Electric Connectivity Point Sealant.

[deepthought]

I have a 48v + and - power connection point that can get water splashed to it. I would seal it and have them isolated so that water wont short it.

Is there any kind of sealant that I should use? or would like 3m 5200 work ?

Thanks

[Kettlewell]

Not sure what type of connection this is, but I have effectively sealed off electrical connectors by slathering with silicone sealant and then wrapping with silicone tape. Shrink tubing might be another possibility. I wouldn't use 5200 as it will harden and you will not be able to remove it.

[David M]

A picture would help to better describe what it is you are doing.

[deepthought]

Here is photo I need to seal the connection there.

Please ignore the numbers and text on photo they are just part numbers.

I want to seal the 2 connectors.

Thanks

[David M]

If there is no sort of splash shield available I would consider something like a few coats of liquid electrical tape. First though coat the terminals in Tef-Gel or silicon grease, tighten down the terminals and wipe off all the excess so the liquid electrical tape has a clean surface to stick to. This is just in case water ever gets past the liquid electrical tape, this way you won't end up with a corroded terminal which can cause resistance or failure.

[GrowleyMonster]

A second vote for liquid electrical tape. It is easily removed and easily re-applied and is basically some very handy stuff to have around the boat.

Do you have electric propulsion?

Even with the connectors well coated with the vinyl, I would try to rig some sort of splash guard.

[deepthought]

Yes electric propulsion. The last set of drives the water seemed to splash through the splash guard and they fried.

I do have liquid electrical tape. Will try to locate some silicon grease or Tef-Gel.

So I shouldnt bother with putting some kind of silicon sealant?

I shouldnt need to undo them anytime in the foreseeable future as there is a connecter a couple feet up if I have to remove them.

Thanks

[CharlieJ]

I would replace the open ring terminals with closed end ring terminals and then use high quality 3:1 adhesive lined heat shrink over the barrel of the ring terminal and the adjoining conductor. Use CRC's Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor (very similar, if not identical, to the USN's Cosmolene) on the actual metal to metal connection.

[GrowleyMonster]

Originally Posted by deepthought

Yes electric propulsion. The last set of drives the water seemed to splash through the splash guard and they fried.

I do have liquid electrical tape. Will try to locate some silicon grease or Tef-Gel.

So I shouldnt bother with putting some kind of silicon sealant?

I shouldnt need to undo them anytime in the foreseeable future as there is a connecter a couple feet up if I have to remove them.

Thanks

That explains the 48 volts. I am considering replacing my Atomic 4 with an ME0913 and a Sevcon controller. Anyway, where is the water coming from? I can't imagine how enough water could be splashing around in my engine room to short out the terminals. Are the terminals you are talking about on the controller, or the motor? If it is the controller, maybe a different mounting location would be sensible?

The liquid electrical tape is brushed on and makes a good seal. For best results, I would re-apply a second coat after the first one dries. Silicone would work, too, but harder to get a nice neat application. But really, that stuff all needs to be in a dry location, if possible.

[deepthought]

@CharlieJ: do you have a picture of a closed ring terminal so I know what you mean.

@GrowleyMonster: I am on a catamaran, my engine previously was a old Mercedes OM636 which drove 2 hydraulic engines in each hull. However the engine failed and I didnt care to mess with fixing it because of expenses and its history.

I dropped it and was planing to put in something similar to what you mentioned however I ended up with getting a great deal on 2x torqeedo 4.0 engines. So I just mounted them. Mainly due to time and place etc.. which is why I got them.

I still have the two props and shafts in the hulls and with shafts and all. And I am also planing something similar. I will be going I think with different motors and havent decided on controllers yet. But now that I am closer to an area where I can get stuff easier and not in a rush to move I will start that project soon.

The plans been to use the 2 torqeedo drives as temp units and then either store them for backups or use them in some other way dinghy or small speed boat or some other experimental ideas I have.

@everyone
Thanks for the help I will try the liquid electrical tape and if it looks good then stay with it if I dont feel safe then I will silicone over the top or maybe just do both.

Thanks again.

[Lake-Effect]

No electrical connection should be designed to be splashed on, so the proper solution is to enclose the connection completely in some kind of impervious housing. Assuming your photo is of the Torqueedo innards, doesn't the housing have some type of gland or seal around the wires where they enter?

If the Torqueedo's are truly temporary, then liquid electrical tape, or grease will buy you some time, but won't perform as well as a proper housing.

[deepthought]

There is more or less a splash guard. A housing of sorts but it is in no way sealed its just held on with 2 little screws.

It is not sealed. I can probably seal it on with silicone. However I would hat if some how water got in and couldnt get out. Which is why I want to just seal the connection the best I can.

I have attached the pdf page with the breakdown you can see the cover.

[Lake-Effect]

I see what you mean. I guess in normal application those connections wouldn't get splashed much.

Still you want to make as much effort as possible to keep those connections dry. Liquid electrical tape would protect the surface, but unless you really goop up the whole connection, water would simply wick into the joint. Better than nothing.

A coating of marine grease would also protect the connection.

A silly idea - get a dishwashing glove, make small holes in two fingertips for the wires, poke the wires through, make the connection then try to tailor the glove to cover the connection and deflect splashes.

Good luck.

[CharlieJ]

IMO, I find the CRC product that I mentioned earlier much better than the liquid tape.

Here is a link to closed end ring terminals: Tinned Copper Crimp Lugs

[Kettlewell]

If I understand it correctly, the Torqueedos are mounted on your sterns like outboards, so IMHO it will not be a seaworthy installation. In my experience using gasoline powered outboards on a cat there are times when the entire engine will be under green water--submerged--so your powerhead has to be able to withstand that. There is a reason that gasoline outboards breath through a water trap at the top of the motor cover, which in turn is clamped down on a rubber seal around the base. Not entirely waterproof, but it does keep the green water out. Those connections and whatever is under the cover have to be more than just "splash proof" unless you are only using them on protected waters on calm days.