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Old 09-09-2010, 14:09   #16
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Originally Posted by Shrew View Post
I replaced all the Halogen bulbs with these:

LED Bulbs -12 vt. - Swego.com

They use the g4 pins as well and was as simple as replacing a bulb. When I asked the manufacturer, they indicated there was no need for voltage regulation, resistors etc. Am I overlooking something, or is that only needed for 24v systems? Everything on my boat is 12v.
The cumulative resistance of the SMEDs is enough so nothing more is needed
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Old 09-09-2010, 14:12   #17
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Brand?
Source?
Cost?
I couldnt quote the website as it was down for maintenence this morning, i will have another go
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Old 09-09-2010, 14:25   #18
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Are you happy with the color of the light? They claim warm white. Is it? i don't want a bluish color led

I was extremely concerned about the color of the light. I replaced a few lights in the past with LED's and ended up with extremely bright and extremely blue lights. The replacement bulbs I installed (see link in my original post) are very warm. I even left a halogen in place next to an LED to compare. The warmth is identical to a halogen. They are slightly brighter than the halogen's, but not much. We love them and are very happy. I would recommend them to anyone.
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Old 09-09-2010, 14:33   #19
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They claim 120 lumens. I checked with them & got a fast reply that the 120 lumens are about the same as a 10 watt halogen. Not bad at all. thanks for the lead.
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Old 09-09-2010, 14:40   #20
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The ones im using are 7 or 9 or 12 SMED's mounted on a board with G4 side pins to fit in the recessed fittings
Hey Anjou! Where did you find those nice looking fixtures?
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Old 09-09-2010, 21:05   #21
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If one wants, go to hwww.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=804 and buy the Prewired G4 Ultra 9xHPSMD 12-24VDC - White. All you have to do is hook up the wires and your off and running. They are bright white and consume 1.9 watts per unit. I go to home depot and get their package of 5 halogen lights and gutt them and stick the chip in refelector with a dab of silicone rubber and reassemble, then mount them. All you need is a switch. I get these at http://www.oznium.com/rocker-switch If anyone is interested. The lights and switch are trouble proof and fool proof. Great buy.
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Old 10-09-2010, 04:31   #22
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If one wants, go to hwww.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=804 and buy the Prewired G4 Ultra 9xHPSMD 12-24VDC - White.
WD
comparable to 3 to 5 watts of light. That isn't much. Cost $16

The swego light posted here compares to a 10 watt halogen in light output. Cost $21
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Old 10-09-2010, 06:08   #23
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No need for a voltage regulator. LED's draw about 3 volts. Wire 4 of them in series and run them on 12 volt. Works fine. If you want more light, the wire several sets of 4 in parallel.

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Old 10-09-2010, 06:34   #24
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No need for a voltage regulator. LED's draw about 3 volts. Wire 4 of them in series and run them on 12 volt. Works fine. If you want more light, the wire several sets of 4 in parallel.

George
This simple approach does work to a point, but you get much brighter and consistent light output and/or much longer LED life with regulator.
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:01   #25
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The following thread may be of intrest with respect to this subject: LED Lighting Option
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:10   #26
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This simple approach does work to a point, but you get much brighter and consistent light output and/or much longer LED life with regulator.
Also would they blow if you were doing a bit of battery equalisation at over 16v and forgot to turn them off?
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:30   #27
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Also would they blow if you were doing a bit of battery equalisation at over 16v and forgot to turn them off?
It depends. You can have a string of LED's and allow them to be within specification for the maximum voltage you will have, say 16V. They will have a normal lifespan, but will be very dull most of the time. Or arrange the LED,s so they will be within specification for lower voltage. They will be brighter, but will have a short life.
A regulator, or driver allows the best of both worlds. The LED is driven correctly irrespective of the battery voltage.
The drivers are readily available and unless the application is satisfactory with very dull illumination (a compass light for example) at least a simple regulator is a much better solution..
If buying a complete “globe” look for an LED which can accept a range of voltages (say 10-30v). This indicates there is at least a rudimentary regulator on the circuit board.
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Old 10-09-2010, 13:05   #28
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And heres one I made earlier. About 10 months ago actually, before I found out the difference between chips and LEDs
It worked but gave off hardly any useful light

It was something to do on a dark night in the marina, with no English speaking tv to watch.
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Old 10-09-2010, 14:50   #29
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A more efficient dimmer circuit for those technically inclined.
Scroll down for the 555 timer circuit.

http://www.reuk.co.uk/print.php?arti...er-Circuit.htm
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Old 10-09-2010, 15:59   #30
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They claim 120 lumens
If these are the same ones I was looking at at swergo, I will raise the BS flag on the 120 lumens unless I actually see the meter reading and the distance it was taken at. These are the same size and wattage chip as what I posted on and it only has 1 more chip for a total of 50 to 60 additional lumens plus it costs 6 dollars more. But,....even if you did over drive them to get the wattage up(if that is possible) to where you really get 120 lumens, doesn't that defeat the whole purpose of saving amperage from the batteries?
WD
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