Electrical Connection Advice, Please

[Adamante]

Originally Posted by MarkJ

Just where does one find these good things in these islands? (Retorical question... )

If you can't get any of the proper gizmos, remove one or two inches of insulation from the thick wire, wrap the #10 wire around the bare copper a few times, crimp tightly with pliers and solder the joint. You'll need to use a soldering gun, a soldering iron won't have enough oomph. Heat the connection well and apply rosin core solder. Watch the insulation for signs of melting or bubbling. If it does, wrap the insulation with wet strips of cloth on both sides of the connection. Once you have a nice tight joint with the solder all shiny, wrap the whole thing with electrical tape, preferably self-vulcanizing.

It'll look like a fat ugly lump on the wire, but it should be OK until you can redo it properly in the future (like when you are selling the boat and the surveyor has a fit over a non-ABYC compliant wiring practice).

[goboatingnow]

I would put crimp terminals on and use a simple bus bar, a brass bolt is enough,

Dave

[GordMay]

Split Bolt connectors should be available at an electrical supply house, or good hardware store (not a marine product).

There are any number of good Self Amalgamating Silicone Rubber Tapes, such as, 3M’s “Scotch 70", "Rescue Tape", & etc.

Overwrap the Silicone tape with a standard PVC electrical tape (3M’s “33" or “88".

If possible, pad the split bolt with a Putty Tape (3M’s “Skotchfill, “Coax-Seal" etc), prior to wrapping Silicone then PVC tapes.

Apply tapes with enough stretch to conform to the object you are wrapping, usually reducing the width of the stretched tape to about 5/8 to 3/4 of it’s original width. On the last few turns reduce the stretch tension until it is zero at the last turn or two, to prevent flagging. Use a scissors to cut the tape end square, as a knife or tearing will add stretch to the last lap, and cause it to un-wrap.

Taping Tips:

When wrapping with any of the non-adhesive (self-fusing, amalgamating, vulcanizing) conformable rubber tapes, it may help to apply with the outside in. The inside (tacky) side of the tape is turned to lay on the outside of the wrap, keeping the roll closer to the work.

Electrical tapes are generally applied under in successive “half laps”, and under tension, so that the tape elongates (stretches) to the point where it’s width is about ½ to 3/4 of it’s initial dimension - then completed with a final lap which is not stretched at all. This prevents “flagging” (winding back on itself). Rubber tapes are often over-coated with a protective layer of regular vinyl tape.

This tensioning technique is not always suitable for co-axial cables, especially foam cores, which have little compressive strength. The tension can cause dielectric breakdown of the cable.

When taping vertically, the final (top) layer should start at the bottom and tape uphill, creating a rain-shedding lapstrake (shingle lap) effect.

When taping screwed component co-ax connectors, tape in the direction (clockwise seen from cable end) of tightening the threaded joint.

There are several specifications to compare when selecting a particular electrical tape product, including:
Thickness
Tensile Strength
Elongation
Heat Resistance (operating temperature) & Thermal Dissipation
UV Resistance
Dielectric Strength
Linerless rubber tapes are slightly more expensive; but MUCH easier to use than lined rubber tapes.

[ssanzone]

this may be a dumb question...

is there a reason you cant run the 10 gauge from the end of the 4 gauge (pencil thick) back to the midpoint (where you are discussing 't-ing' off)?

i agree this can be done and it isnt a huge deal.

all of the aforementioned solutions are viable just keep in mind 'that which is exposed, corrodes' by removing the insulation to T in the 10 gauge you risk introducing corrosion. given the 4 gauge wire is from your solar panels, i would not be too excited about degrading the integrity of that main line.

all that said... i trust you have a valid reason for doing this and i would not consider the risk unmanageable.

i have used these many times and have had great (but not 100%) success with them.

DryConn Waterproof Direct Bury Lug by King Innovation

gl,

-steve

[motion30]

Mark
a trick i have used, use a short piece of the correct size copper tubing for a butt connector, sleeve the small wire with the prober size butt connector or another smaller section of copper tube Crimp the whole mess just like a standard butt connector and shrink wrap it You should easily find a short piece of 3/8"" and 1/4;; tubing even in the third world

[GordMay]

The "DryConn" connector is sized for wire ranges #14 - #10 AWG maximum.

A properly taped Split Bolt will be fine.

[smurphny]

Originally Posted by GordMay

What you’re looking for is a “split bolt connector”.

➥ Burndy SERVIT Split Bolt Connectors, Types KS & KS-3

➥Thomas & Betts | Search Engine

These lugs are available from any electrical supply or even a Home Depot. They are commonly used for ground wires on pools, etc. Coat with Scotchkote and wrap with rubber elec. tape and it'll be good for 100 yrs. The Scotchkote is a product that is wonderful on any connection, especially anything in marine environment.

[Adamante]

Originally Posted by MarkJ

(I can't solder in that position)

Just noticed this qualifier at the very end... never mind the soldering instructions then.

I would just wrap the #10 wire around the thick wire, crimp with pliers, tape it well and cinch it up with a couple of plastic wire ties. More tape on top to keep out UV.

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by ssanzone

all that said... i trust you have a valid reason for doing this and i would not consider the risk unmanageable.


-steve

Hi Steve, and all who've responded.
I have taken everyones thoughts onboard.

Yeah the valid reason is the heavy cable is already in place and waterproof. This connection is in a lazarette where it needs to be waterproof too for high humidity and maybe some water ingress as is wont by a lazarette.

I am still learning about electricity so asking for that reason.

The big cable is a lovely loooooong bit of very thick stuff with an outer plastic cover and then the 2 internal plastic covers then the nice juicy wire. So it should be good for the long run from the panels to the Solar Booster and then to the Battery bank. Thus cutting it is perhaps reducing its value. Also if cut the butt connectors need to be those small battery size ones and then I need a special crimping tool.

So doing it the simple way could indeed be effective.

I knew there must be some manufactured solution, like Gord has shown.

Again, its the difference between living in a large city like Sydney, or anywhere USA where you can jump in the car and find precisely what you're looking for.

Whereas the reality on a cruising boat is I'm in the middle of nowhere always seeming to have 2 different size cables/wires etc to join. Why isn't all wire a standard size, thin and easy worked and in pretty colours that need no special tools?

"Cruising is fixing your boat in exotic locations" should have an adjunct: "without the proper tools, parts, knowledge, transport, time nor money!"


Mark
PS and tomorrow the dunny with prolly block.....................

[David M]

I'm sure I will get criticized for saying this, but since you are in a jam and cannot find the proper mechanical connector being located in the outer boonies, I would strip back the insulation and run a bunch of wraps around the stripped wire and then run electrical tape around it. When you get to a port with all the electrical connectors and wire your heart desires, then undo the temporary connection and do the proper crimped mechanical connections connected to a terminal block or terminal post.

[MarkJ]

I also wonder how in the hell can most cruisers cruise without being able to pose questions and get advice like on this forum?

Everything would just be trial and <Bang!> error... or I'd become a drunk at the bar.

On second thoughts...............


Mark

[motion30]

Originally Posted by MarkJ

I also wonder how in the hell can most cruisers cruise without being able to pose questions and get advice like on this forum?

Everything would just be trial and <Bang!> error... or I'd become a drunk at the bar.

On second thoughts...............


Mark

Mark
we all possess superior knowage of all systems, specialty tools and proper materials, buy that I mean duct tape wire ties and alumnimum foil But really, stuff breaks?

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by motion30

Mark
we all possess superior knowage of all systems, specialty tools and proper materials, buy that I mean duct tape wire ties and alumnimum foil But really, stuff breaks?

ROTFL. I thought so.


Nah, nuffin breaks. Its all just slowly corrodes till it starts intermitantly failing... when you most need it.

[Don1500]

Remember BLUE wires are always used for bomb timers to show which one to cut!

[perchance]

Originally Posted by motion30

Mark
a trick i have used, use a short piece of the correct size copper tubing for a butt connector, sleeve the small wire with the prober size butt connector or another smaller section of copper tube Crimp the whole mess just like a standard butt connector and shrink wrap it You should easily find a short piece of 3/8"" and 1/4;; tubing even in the third world

A man after me own heart. Now that is some sailorly ingenuity