Engine Gauges

[allanbranch]

My project boat has a Yanmer diesel engine but the gauges are all broken, every single one. I've googled "yanmer gauges and cluster is $500+.

Can I use "generic" gauges, key and starter on any engine? I could guess so but wanted to check.

Also if you were adding new gauges on your boat, what things would you consider? What gauges would you add? My fuel gauge doesn't work either.

Also is the boat cockpit the best placement for these gauges and key? I know it's the standard placement but do you have opinions of a different placement?

- I ask a lot of silly questions, sorry but thanks -

[HopCar]

Yes you can use gauges other than Yanmar. You need to be sure the senders match the gauges. Speaking of senders, are you sure your current senders are not what's causing your gauges to not work?

[GordMay]

Yes, you can use generric gauges, provided you match them to the senders (if reusing existing).
See Sender Values ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery...=500&userid=79
And ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...sting-645.html

[HopCar]

Gord, great minds think alike.

[Captain Bill]

Originally Posted by allanbranch

My project boat has a Yanmer diesel engine but the gauges are all broken, every single one. I've googled "yanmer gauges and cluster is $500+.

Can I use "generic" gauges, key and starter on any engine? I could guess so but wanted to check.

Also if you were adding new gauges on your boat, what things would you consider? What gauges would you add? My fuel gauge doesn't work either.

Also is the boat cockpit the best placement for these gauges and key? I know it's the standard placement but do you have opinions of a different placement?

- I ask a lot of silly questions, sorry but thanks -

if you are putting in modern electronics there is no need for gauges at all. My Yanmars lacked gauges, only had idiot lights. I've never been comfortable with this arrangement. I recently replaced my chartplotter with a Raymarine C97 which has Seatalkng which is a version of NMEA 2000. I bought a Noland Engineering RS11 engine data converter. I had to add oil pressure and water temperature sensors to my engnes, but if you have those gauges you should also have the sensors. I just used the wires for those sensors that were already in the wiring harnesses. I had to buy about $25 in wire and crimps and a seatalkng-NMEA 2000 adapter for about $30. It took me about an hour and a half to wire it in. Now I have tach, oil pressure, and water temperature for both engines displaying on my chartplotter, no mechanical gauges involved. Many other brands of chartplotters use actual NMEA 2000 connectors which actually come with the RS11. If you want to have the mechanical gauges as well it comes with instructions on how to tap into those. Each analog input can be calibrated individually to account for differences in sensors. It's calibrated via computer through a USB cable which is also supplied. I found the RS11 on line for $270.

[Doug Brown]

I would go with a mechanical gauge - they work without electricity. Stewart Warner make very nice gauges that aren't too expensive.

Mechanical oil pressure and water temperature. Amp gauge. Those 3 are all you really need.

You can install warning alarms to mechanical gauges, but it takes a little more work (especially for the water temp)

I'd put them up as high as possible in case you ever get "pooped" and fill the cockpit with water.

[Captain Bill]

One other possible thought on your gauge problem. My wiring harness has connectors for both my idiot light based panel and a gauge panel. The idiot light connections and tach are shared but the other gauge wires are not. When I installed my RS11 the sensors for water temp and oil pressure were not working. When I traced the wiring I found that the idiot light harness was plugged into the gauge harness and the gauge harness was plugged into the idiot light harness. Apparently they had been that way since the boat was built. Oddly they use the exact same connector plugs so they can be interchanged. If they are plugged like mine was the gauges would not work.

This can occur at either end of the harness extension, either at the engine side or at the panel side, as the harness extension comes in various lengths.

[Roy M]

I replaced all my Yanmar stuff with Stewart Warner gauges and senders, but I also saved the Yanmar idiot light switches to operate LED lights and piezoelectric buzzers (all different frequencies to tell the difference in the dark). The lights go above the respective gauge to reinforce the message that something is wrong. The temperature gauge uses the idiot light switch to let me know that the engine has already reached its alarm level. Also, above the temp gauge is a second light (yellow, and a different sounding buzzer) that is connected to an Aqualarm water flow switch, so that if a kelp leaf, plastic bag block the intake, or if the impeller throws a fin, the water flow stops and the separate alarm goes off, which tells me that the engine will begin to overheat in minutes. There's lots of other stuff on the panel, but I've mentioned it too many times already. This is an old picture of the panel, as well as the oil pressure sender (and the idiot light switch, just above it on the same tee) and the temp sender. I'm overhauling the cockpit, at the moment, and am changing some stuff on the panel, so newer pics will be forthcoming soon.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Doug Brown

I would go with a mechanical gauge - they work without electricity. Stewart Warner make very nice gauges that aren't too expensive.
Mechanical oil pressure and water temperature...

The mechanical SW Water temperature gauge comes with a 5 or 6 Ft capillary tube. Might (probably) not be long enough for a boat.
➥ http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...6-60/overview/

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by GordMay

The mechanical SW Water temperature gauge comes with a 5 or 6 Ft capillary tube. Might (probably) not be long enough for a boat.
➥ http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...6-60/overview/

Mechanical gauges are available from SW with capillaries up to 30 feet, but they're pretty expensive.

http://www.stewartwarnercanada.com/media/pdf/catalogs/SW-HDCatalog.pdf



82326-360 Stewart Warner DeluxeTM Water Temperature Gauge:100-2650 F, 2-1/16", Tube Length - 360", Style: DeluxeTM

[travellerw]

Originally Posted by Doug Brown

I would go with a mechanical gauge - they work without electricity. Stewart Warner make very nice gauges that aren't too expensive.

Mechanical oil pressure and water temperature. Amp gauge. Those 3 are all you really need.

You can install warning alarms to mechanical gauges, but it takes a little more work (especially for the water temp)

I'd put them up as high as possible in case you ever get "pooped" and fill the cockpit with water.

The RS11 mentioned above can work with or without mechanical gauges. Personally I prefer my gauges on my plotter. The plotter is turned on all the time and is the device I look at the most.

Its just another option the OP may not have thought of.

[allanbranch]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Yes you can use gauges other than Yanmar. You need to be sure the senders match the gauges. Speaking of senders, are you sure your current senders are not what's causing your gauges to not work?

The gauges are currently in a state of "looking like someone hit them with a hammer", the senders might be toast as well. We'll find out soon.

[allanbranch]

Originally Posted by travellerw

The RS11 mentioned above can work with or without mechanical gauges. Personally I prefer my gauges on my plotter. The plotter is turned on all the time and is the device I look at the most.

Its just another option the OP may not have thought of.

I don't have a plotter but might add one, just bought the boat.

What plotter do you recommend?

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

Mechanical gauges are available from SW with capillaries up to 30 feet, but they're pretty expensive.

82326-360 Stewart Warner DeluxeTM Water Temperature Gauge:100-2650 F, 2-1/16", Tube Length - 360", Style: DeluxeTM

Thanks for the info', Jim.

[allanbranch]

Mounting location of gauges.

Do you recommend mounting the gauges low in the cockpit around your calves or up on near the standard location for a the compass?

Feel free to correct my terminology.

So much wisdom in this forum, many thanks.