inserted into the small holes in the soft red insert (see photo)
2. Compare your wiring to the factory Deutsch connector.

[rgleason]

The marine socket is rated at 15a and is better but it is still warm. The SG200 Config was set to:

• Battery Type Flooded LA
• 20hr AH 225 (default is 100)
• Charged Volts 14.48 (a little higher than the default)
• Trailing Current 4.48 (default)
• Peukart No. 1.24 (as per MitTiempo post below) I suppose I should check myself.

I started the test over, recharging to 14.1v and 1.5a tailing current, or 14.7v and 2.8a tailing current. Then put an 11.25a load on it for 5 min. Then started the test.

I realize I need a simple and reasonably accurate display of both Amps and Volts on a display to use the Android, Timed photo program for record keeping.

Now I wish the SG200 had a choice to show Volts & Amps in the same display to take advantage of this program.

[rgleason]

Reporting on the test.

The inverter failed about 12 hours into the test (larger inverter needed or 12vdc loads) and at 43% SoC according to the Balmar SG200.

I had to terminate and start recharge. A Guest ChargePro 2612a 10a, charged the batteries up to 83% SoC, thereby proving that that charger was the cause of my difficulties with the previous set of batteries. (I would not purchase a Guest Charger again at this point.)

I used a Variable DC Power Supply to complete the charging, and the Balmar changed to show 100% Soc and 100% Soh.

The next day the Balmar SG200 showed 95% Soc and 100% Soh, at 13.1v. The Balmar SG-200 had Soh 90% through to the end of the test and upon reaching full charge changed the Soh. I think I like the SG200, I think it is pretty accurate.

I will set up more reliable loads for the next test. See the attached file for more detail.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by rgleason

The next day the Balmar SG200 showed 95% Soc and 100% Soh, at 13.1v. The Balmar SG-200 had Soh 90% through to the end of the test and upon reaching full charge changed the Soh. I think I like the SG200, I think it is pretty accurate.

I will set up more reliable loads for the next test. See the attached file for more detail.

SOH will keep getting more accurate provided you have not changed Charge V, Taper Current or Peukert.. For now best not to change those settings or you may not be getting accurate SOH. SOC is unaffected by these changes.

We have a Trojan 12V flooded battery on the test bench right now that is testing at 77% SOH (20h constant-current discharge @ 76F). In just three cycles the SG200 has honed in on an 81% SOH reading. I find SOH being within 4% of actual, in just three cycles, to be quite amazing for flooded batteries. With each cycle it hones in closer.

However, this level of SOH accuracy is only after I set the charged parameters back to "out of the box". Also it is important that the SG200 see some periods of rest, about 45 minutes at cycle bottom and top, without charging or discharging, to help it do its job more quickly.

[rgleason]

Mainesail,

45 minutes at cycle bottom and top, without charging or discharging, to help it do its job more quickly.

Thanks, that is good to know. I did not wait that long at the bottom.

At the bottom I did set the config settings back to the factory values that Chris gave me, Charge voltage 14.14v (factory setting)

• Charge trailing amps 2a (factory setting)
• Peukart 1.24 for T105 ok w/Chris (factory 1.12)
• Capacity 225 ah ok w/Chris (factory 100)

I had a question. I have my old T105 pair (used 2 years) that were failing. I think I have revived them with good cycling and full charges and equalization. I would like to move the SG200 over to those batteries to test them after a couple of more cycles with the new batteries. Is there anything I should do like a factory reset or something?

I need to find a slightly bigger and better self correcting load somehow. The dimmer is too sensitive and the inverter is too small.


Also for others, Chris W. has videos for inserting the round terminals into the Deutsch connectors which are worth watching.

[witzgall]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Mainesail,

Thanks, that is good to know. I did not wait that long at the bottom.

At the bottom I did set the config settings back to the factory values that Chris gave me, Charge voltage 14.14v (factory setting)

• Charge trailing amps 2a (factory setting)
• Peukart 1.24 for T105 ok w/Chris (factory 1.12)
• Capacity 225 ah ok w/Chris (factory 100)

I had a question. I have my old T105 pair (used 2 years) that were failing. I think I have revived them with good cycling and full charges and equalization. I would like to move the SG200 over to those batteries to test them after a couple of more cycles with the new batteries. Is there anything I should do like a factory reset or something?

I need to find a slightly bigger and better self correcting load somehow. The dimmer is too sensitive and the inverter is too small.


Also for others, Chris W. has videos for inserting the round terminals into the Deutsch connectors which are worth watching.

Rick,

Yes, if switching batteries, you should do a full factory reset. This is from the advanced menu on the SG200.

Chris

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

......
However, this level of SOH accuracy is only after I set the charged parameters back to "out of the box". Also it is important that the SG200 see some periods of rest, about 45 minutes at cycle bottom and top, without charging or discharging, to help it do its job more quickly.

On a fulltime cruising boat where these controlled conditions almost never occur, does it just take more cycles to get into +/-4% accuracy range?

[witzgall]

Originally Posted by Paul L

On a fulltime cruising boat where these controlled conditions almost never occur, does it just take more cycles to get into +/-4% accuracy range?

Yes, it should home in "Naturally" over multiple cycles. Where it may need help is if you are hardly cycling at all, think boat with solar in the overkill range. With as much testing as we have done, I am sure there will be use cases that pop up that we have not seen yet.

[newhaul]

I just put a 5 amp load on the discharge side of one of my spare solar controllers and hook it to the battery. Set the controller to the appropriate cut out voltage for chemistry of battery and let it run in till the voltage disconnect point is reached . Then look at the ah out reading.
Its close enough

[rgleason]

Newhaul, Doesnt the 5 amps change over time as voltage goes down? Discharge side? Are these Victrons with that oveflow feature? Please explain a little more. I get it that the controler is counting ah though.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Newhaul, Doesnt the 5 amps change over time as voltage goes down? Discharge side? Are these Victrons with that oveflow feature? Please explain a little more. I get it that the controler is counting ah though.

actually the power draw seems to be quite constant .( thermoelectric cooler)
the controller is a cheap PWM solar charge controller with ah in and out as well as amps in and out .
I have 100ah of Lfp . However with an ah counter and a constant power draw I don't think it really matters . Just get it in the 5% ballpark . ( 5 amp draw per 100ah )

[rgleason]

Well, since I would like to compare SG200 results with a good 20hr discharge test, and since, I have noticed a significant variation of the required 11.25a draw over time as voltage drops from 12.8v to 10.5v, it would be worthwhile to find or make a device which will automatically adjust the amperage of the dc load being applied, to be constant during the entire duration of the test.
I need to find this device or get advice as how to make it.

It would be best if the load applied could be scaled up for testing 200ah to 700ah battery banks.

I believe a mosfet with proper wiring of resistors and variable resistors, a big alu heat dissapation fin and fan, would be needed.

[john61ct]

Each cell needs to be load tested separately, you don't do a whole bank at once.

And no need to use the 20-hour rate with LFP, Peukert is not significant, .3C even .5C rate should be fine with robust wiring.

Believe I already suggested you look at the iCharger 4010-Duo, apparently controls discharging up to 200W or 70A, but has a steep learning curve, just now working my way through the main support thread. . .

But adjusting the load manually should be do-able, just tedious sitting there watching the ammeter, maybe checking every 20min or so accurate enough for our purposes?

A DIY project with Arduino or rPi might be fun. . .