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Old 27-10-2010, 10:26   #1
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Fisher Panda Generator

On second one. First fried itself. Now this one runs for about an hour and then shuts itself down. I am at a marina and mechanic has done just about everything there is to do. The unit runs for an hour and shuts down. Does anyone have ideas? We have done all obvious things.
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Old 27-10-2010, 10:30   #2
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What model?
I've seen several of the 4kw units vibrate the exh temp sensor open. I've also seen the fuel pumps miss a stroke and cause the engine to shut off.
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Old 27-10-2010, 10:36   #3
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I've had two - would never buy another. Last one blew a head gasket and ran away till it destructed. That was 6 months after an expensive re-build. The other one died and was replaced by the new owner.I now have a Northern Lights that is 4X the size of the FP, but it has run three years without a problem. I would stay away from all the fast running gensets - FP, Mastervolt, Mase, etc.
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Old 27-10-2010, 10:38   #4
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My generator did that and after lots of work we discovered an unknown electric lift pump between the tank and the raycor that had a small filter that was blocking intermittently.
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Old 27-10-2010, 11:03   #5
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Our FP is a 4kw. Moondancer, was yours a FP?
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Old 27-10-2010, 17:13   #6
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What is the nature of your shut-down? Like a normal shut-down as if the system has been shut off intentionally? Any panel lights remaining on? High temperature? Low Oil Pressure? If none of the foregoing, the next time it happens, quick as a bunny pull the sound shield and disconnect the oil pressure sensor lead and see if your fuel pump runs. It should be located in the fuel line between the fuel filter and the sound shield, not before the filter as previously mentioned. If the fuel filter is clogged and you're not pulling enough fuel through, it may be getting hot (the fuel acts as a coolant) and, if so, the thermal cut-out in the pump will shut it down until it cools off. This would be especially so if the pump is trying to force fuel through a clogged filter (i.e. if the pump is between the pick-up and the filter) but might also be the case if the pump is correctly positioned.

There are other alternatives but I suspect a temperature build up may be the issue, either in the fuel pump or the engine itself and, in either case, a terperature cut-off is kicking in.. Frankly, the FP 4.2KW isn't that complicated a machine. Compact yes, complicated no.

Check the foregoing and post your findings and a bit more of the details of your installation.
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Old 28-10-2010, 15:54   #7
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This is what we had done: Found a water leak in the water pump assemby, check fuel pressure, check for air in fuel hose, checked the injector valve, replaced fuel control relay. It is now running ($1,000 bill), but we have not anchored out yet to test it. Of note is that this FP is only 3 years old.
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Old 28-10-2010, 17:10   #8
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I used to work on these things for a dealer. I honestly would never own one, they're just expensive and unreliable. Keep an eye on the zinc on the generator end, when the block goes you'll bathe the whole unit in hot salt water........then the boat units really start to free flow.
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Old 28-10-2010, 18:09   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clearsky View Post
This is what we had done: Found a water leak in the water pump assemby, check fuel pressure, check for air in fuel hose, checked the injector valve, replaced fuel control relay. It is now running ($1,000 bill), but we have not anchored out yet to test it. Of note is that this FP is only 3 years old.
Your Mechanic has burned you, not FP. I'll bet $50 that the water leak was a worn lip seal in the raw water pump (due to lack of maintenance/changes as required). They are common enough and easily enough replaced that new impeller's come with the lip seal. Remove the cover plate (four wing nuts); remove the old impeller (less than a minute with a needle nose plier); remove the cam (another minute); pull the wear plate (2-3 minutes at most with a pick); pull the old lip seal (30 seconds); replace the old lip seal with a fresh one ensuring the spring ring is covered with non-petroleum base grease (1 minute-maybe two of one is a Klutz); replace wear plate (another minute or two); reinstall cam (another minute or two); lubricate wear plate, pump housing, cam and new impeller with glycerin lube included in impellor kit and install new impellor (5 minutes); install new cover plate gasket and reinstall civer plate (3-5 minutes). The foregoing doesn't add up to more than 30 minutes including a coffee-break.

Checking for air leaks in the fuel involves nothing more than pulling the black fuel hose between the fuel pump and the receptical at the sound shield and temporarily installing a clear tube; turning on the panel; pulling the oil pressure sender connector off the pressure switch (next to the oil fill fitting). That should allow the fuel pump to come on which would allow one to examine the fuel flow for bubbles. If the fuel pump dose not come on, the fuel relay is suspect. With that, one jumpers around that relay and connects the fuel pump. If the pump runs, the relay ($13.00) is bad. If the fuel pump does come on, and there are no bubbles in the fuel, button the thing up, start the motor in the usual fashion and see if it shuts down once it gets hot. If so, leave the panel on, pull the oil pressure sender connection and see if the fuel pump runs--if not, the fuel relay is bad (heat sensitive) and replace.

All of the foregoing would not take 4 hours including an hour sitting around BS'ing while one waits to see if the motor shuts itself off again once the motor and enclosure get hot. The parts for the foregoing are $29.00 for the impeller/lip seal and $13.00 for the fuel relay. Four hours for labor should not exceed $300.00. In no way should the correction cost more than $350.00 or you've been burned (by your mechanic not FP).

I have been through all of this BS with a 4.2+ FP (our's is coming up on 9 years old) and so long as one does the maintenance and takes care of the unit, they work well.

FWIW...
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Old 28-10-2010, 18:14   #10
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Originally Posted by Sailmonkey View Post
I used to work on these things for a dealer. I honestly would never own one, they're just expensive and unreliable. Keep an eye on the zinc on the generator end, when the block goes you'll bathe the whole unit in hot salt water........then the boat units really start to free flow.
Sailmonkey,
I am not sure how long it was that you did work for a dealer, but Fischer Panda has been 100% freshwater cooled for about 7 years. The older freshwater units still have the anode on the back but it never would deteriorate because we only circulate freshwater through the genset. The new units actually have this part cast into the backend.

The freshwater cooling has greatly reduced the maintenance improved reliability. All the units are now backed with a 5 year limited warranty.
Anyone with any questions feel free to contact me either by phone or email.
Jeff Till
Fischer Panda USA
www.fischerpanda.com
954-462-2800
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Old 28-10-2010, 18:30   #11
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Originally Posted by Clearsky View Post
This is what we had done: Found a water leak in the water pump assemby, check fuel pressure, check for air in fuel hose, checked the injector valve, replaced fuel control relay. It is now running ($1,000 bill), but we have not anchored out yet to test it. Of note is that this FP is only 3 years old.

Clearsky,
Please email me the name of the company that did the work on your genset and your serial number. I would like to look into your situation a little further.

My email is jtill@fischerpanda.com or you can call my office 954-462-2800.

Jeff Till
www.fischerpanda.com
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Old 28-10-2010, 18:32   #12
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The last one I actually did work on was still a 100% raw water cooled 4.2.

I'll concede that the 100% freshwater cooling would make a huge difference in reliability. I'd say that most of the problems I was working on were related to the zinc (that is no longer needed) and the general salting of the control system components inside the capsule.

On the plus side it's the only 4kw I've seen that will run a 16k btu AC and start a 12k btu AC and run them both happily.
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