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Old 13-04-2019, 12:03   #91
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

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Originally Posted by john61ct View Post
I agree there is no "one true way", room left for other owner choices, but
is more precise than

In your setup, what is the scenario where the B is genuinely helpful?

What protection is there from running both banks down in the event B is switched accidentally or forgotten about?
Yes either a 12B or a 3 seperate system can work fine or misused.

If you already have the 12B as many do as it was the way it was done for a long time.

That doesnt mean its the only way or the best way. Particularly since ACRs have been on the scene.

If your starting from scratch I prefer 3 individual switches. But as mentioned is not idiot proof, as isnt a 12B.

To me its like parallel fuel filters using a 3 way selector valve ie Racor duo. Its fine and it works but why not just use 2 regular valves.



To me its just a question of keeping things as simple as possible by using the simplest and most common components.
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Old 13-04-2019, 13:33   #92
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

Aaargh...


What you folks are really talking about are OPTIONS and CHOICES.


FUNCTIONALLY many of them are identical.
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Old 13-04-2019, 17:36   #93
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

And Blue Sea switches, if proper ampacity is selected, really do last a long long time.
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Old 13-04-2019, 22:20   #94
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

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Originally Posted by john61ct View Post

In your setup, what is the scenario where the B is genuinely helpful?

What protection is there from running both banks down in the event B is switched accidentally or forgotten about?
I would use both to crank an engine with a weak engine battery. very rarly do you need to actually isolate or remove a bank. which is why the dual circuit blue sea switch works fine 99% of the time.

no different then leaving the parallel switch on in the 3 switch setup.
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Old 14-04-2019, 11:02   #95
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

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I would use both to crank an engine with a weak engine battery. very rarly do you need to actually isolate or remove a bank. which is why the dual circuit blue sea switch works fine 99% of the time.

no different then leaving the parallel switch on in the 3 switch setup.
Well yes you might get away with it.

But what about when-

The switch has been left in B and both are flat (I know that would never happen right). Or
The Start batt has an internal short, you dont want to be dragging down your good House batts, or
The Start is dead and the House is marginal.The starter batt will pull the House bank down the little it has left.

This is where the 3 seperate On/Off switch configuration has it over a 12B switch.

But many manufacturers have done, still are using 12B switches.

Im not saying they are bad. But IMHO is there a better alternative, yes ie seperate Bank switches, with ACRs or FET Combiners.

But practicaly speaking just adding an ACR on the charging side and a bit of self education will have you way ahead of the average blissfully unaware boater.
It is arguable if going to the expense and trouble to change from a 12B to a seperate switch setup is worthwhile.

Your boat, your call.
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Old 16-04-2019, 01:49   #96
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

The last post from QXopa is absolutely spot-on, except, I suggest, for his second-last sentence. I , personally, disagree that it's "arguable" about going to the expense and trouble of a 2 separate switch set-up v a combined O12B switch. I believe, and having done it, there's no argument at all - it's well worth doing! (My coolbox eats amps (about 4 - 5 amps when running), 6 hours on anchor with it on can very seriously compromise the volts available to start the engine.). Separate batteries, with the house battery electrically isolated from the starter battery, is the answer. For sailing boats, a 10 - hour night passage with lights on, instruments running, etc, will give a similar issue.
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Old 16-04-2019, 02:47   #97
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

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The last post from QXopa is absolutely spot-on, except, I suggest, for his second-last sentence. I , personally, disagree that it's "arguable" about going to the expense and trouble of a 2 separate switch set-up v a combined O12B switch. I believe, and having done it, there's no argument at all - it's well worth doing! (My coolbox eats amps (about 4 - 5 amps when running), 6 hours on anchor with it on can very seriously compromise the volts available to start the engine.). Separate batteries, with the house battery electrically isolated from the starter battery, is the answer. For sailing boats, a 10 - hour night passage with lights on, instruments running, etc, will give a similar issue.
Ok guilty, you caught me being too diplomatic.
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Old 16-04-2019, 02:59   #98
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Re: Eliminating the 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch

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Originally Posted by parkstone bay View Post
The last post from QXopa is absolutely spot-on, except, I suggest, for his second-last sentence. I , personally, disagree that it's "arguable" about going to the expense and trouble of a 2 separate switch set-up v a combined O12B switch. I believe, and having done it, there's no argument at all - it's well worth doing! (My coolbox eats amps (about 4 - 5 amps when running), 6 hours on anchor with it on can very seriously compromise the volts available to start the engine.). Separate batteries, with the house battery electrically isolated from the starter battery, is the answer. For sailing boats, a 10 - hour night passage with lights on, instruments running, etc, will give a similar issue.
Ok guilty, you caught me being 'diplomatic'.
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